Jack Panzeca

Hi Vivian,
I am happy to be on the front row for your new build. I can't wait to see the modifications, especially the scroll work. Great work so far. Good luck and happy building.

I just happen to have both saws and the Micro Mark feather board set and extended fence.  
 
This is the older Micro Mark (Proxxon) saw with the extended fence and feather board.
 

 
This one is the Byrnes saw with the Micro Mark accessories and as you can see the slot is larger on the Byrnes saw.  You could probably solve the problem pretty easily by replacing the aluminum piece with a custom wood part.  The opening in the extended fence is not wide enough to fit over the Byrnes fence.
 

Hi Ulises,
This is a great looking project! You are off to a wonderful fast start. A beautiful ship and a really large model. Good luck on your new build.

Well, she is complete in plenty of time for the Admiral's birthday.  The Admiral is happy and as we all know when the Admiral is happy everyone is happy.    
 
The build was 9 months of fun and learning.  Completion is very rewarding.
 
I would like to thank everyone who helped with the build especially Von_Kossa.  His log is what inspired me to build the Oseberg in the first place and his research kept me on the right track.   Also, thanks to Vivian Galad (we are watching your Oseberg) and all those who followed the build, your encouragement was necessary and wonderful.
 
I probably would not be involved in this hobby at all without the MSW community.  There was not much information out there the first time I tried years ago.  Now, whatever you need just ask.  Thanks for the help.
 

 
Time to move forward.  I will now attempt to catch up with Grant and Mobbsie with our first shot at the dark side "Bomb Vessel Granado 1742".

Von_Kossa, Fam, Vivian Galad and Mobbsie all helped greatly with the rigging research.  Thanks to all.  The bottom line is that it is mostly guesswork as very little historical data exists.  Von_Kossa sent a link that he got from the museum in Oslo which showed a sheave at the top of the mast.  Since my new lathe had just arrived I thought it was a great opportunity to practice.
 

 
I got so excited about playing with my new toy that I forgot to take pictures.  I used a dowel that I had laying around to turn a tube and placed it over the top of the mast.  The picture below shows the stub of the tube and the tube itself on the mast.
 

 
The tube and mast was then slotted and I cut a wafer off a different dowel and used it as the wheel.  A piece of black annealed wire was used as the pin.
 

 
I painted the sail using 3M blue masking tape and the Tulip fabric paint mentioned earlier.  I was amazed that the first attempt was a keeper.  The next step was to sew the rope all the way around the sail.  
 

 

 
One of the reasons that I chose the Oseberg is that it has only one sail and minimal rigging.  It is a chore to me.  I tried to get my daughter to sew the rope but her timetable was much longer than I was willing to wait so I had to do it myself.  None the less, all of the rope used is  from Chuck Passaro"s Syren Ship Model Company.  It is beautiful stuff, I have never seen anything like it.  Chuck did a demonstration at the NRG conference to teach us to make our own rope.  It had the opposite effect on me.  I never, ever want to do make rope myself.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here is the current status.  Rigging is underway.  
 

 

Hi Mobbsie,  Thanks for stopping by.  I am really looking forward to the next adventure.  Thanks to you and Grant for letting me play.   
 
Thanks also to the "likes" they are always appreciated.
 
Time for a small update.  I have been working on the fiddly bits. The kit supplied parts are plywood or plastic so they needed to be cloned into a more natural material.  The cleats, blocks, spar and oar holders were all scratched from oak.
 

 
The plywood cradle was remade out of Mahogany.
 

 
The rudder is mounted loosely until I blacken the brass pin head, The cleats and oar holders are mounted.
 

 
I milled slots into bits of left over oar handle to act as keepers for the rudder suspension leather piece.  I have not completely figured out how to terminate them.  You can see them closer up in the second picture.
 

 
The paint tests are finally over.  I had some trouble finding the correct paint that would not creep under the masking tape.  My oldest daughter paints a lot of fabric and both she and the Admiral recommended a brand named Tulip.  It is the stripe on the left and the obvious choice.
 

 
The sail painting and rigging are next but I am heading to St Louis for the NRG meeting so they must wait.  
 
Thanks for looking.

The mast is oak and I tapered it using power drill and sandpaper method.  This is a very simple mast and took no time at all, I did make a huge mess.
 
The shields will be next.  The kit version is (as usual) laser cut plywood.  
 

 
I felt the need to improve on that. The choices are to build the shields out of planks or cut the disks and score to look like planks.  Chuck Passaro demonstrated a technique on his HMS Winchelsea Quarter Gallery columns that I thought was really interesting so I decided to try it on the shields.  There are 30 of them and I have a pile of mahogany given to me by a friend that is close to the correct thickness and can be quickly dimensioned by the thickness sander.  I would have taken me a week on the old Preac but the new Byrnes will handle it in no time.
 
I used a .016 kerf blade raised 1/64 above the table.  I spaced the cuts 5mm apart and they lined up nicely.
 

 
I cobbled together a mini mill using a Vanda-Lay drill press with a "Z" axis fine adjustment attachment, a Proxxon X-Y table and a toy rotary table that I got years ago with a Unimat 1.
 

 
I set it up on the rotary table and cut out the shield, using a 3mm end mill.  The mahogany is soft enough to use a smaller mill but that was the smallest I had on hand.  
 

 
I did not dimension the strips for the test because I wanted to prove to myself that it would work before I spent the time.  Now all I have to do is score and cut 30 more.  I will score in long strips before I cut shield size pieces.  
 
Thirty identical things taxes me enough but the thought of over 100 gun ports and canon carriages for a ship of the line seems beyond my concentration level.  I guess the maximum ship for me is a frigate.

The first thing that I have to say is that Santa showed up at my house (he got his dates confused) and left a new saw.  The Byrne's saw is not a saw.  It is a Work of Art.  I was in the construction business for more than 40 years and around cutting devices for longer than that.  Nothing in my experience prepared me for this saw.  Things that I have struggled with (long rips for starters) are now routine.  My previous saw was an old Micro Mark/Proxxon and there is no comparison.  In case I was not clear I love this saw.
 
I cut the the caps for the bulkheads, bent them and glued them into place.  The curves are difficult to hold and needed some creative clamping.  The wine corks came in handy and the wine was handy too.
 

 
I ripped about half the planks and cut them to length in record time they laid in nicely.  Since it is not a good idea to use power tools when you are tired I will leave the rest of the deck planking for another day.   
 

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

I stripped off the back layer of the inside piece of scrollwork with a scalpel blade so that it would lay flat with the rest of the scrollwork.
 
  
 
There is a spacer at the top of the scrollwork where it pinches together.  It is sanded down and glued to the top of the structure.  There is also a small spacer needed where the scrollwork meets.
 

 
Another small piece cut to fit at the bottom of the scroll.  Also, a full hull length spacer at the top of the hull planking to give the last two vertical planks a place to land.  Obechi was specified but it would not take the bend without cracking so I used basswood.   I soaked it and bent it with a curling iron.
 

 
Added the last two vertical planks.
 

Hi Marc,
 
I just went through your build log, nice job.  I will bet that you are happy to be almost finished with your busy season here.
I noticed your avatar changed to a spring hat.  Nice.
 
Years ago I visited Amsterdam and was busily buying wooden shoes to take home to family and friends.  I happened upon this rather special wooden shoe and decided that I had to have it.
 

 
The pennant and the top of the mast had broken off in shipment and I did not notice until the packing had been disposed of.  That resulted in some serious dumpster diving until it was recovered.  
 
Great work on the yacht.

Well, she is complete in plenty of time for the Admiral's birthday.  The Admiral is happy and as we all know when the Admiral is happy everyone is happy.    
 
The build was 9 months of fun and learning.  Completion is very rewarding.
 
I would like to thank everyone who helped with the build especially Von_Kossa.  His log is what inspired me to build the Oseberg in the first place and his research kept me on the right track.   Also, thanks to Vivian Galad (we are watching your Oseberg) and all those who followed the build, your encouragement was necessary and wonderful.
 
I probably would not be involved in this hobby at all without the MSW community.  There was not much information out there the first time I tried years ago.  Now, whatever you need just ask.  Thanks for the help.
 

 
Time to move forward.  I will now attempt to catch up with Grant and Mobbsie with our first shot at the dark side "Bomb Vessel Granado 1742".

Well, she is complete in plenty of time for the Admiral's birthday.  The Admiral is happy and as we all know when the Admiral is happy everyone is happy.    
 
The build was 9 months of fun and learning.  Completion is very rewarding.
 
I would like to thank everyone who helped with the build especially Von_Kossa.  His log is what inspired me to build the Oseberg in the first place and his research kept me on the right track.   Also, thanks to Vivian Galad (we are watching your Oseberg) and all those who followed the build, your encouragement was necessary and wonderful.
 
I probably would not be involved in this hobby at all without the MSW community.  There was not much information out there the first time I tried years ago.  Now, whatever you need just ask.  Thanks for the help.
 

 
Time to move forward.  I will now attempt to catch up with Grant and Mobbsie with our first shot at the dark side "Bomb Vessel Granado 1742".

Well, she is complete in plenty of time for the Admiral's birthday.  The Admiral is happy and as we all know when the Admiral is happy everyone is happy.    
 
The build was 9 months of fun and learning.  Completion is very rewarding.
 
I would like to thank everyone who helped with the build especially Von_Kossa.  His log is what inspired me to build the Oseberg in the first place and his research kept me on the right track.   Also, thanks to Vivian Galad (we are watching your Oseberg) and all those who followed the build, your encouragement was necessary and wonderful.
 
I probably would not be involved in this hobby at all without the MSW community.  There was not much information out there the first time I tried years ago.  Now, whatever you need just ask.  Thanks for the help.
 

 
Time to move forward.  I will now attempt to catch up with Grant and Mobbsie with our first shot at the dark side "Bomb Vessel Granado 1742".

Well, she is complete in plenty of time for the Admiral's birthday.  The Admiral is happy and as we all know when the Admiral is happy everyone is happy.    
 
The build was 9 months of fun and learning.  Completion is very rewarding.
 
I would like to thank everyone who helped with the build especially Von_Kossa.  His log is what inspired me to build the Oseberg in the first place and his research kept me on the right track.   Also, thanks to Vivian Galad (we are watching your Oseberg) and all those who followed the build, your encouragement was necessary and wonderful.
 
I probably would not be involved in this hobby at all without the MSW community.  There was not much information out there the first time I tried years ago.  Now, whatever you need just ask.  Thanks for the help.
 

 
Time to move forward.  I will now attempt to catch up with Grant and Mobbsie with our first shot at the dark side "Bomb Vessel Granado 1742".

Von_Kossa, Fam, Vivian Galad and Mobbsie all helped greatly with the rigging research.  Thanks to all.  The bottom line is that it is mostly guesswork as very little historical data exists.  Von_Kossa sent a link that he got from the museum in Oslo which showed a sheave at the top of the mast.  Since my new lathe had just arrived I thought it was a great opportunity to practice.
 

 
I got so excited about playing with my new toy that I forgot to take pictures.  I used a dowel that I had laying around to turn a tube and placed it over the top of the mast.  The picture below shows the stub of the tube and the tube itself on the mast.
 

 
The tube and mast was then slotted and I cut a wafer off a different dowel and used it as the wheel.  A piece of black annealed wire was used as the pin.
 

 
I painted the sail using 3M blue masking tape and the Tulip fabric paint mentioned earlier.  I was amazed that the first attempt was a keeper.  The next step was to sew the rope all the way around the sail.  
 

 

 
One of the reasons that I chose the Oseberg is that it has only one sail and minimal rigging.  It is a chore to me.  I tried to get my daughter to sew the rope but her timetable was much longer than I was willing to wait so I had to do it myself.  None the less, all of the rope used is  from Chuck Passaro"s Syren Ship Model Company.  It is beautiful stuff, I have never seen anything like it.  Chuck did a demonstration at the NRG conference to teach us to make our own rope.  It had the opposite effect on me.  I never, ever want to do make rope myself.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here is the current status.  Rigging is underway.  
 

 

Hi Mobbsie,  Thanks for stopping by.  I am really looking forward to the next adventure.  Thanks to you and Grant for letting me play.   
 
Thanks also to the "likes" they are always appreciated.
 
Time for a small update.  I have been working on the fiddly bits. The kit supplied parts are plywood or plastic so they needed to be cloned into a more natural material.  The cleats, blocks, spar and oar holders were all scratched from oak.
 

 
The plywood cradle was remade out of Mahogany.
 

 
The rudder is mounted loosely until I blacken the brass pin head, The cleats and oar holders are mounted.
 

 
I milled slots into bits of left over oar handle to act as keepers for the rudder suspension leather piece.  I have not completely figured out how to terminate them.  You can see them closer up in the second picture.
 

 
The paint tests are finally over.  I had some trouble finding the correct paint that would not creep under the masking tape.  My oldest daughter paints a lot of fabric and both she and the Admiral recommended a brand named Tulip.  It is the stripe on the left and the obvious choice.
 

 
The sail painting and rigging are next but I am heading to St Louis for the NRG meeting so they must wait.  
 
Thanks for looking.

Hi Mobbsie,
 
I have been working on the tiny bits and I am down to the sail and rigging.  I will spend a little quality time with my daughter today while she sews the sail for me.  Anyway, I am almost finished and will have an update soon.  
 
Your timing is perfect.  I noticed Grant's comment about starting a group build of the Bomb Vessel Granado cross section with you and I asked if I could join in.  If it's alright with you too I am in!  
 
I have been searching for my own entry into the "dark side" and this looks like a great place to start and having a couple of mates to work along with engenders confidence.  
 
Talk to you soon.

Hi Brian C,
Thanks for dropping in and the birthday wish.  It was the big 70!  I don't feel any older, yeah right.  I really like your "Bismarck".
 
Hey David B,
Thanks for the support.  The Dremel table has been very useful.  You mentioned your Foredom.  I just recently got my hands on one and the quality improvement over other rotary tools is amazing.
 
Hello Cristian and Matti,
Thank you for visiting and the kind words.  I have really enjoyed the build and the build log and the support of the members here is wonderful.
 
Thanks to all the "likes" you are much appreciated.

Hi Bill,
 
Thanks for dropping by and the kind words.
 
The table is just a Dremel that I have had for many years.  It is attached to a 2x6 and the Dremel tool hangs off the edge of the bench.  The 2x6 is heavy enough to keep it in place while it is in use.  The fence is adjustable and removable.  I use it mostly for routing and sanding.  Vanda-Lay  Industries have a really nice aluminum one as well.
 

 

 

Here is the oar update, I have been working a little slower lately because a little consulting work has gotten in the way of hobby time and the Oseberg is a birthday present for the Admiral and her birthday is not until late December.  I don't want to finish it too early because then I will have to come up with another present.
 
The first step was to cut oak strips 2x12.5 mm.  I cut five strips and taped them together and copied the shape of the kit supplied paddle portion, then cut them into individual pieces.  Originally I intended to cut them out with a scroll saw but since there was so little material to remove I just used a 1 inch belt sander.  I cut the notch where the dowel joins the paddle with the scroll saw and filed it out to the correct size. 
 

 
For the round portion of the oar I cut 3x3 mm square dowel and routed off all four corners and got them close to round and finished them off in a drill motor with hand held sandpaper.  The routing was tricky since the dowel is so small so I rigged a feather board and guide to keep my fingers away from the blade.
 

 
Then I sanded one end flat to fit into the paddle and the other end reduced the circumference to make it into a handle.  The last step was to glue them together and finish the fine sanding.  There were a lot of steps and a LOT of sanding in this process.  30 oars stained and ready to row.
 

 
 

The ship has come to a nice milestone so I decided to take some studio shots for this update.
 

 
This is what the set looks like.  I pulled out the big Spiderlite soft boxes for the shoot.
 

I have been working on the shields.  Finding the right center ornament has been very time consuming.  I settled on cone head Hungarian hob nails.  The shield on the left is supplied in the kit.  The hob nails are next in the image below.  I cut the head off and ground it close to flat.  The construction of the new shields is documented earlier in the log.  To finish them off all that was done is to ease the edges, glue the nail head onto the center and odd a coat of wipe on poly without stain.  I did tests and the poly alone worked best on the mahogany.  The hob nails were right size and crudeness for a ninth century shield.
 

 
I finished 8 of them and here is how they will look on the ship.
 

H
 
Hi Von_Kossa,
 
Sorry about the oops!  I have had my share of mistakes and re-dos, I just fix it and forget it as soon as possible.
 
I was not planning to use nails on the shields.  I really like the look of your shields (post #23 and 25 of your log).  What did you use for the center ornament?
 
The nail head diameter for the plank nails is 1.62 mm.  They could be a little smaller but they really look good the way they are.
 
To blacken brass I use a product called Blacken It from Micro Mark.  It is similar to the acid mix used to blacken guns.  Take a look at this link http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it/.
 
I got the spacing of the plank nails from two places.  I have used two books and numerous internet locations to research the Oseberg.  The books are:
 

 
I got 18 cm from the second book here and I got 8 inches (about 20 cm) from a web site.  I was unable to find it again.  I did a test to see if the 20 cm or if 40 cm looked better at this scale and the results are below.
 

 

 
Everyone who looked at the test agreed that the closer spacing looked best.  I did increase the spacing from 8 mm to 10 mm just to compromise a little and save a few holes.  The references in both the book and the website were not Oseberg specific but general to shipbuilding of the time and place.  You may be right about the Oseberg.
 
Please let me know if I can help.

This update has been a long time in development.  Since the last update I finished the second 720 nails, planked the deck and stained the deck and cavities at the stem and stern.  The second set of nails went more quickly as usually happens after all that practice.
 
The kit plans call for the planking to be in line from bulkhead to bulkhead but the book I have been using calls for the planks to be staggered.
 

 
I had cut and tapered the planks back months ago and packaged them up to hold until I finished the nails.  Well the "best laid plans" rule applies here.  I picked them up in order and put rubber bands around them with nice little labels.  The rubber bands in the shipyard are at least 10 years old and a large number of them gave up and the planks got jumbled in the plastic bag.  Dee Dee: this photo is for you.  You knew I was going the muck this up.     It took longer to complete the filler planks at the end of each row than it did to straighten out my pile of unlabeled planks.
 

 
I set up the center line and glued one than two planks down the center and then worked my way out to the edges.  The image below has the stain on the left and just pre stain on the right.  The pre stain sure shows off the grain.  I love oak.  The curved and wedged planks at the mast foot came from Von_Kossa and looks really great.  Thanks Pal.
 

 
I still have some cleanup to do on the stain (glue spots and such) and then I will add some wipe on poly.  The mast and foot are just loosely placed.
 

 
Oars, shields, rigging and sail are next.
 
Thanks for looking in.  This sure is fun.