Jump to content

Oseberg by Vivian Galad - Amati - 1:50 - modified kit

Recommended Posts

So, as I said, I´ll begin some new projects while still building the Chinese Junk. This is the first of two, the Osberg by Amati.


Before any sawdust comes through, I have to thank my friend Jack Panzeca for his gift. Yep, he was a sweety and sent me this kit he wouldn´t build for he already was building the Billing´s Oseberg - As I was always telling how nice it was and let it clear I would build one if I had, Jack surprised me with offering this one. Jack, here I am, building the ship - Thank you. :)^_^^_^


A review of the box - In comparison to the other 2 ships I built till now, the Amati Oseberg kit is a little sparse on material. Truth be told, that´s because the ship itself isn´t that material consumer - viking ships are fantastic ships considering the small use of wood and their sailing capabilities. The false keel and bulkheads are laser cut, as the wood for hull planking - at first I thought it strange for they´re strangely shaped, but that's explainable by the planking of a so characteristic hull. Some pictures follow:






Fittings may be a problem to those who, as I do, like the wood everywhere. Shields are metal cast, oars are plastic as the mast step. All of those are already marked on my plans as scratchbuild fittings.




I have to say, though, that Amati Oseberg isn´t really the Oseberg. I measured the ship´s keell and middle bulkead to find she doesn´t fit on the true Oseberg dimensions - False keel should have 43,16cm, and it has 43,9cm, width should be 5,20cm, it´s 5,7cm. Also, Amati´s bring a strange dragon head instead of the engraved details Oseberg has, as a central oar holder that shouldn´t be there. My plans on bashing/modifying goes for removing the central oar holder, engraving the stem/stern as the Oseberg (well, the closest I can get, at least), adding the big barrel the museum ship exposes and chests before the oar holes. I´ll scratch the oars, shields, mast step and rudder.


I begun by building a stand. It´s a 6mm mdf board with two 6mm planks held together by butterfly bolts. I would install metal trails for a bulkead aligner, but changed my mind. Instead, I traced lines on the board and made a 90° angled piece gluing 2 mdf pieces (sanded and measured).




(To be continued)




Link to comment
Share on other sites

False keel was attached to the stand, first picture shows the before first modification:




Second picture shows the after, as I cut the tail off. As I intend on building an engraved cover, that part had to get out of the way.




I waxed the false keel, then and started placing the bulkheads. They were glued and fixed to the block I made for 90° aligning. I took pictures only after they were already glued and I could verify they were rightly fixed.










As the ship seems too fragile at this point, I decided to place beams between the bulkeads to assure they wouldn´t bend while planking.




And that´s it for now. Hope to be posting more pictures soon. :D :D

Edited by Vivian Galad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, BrianC. ^_^


Brian, I should´ve better explained that. The false keel will be apparent. As with my other ships, I like to age/darken them - before planking I darkened the false keel with 2 coats of bittumen wax, that way I won't risk damaging the thin planking with a latter waxing. The planks will receive a coat of bittumen wax too and all the hull will be later varnished to attain an even darker hue. I could use a stain, but till now the bittumen wax for darkening wood and giving that old look is the best I´ve tested.


Jack, thank you. I´m already drawing the pattern for the scroll work. Scale is my main problem - it´ll push my skills to the limit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Matti, the glues (be it CA or wood glue/white glue) usually stain the waxed wood. CA is worse, cause it can leave a white stain over the waxed wood - white/wood glue leaves a translucid spot. The wax weakens the CA bond, too, but other glues keep their properties. Usually I use a lot of CA, but not that much on waxed surfaces. tyvm for your visit. ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Vivian, I'm on board for this one as well.


I agree totally with your idea of darkening/staining prior to assembly.  Another benefit is that you don't have to worry so much about a little excess glue leaving a light spot because it's already pretty much the final color before you glue.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Grant!


Pops, right you are. That is something I learned from the Junk, while I darkened the deck in advance, against the after staining of the Caravel. It´s easier to work with the spots that way, cause the natural wood gets really marked by that spots - which we perceive only after staining, even when you had already sanded the wood. And welcome to my new build! ^_^


Mark, thank you for the encouragement. Feel free as the room is large :P

Edited by Vivian Galad
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Vivian!


I really like every one of your build choices - you have good taste!! :) For the detailed carvings you will be doing, you might look into the Dremel bits and techniques that bird carvers use.


Way to go Jack!


Edited to correct my grammar in case a certain English teacher finds her way to this thread! :)

Edited by Salty Sea Dog
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cap´n Magee, thank you :blush: . Happy u didn´t miss the boat this time - just take a seat!


Jack, it´s some good advice and I´ll look into it for sure, thanks. I was already thinking in use the dremel (I did some tests in the past engraving wood with a dremel ^_^ ) - don´t worry about the teachers, if they come we teach them! :P :P


Hans, it´s a good choice for a build - viking ships are great, elegant and simple, yet a conqueror of the seas. If I can be of any help, I´ll be glad. And no stealing, only sharing in here. TY!


Schnu, feel free to follow, ask, suggest any thing u seem fit. Thank u for visiting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello Vivian,

Seems like I rarely get in on the beginning of a build. Jack P. did such a beautiful job on his Oseberg. I look forward to seeing how you treat this build. I love the "antiquing" application, something I want to pursue with all my future builds. Look forward to learning from you, even brought my own chair :)!


Sincere Regards,



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, Sam, that´s a part of it. The other is that work is taking too much time from me and I can´t get to the shipyard as I would like. But she´s growing, my Oseberg version. ;)


Hey Bill, be welcome to my log, take some refreshments and feel free to point anything u want - at least regarding the build :P :P . Sometimes I think u guys put too much faith on me, lol!! But I´ll share everything I learn in my journey.


Carl, be welcome too. Glad u joined. ^_^


Gaetan, that´s a great build and made me think in hollowing at least a segment of my ship. Thank you for sharing the pictures.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here I go again - well, a little morose in comparison to the other builds, but steady!


I´m still planking the hull and finding it a bit harder than my two other buildings - I think that´s for the one layer planking. Till now my ships were double planked and that makes the work really easier - glue´s being some problem, too, as the white glue don´t fix the way I want and clamps don´t hold it as planned (well, as I planned, at least) - So I´m working with CA and white glue on planking; don´t know how it will hold as the years go by, but, I´ll follow that way. Also, it´s hard to align the planks to acquire symmetry.










Seeing now, by the camera´s eye, maybe I´ll start it all again. At naked eye it seems more symmetrical. Last picture shows a point where I broke the plank and had to fix. At this moment i´m thinking in stripping the hull planks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replank?  I thought they looked pretty good from over here.   I wonder if the Vikings worried about 'perfect planking'???  :)  ;)  


Ok.. to be serious... alcohol for the white glue, and acetone for the CA. I'm assuming that you didn't mix them on the same frame?  It's takes a bit of soaking to apply to the joint, If you can, pack the joint with a bit of paper towel soaked in the appropriate solvent.   I'd do one joint at a time starting at one end. 


Good luck and don't rush the removal. Let the solvent do the work. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hola Mija,

Sometimes you have to get the planks to cooperate with when they don't want to. What I find useful is a fabric steamer. Place the planks on the fabric steamer for a few minutes and gently bend the planks with your fingers before putting them on the frames. I hope this helps.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Everything is on hold now, I´m on moving process (for the better, as I´ll get a bigger room for my shipyard :D ). I found the problem to be the 4th row, so, I´ll just remove 2/3 planks and rebuild. I really appreciate all the tips (first plank already removed using acetone and alcohol - it worked).


Anytime soon I´ll be posting again - ty all of u, guys. ^_^ ^_^ ^_^

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...