Captain Al

Thank you DS, these pix will be helpful. What I'm concluding is that almost everyone deviates from the less than adequate AL plans. And that is what I will have to do. The most confusing thing in the plans is
where it shows 2 sheaves (part 281s) at the far outboard end of the sprit, attached to the sprit (seemingly) by a copper ring 8mm in diameter. I've never seen a "sheave" attached this way (I don't see how it can be done and still have the sheave spin -- aren't sheaves normally on a axle?). And I've not come across anyone elses build that put them on. So perhaps this is just another misprinted part number.
 
Looks like I will put as many blocks on as are obvious or which I see on other builds. Then I'll just have to wait to rig the thing to see if they're in the right places and if I have too many or not enough. From there I can decide if I want to jury rig or try to be accurate.
 
Thanks again for you help.

McKay clearly shows the ship to be copper plated on p. 55. That being said, I've looked at logs of probably 10 Bounty builds and I think I recall only one being plated.
 
I tip my hat to anyone who has completed this build in less than a year. I'm now going on 18 months now and still have not even built my masts. In fact I'm just working on the bowsprit and its giving me fits as to what fittings go where. I am really disappointed in AL's plans and photos at this stage. They leave you in the dark just when you need photos the most. I've searched all the Bounty logs I can on this site and others and cannot come up with any detailed closeups of the bowsprit. If anyone reading this has done a Bounty sprit and is willing to take some and post them, I'd be forever in debted to them.

Problem for me too.  I'd like to hear from more experience builders, but here's how I tackled it.  Holding the  excess line sort of taut -- at least straight out on the deck-- I put the eraser of a brand new pencil next to the thread and began twirling the pencil around.  The eraser head is porous enough to grab the thread and after one or two twirls it holds on itself.  So I wrap up the line and then I carefully push the coil to the bottom of the eraser and off the pencil entirely.  Now, have some watered down PVA glue ready at hand and apply a liberal amount with a artists paintbrush to the coil.  The wetness will hold the coil in place, and when it dries, the PVA will be unseen -- use white pva and it won't alter the color of the thread at all.  Hope this helps.  Like I said, I'm new to this and I just keep trying different techniques til something works.

Got all the pieces to the bowsprit glued together and the gammoning wrapped on tight. This is how it looks on the ship although like I said before, I am going to wait til its time to permanently attach it. I wasn't sure how I'd glue the three parts (bowsprit steeve, sprit and cap) of the structure together but when I was fiddling with it and thought I had it all aligned perfectly (blocks to the top and bottom, bees sticking out to the sides like wings, and the cap sitting upright), I decided that I would use CA glue in the joints. So that's what I did -- holding the whole thing in place with one hand I just dripped some CA into the holes in the cap and in the joint of the saddle and the sprit. The saddle had already been glued to the steeve. I was pretty pleased until I realized my alignment was slightly off and the little hole at the tip of the sprit was not sitting right at zero degrees but was twisted a bit. Nothing I could do about it it. I'm not one for taking things apart, so I'll wait and see if that misalignment screws up the placement of those additional parts at the tip and then the rigging that runs through them. I have a feeling I can get away with this -- other than visually.

Got all the pieces to the bowsprit glued together and the gammoning wrapped on tight. This is how it looks on the ship although like I said before, I am going to wait til its time to permanently attach it. I wasn't sure how I'd glue the three parts (bowsprit steeve, sprit and cap) of the structure together but when I was fiddling with it and thought I had it all aligned perfectly (blocks to the top and bottom, bees sticking out to the sides like wings, and the cap sitting upright), I decided that I would use CA glue in the joints. So that's what I did -- holding the whole thing in place with one hand I just dripped some CA into the holes in the cap and in the joint of the saddle and the sprit. The saddle had already been glued to the steeve. I was pretty pleased until I realized my alignment was slightly off and the little hole at the tip of the sprit was not sitting right at zero degrees but was twisted a bit. Nothing I could do about it it. I'm not one for taking things apart, so I'll wait and see if that misalignment screws up the placement of those additional parts at the tip and then the rigging that runs through them. I have a feeling I can get away with this -- other than visually.

Well, I made the choice to use the hearts instead of the deadeyes and I pretty much completed the bowsprit this weekend. Except for the blocks and sheaves at the far forward tip of the sprit. I'm OK with my work but can't say it is my best effort. I still struggle with tying on beckets to blocks. You could say this build has been one of experimenting with one technique after another and still not finding one that comes up to the standards of more accomplished modelers. But its working. I also am never sure I'm using the right size or color thread for the size or type of block being installed. This bowsprit is a good example of using whatever size and color thread I happen to have in front of me and which I can work with. Take a look at the pix. You'll probably agree its a pot pouri of everything that came in the kit's supplies. Next build I plan to purchase the right sizes and colors independent of what a kit supplies -- especially if its an A.L. kit.
 
Note on the pix that the gammoning is still loose and not trimmed. My plan is to wrap it tightly and then paint it with watered down PVA glue. Learned that from Danny (among other things). Once complete I am going to shelve the whole bowsprit until such time that I can't proceed without it installed. I don't want the additional overhang getting in my way when I need to turn the ship on the bench.

Well, I made the choice to use the hearts instead of the deadeyes and I pretty much completed the bowsprit this weekend. Except for the blocks and sheaves at the far forward tip of the sprit. I'm OK with my work but can't say it is my best effort. I still struggle with tying on beckets to blocks. You could say this build has been one of experimenting with one technique after another and still not finding one that comes up to the standards of more accomplished modelers. But its working. I also am never sure I'm using the right size or color thread for the size or type of block being installed. This bowsprit is a good example of using whatever size and color thread I happen to have in front of me and which I can work with. Take a look at the pix. You'll probably agree its a pot pouri of everything that came in the kit's supplies. Next build I plan to purchase the right sizes and colors independent of what a kit supplies -- especially if its an A.L. kit.
 
Note on the pix that the gammoning is still loose and not trimmed. My plan is to wrap it tightly and then paint it with watered down PVA glue. Learned that from Danny (among other things). Once complete I am going to shelve the whole bowsprit until such time that I can't proceed without it installed. I don't want the additional overhang getting in my way when I need to turn the ship on the bench.

Bryan, good recovery and perserverence. I don't know if I'd have had the determination to do that. I've made lots of mistakes along the way and just as many work arounds to avoid removing pieces. Now as for those beams not fitting really well...of course mine didn't fit well either and I attribute that to the frame positions or maybe even the cut of the frames. The beams themselves were probably not at fault. Anyway, not to be a downer but you may very well encounter issues when you lay that top deck. You can refer to the early pages of my log to see what I went through. I had to shim up the beams in a lot of places to remove the spongy effect, and shim and/or file down the frame notches. You'll find a way to make that darn thing sit well and a liberal amount of glue on the beams and underside of the false deck will hold it down well. When you are ready to lay the false deck down, mark the edges where it will lay across the beams and then draw a line across the width of the deck at that point. Then you can apply a line of glue across the line so it matches up with the beam. I always like to glue two surfaces if possible. I have to laugh when I think of how I weighted down the deck as it was drying. I'd also advise not to put too much furniture and stuff down below until all is well with the infrastructure. You never know where and how you are going to have to cut or file or maneuver something and stuff on the second deck can get in the way. I noticed you've put in the stove already and you're considering coal bins (I used dried redwood twigs to whittle up some "logs" and put them in wood bins next to the stove). I would wait on all that stuff. Just my opinion for what its worth.

Sorry about those beams Bryan but glad you could find the thumb plane. I'll take it step further and note how I actually did it. I had 1.5 x 5 mm walnut strips to work with -- as I assume you do as well. After doing a bit of math and measureing to determine how much to taper (I tried to keep the taper to 2.5mm or less but failed in that a lot and had to taper much more), I used a metal ruler to draw the line from one end of the strip to the other. Note that after the first six planks of basswood which I did with full 630mm planks, I started cutting my planks or strakes into thirds (mostly). So sometimes, depending on where the taper would begin, the line of taper on a plank would not necessarily be from a full 5mm down to say 3mm. The start of the plank would of course have to match the end of the previously laid plank so the taper line might go from say 4mm down to 3. Working with the smaller planks made many things easier. I doubt I could have done much with longer ones. Anyway, once the line was drawn I clamped the plank in between two wooden rulers (available btw for free at Home Depot as yard sticks and which make excellent wood for lots of things), with the scribe line parallel to the rulers. The rulers are of course to stiffen the plank as you plane it. Then I clamped the whole thing into a vise and started planing. I got where I could taper a plank nicely in 10 minutes including all steps. Compared to half hour when I was trying to cut the taper with an Exacto blade held stiff up against the metal ruler. '
 
Practice doing drop planks on the ends of scrap planks. Its fun after you get the hang of it and you'll need them. I used both a saw and snips to get my angles cut but the saw made more accurate cuts.

Hey Boyd/Brian, I just wanted to comment that I also neglected to notch those beams down below for the pipes but in a way I'm glad I did. It could be tricky locating the exact spot to put the notches before running the pipes down through the top deck and seeing where they are going to hit the beams. I used a long round file to cut out the notches. Painstaking but effective.
 
Also, there is a lot of good African walnut left on the templates after removing cut out pieces. You can easily find pieces that can be used in place of 5x5 material in a pinch -- with a bit of sanding of course.
 
Which brings to mind something I may have noted long ago. If you haven't already planked, the all time best tool I've bought for this work is a little thumb plane made by Buck and sold in Home Depot for $8. For tapering the edge of a plank, nothing worked better.

Well I took off the 4 deadeyes (which AL has labeled 500s) 2 on the sides and 2 hanging below. I didn't like the way they hung so low anyway -- too much becket even though it matched the plans. I'm about to start working on replacing these with the 501 hearts as CP has suggested and which look quite good in the pix he's added above. But then I re-read JeffE's comments above and hope Jeff can confirm what CP and I seem to be doing. Jeff, you refer to the 5 "500" blocks (I need to find the fifth one) which are for the bobstays and the bowsprit shrouds. Because they are labeled 500, is the reason I first put on the 4mm deadeyes. But now we're thinking that these should be hearts -- which if I interpret AL's parts list correctly, would be 501s. Jeff, do you think that these are deadeyes or hearts? I think AL simply mislabeled them as 500 when they should have had a 501 designation.
 
As an aside, at this point I have over 90 small (4mm) deadeye blocks, about 75 large deadeyes (5mm), and 14 hearts. CP, you only got 6 hearts in your kit? Is it a new kit? Mine was mfr'd almost 10 years ago. Things are getting sloppy at AL. Or, does the small number of Hearts you have maybe make you think that these hearts actually are 500 (small) deadeyes? I'm buying into the mislabeling and AL shorting you a bunch of hearts. Just from the pix you posted I can't see how that rigging would connect to deadeyes, and there is no purpose to deadeyes for the functions that Jeff indicates.
 
I have some other work to do anyway, so I'm going to wait another day to see what you guys think before tying on hearts that might need to be deadeyes; or vice versa.
 
Boyd, I hope this helps you when you get there. Its really been the most perplexing issue so far in this build.

Very cool pix.
Thanks a lot CP.

Sorry everyone for bringing up that quirk in the program's editor. I just now noticed that no matter how bad it looks when I'm tying the reply, when it actually posts the carriage returns (and split words) have been corrected. Isn't it nice when you discover something technical actually works right.

Thank you to all who have recently found my log and commented. Boyd, I never get email notification from MSW even though I have asked for it. I will check out my personal inbox more often. Again, thanks for the interest. Note another quirk here -- for some reason this program editor puts carriage returns in all the wrong places. Maybe there is a way to adjust that but since it just started a couple weeks ago I doubt its something that I can make right.
 
CP, thank you for the offer of more detailed pix and info. Right now I'm good (I think) but I know I will need help with the masts. Can I avail myself of your personal email (on this site I mean) when the time
comes?
 
You've all been an inspiration (what with all the flattery) for me to get back and spend some real time at the bench, so hopefully I'll begin filling this log with some progress reports instead of questions.

Speaking of CA glues....I totally agree that no two glues are the same.  It must be slight differences in the formulas used.  The real surprise for me is that the Dollar Store and elsewhere sells CA for $1.00 for the same quantity that my hobby shop or Home Depot sells it for $5.00.  And its just as good (maybe it won't be after its been on the boat for a couple years??).  My best discovery for using CA when planking the hull was Loctite gel.  Its quite thick so it allows precise placement and doesn't run.  It allows for repositioning for at least 10-15 seconds.  And it holds really well.  What I would do when putting down a plank (or strake) was to apply PVA glue to the edges and at the spots where the plank would contact the frames (always coating both surfaces).  But I would leave bare the first, middle and last frame point.  When all was ready I'd put a drop of this Loctite gel on the first frame and press down the plank up to the middle.  Then a drop of gel in the middle, and on to the last frame.  This often was sufficient to hold tight the planks, but usually I'd add some clamps.  This technique also allowed me to use much longer strips than otherwise since I would have more flexibility in the strip to insert the second and third drops of CA.

I'm back at it after a bit of a lapse -- I put all the half pounders on the ship and I think the top deck is mostly finished.  I'm now working on (struggling with) the bowsprit.  I want to build the two parts mostly off the boat and then connect them via the cap, saddle and gammoning as I place them on the ship.  I've got the tapering done as well as the tenoning of the ends and I've slotted and inserted a sheave at the inboard end of the sprit.  The trickiest part was angling the holes in the cap so that it would sit perpendicular to the water line and not angled upward as the bowsprit itself is.  I wish the mfr had made the holes (precut part) properly angled.  Instead I had to file and sand down their 90 degree holes to make it work right.  As I learned from another build log (think it was Vulture) it would have been easier and better looking to just make a new piece and drill the holes properly to begin with.  I may still do it over but right now that's the least of my worries.
 
HELP!  I've never been great at reading plans and reconciling two views (top down v. side) of the same thing.  This bowsprit is driving me nuts trying to figure out where to put blocks on it.  Some fairly obvious while others I just can't visualize.  I wonder if someone can lend a hand based on the photos I'm attaching.  The one's I'm really not sure of are the 3 #500 blocks shown on the side view (in the area where the steeve and sprit overlap) compared to the two shown on the overhead view (one of which is left unlabeled as its a symmetrical part).  I'm not sure how many of these #500 blocks there really are.  The two that are most forward in the side view are not shown on the overhead view -- so I would think they hang straight down (and are blocked from view by the sprit itself).  But then, what about the third (aft most) 500 in the side view?  Is that the same block as one of the 500s in the overhead view?  It looks like its hung below the steeve (like the other two) and if so wouldn't be seen in the overhead view.  But if it is one of the two shown on the OH view, wouldn't it be shown attached to the side of the steeve and not underneath it?  So now I'm thinking that there are 3 500s hung below the steeve (as in the side view) and also TWO MORE  attached to the sides of the steeve (lashed immediately fwd of the forward most cleats).  For a total of 5 of these #500s.  Can someone please help me on this? 
 
Moving forward, I'm having trouble figuring out how many and where the #342 blocks go.  The side view shows one on the top of the sprit and one at the aft end of the bees of bowsprit (hereinafter referred to as just the bees)  I would then say that the port bee would also have the same block just blocked from view.  But then I wonder why these two, attached to the bees, aren't shown on the OH view.  The OH view shows two more 342s but they seem to be attached to the sides of the cap and not to the bees.  I've thought that maybe the sides of the sprit are not symmetrical and there is only one 342 on the starboard bee but not on the port bee.  But when I look closely at the side view the 342 is attached to the bees while in OH view the unlabeled 342 is attached to the aft face of the cap.  So is there 5 342s or just 4?  And where exactly do they go -- on the bees or on the cap?  Or maybe the drawings are bad?  Wouldn't be the first time.
 

Well as the saying goes, a picture says a 1000 words. Can't thank you enough Dan. I sure wish AL could have just included a couple close up pix of the bowsprit. I don't know for sure which way I'll go yet but I will make that decision in the morning. I lean toward the closed hearts.
 
Is the idea behind either that it was a way to tighten up (tune) the rigging? I couldn't understand what the purpose of the deadeyes would be until I see your picture and see that each deadeye on the sprit will be paired with a deadeye on end of the line. Same for the hearts. Is this more or less the 18th century version of turnbuckles?
 
Thanks again Dan for your continued interest.

Captain AI, recently I realized that instead of using deadeyes (# 500) you should place closed hearts (4), two in-line and two on the sides.I hope it's not late to change this.

 
CP, I actually think I discovered that as well. I need to go look at the ship.
 
No, I did use deadeyes. I could change them if its going to make a real big difference in how its rigged -- which I would think it will. How did you conclude that part 500 is a heart and not a deadeye? That was an issue I couldn't resolve for a long time. I finally decided that AL was using the terms "clump block" and "deadeye" for the same thing. I think I used the German word under the illustration to reach that conclusion; something like Klampfenblocken (lol). Anyway, this is something I will now need to review and decide on what to do. BTW, when you say "closed hearts" you are referring to those blocks that are shaped like a triangle and have one hole in the center. I don't find the term "hearts" anywhere in AL's stuff. They refer to these as "dead blocks" as opposed to "deadeyes." I thought these were part 501 and have put them on where the layout indicates 501s should go.
 
If it helps you at all, I received some good feedback on these bowsprit blocks when I posted a topic called something like "How to Make a block lie parallel v. perpendicular." under Rigging forum. It should be there still. I haven't checked that thread out for a long time.

Sorry everyone for bringing up that quirk in the program's editor. I just now noticed that no matter how bad it looks when I'm tying the reply, when it actually posts the carriage returns (and split words) have been corrected. Isn't it nice when you discover something technical actually works right.

I'm back at it after a bit of a lapse -- I put all the half pounders on the ship and I think the top deck is mostly finished.  I'm now working on (struggling with) the bowsprit.  I want to build the two parts mostly off the boat and then connect them via the cap, saddle and gammoning as I place them on the ship.  I've got the tapering done as well as the tenoning of the ends and I've slotted and inserted a sheave at the inboard end of the sprit.  The trickiest part was angling the holes in the cap so that it would sit perpendicular to the water line and not angled upward as the bowsprit itself is.  I wish the mfr had made the holes (precut part) properly angled.  Instead I had to file and sand down their 90 degree holes to make it work right.  As I learned from another build log (think it was Vulture) it would have been easier and better looking to just make a new piece and drill the holes properly to begin with.  I may still do it over but right now that's the least of my worries.
 
HELP!  I've never been great at reading plans and reconciling two views (top down v. side) of the same thing.  This bowsprit is driving me nuts trying to figure out where to put blocks on it.  Some fairly obvious while others I just can't visualize.  I wonder if someone can lend a hand based on the photos I'm attaching.  The one's I'm really not sure of are the 3 #500 blocks shown on the side view (in the area where the steeve and sprit overlap) compared to the two shown on the overhead view (one of which is left unlabeled as its a symmetrical part).  I'm not sure how many of these #500 blocks there really are.  The two that are most forward in the side view are not shown on the overhead view -- so I would think they hang straight down (and are blocked from view by the sprit itself).  But then, what about the third (aft most) 500 in the side view?  Is that the same block as one of the 500s in the overhead view?  It looks like its hung below the steeve (like the other two) and if so wouldn't be seen in the overhead view.  But if it is one of the two shown on the OH view, wouldn't it be shown attached to the side of the steeve and not underneath it?  So now I'm thinking that there are 3 500s hung below the steeve (as in the side view) and also TWO MORE  attached to the sides of the steeve (lashed immediately fwd of the forward most cleats).  For a total of 5 of these #500s.  Can someone please help me on this? 
 
Moving forward, I'm having trouble figuring out how many and where the #342 blocks go.  The side view shows one on the top of the sprit and one at the aft end of the bees of bowsprit (hereinafter referred to as just the bees)  I would then say that the port bee would also have the same block just blocked from view.  But then I wonder why these two, attached to the bees, aren't shown on the OH view.  The OH view shows two more 342s but they seem to be attached to the sides of the cap and not to the bees.  I've thought that maybe the sides of the sprit are not symmetrical and there is only one 342 on the starboard bee but not on the port bee.  But when I look closely at the side view the 342 is attached to the bees while in OH view the unlabeled 342 is attached to the aft face of the cap.  So is there 5 342s or just 4?  And where exactly do they go -- on the bees or on the cap?  Or maybe the drawings are bad?  Wouldn't be the first time.
 

I'm back at it after a bit of a lapse -- I put all the half pounders on the ship and I think the top deck is mostly finished.  I'm now working on (struggling with) the bowsprit.  I want to build the two parts mostly off the boat and then connect them via the cap, saddle and gammoning as I place them on the ship.  I've got the tapering done as well as the tenoning of the ends and I've slotted and inserted a sheave at the inboard end of the sprit.  The trickiest part was angling the holes in the cap so that it would sit perpendicular to the water line and not angled upward as the bowsprit itself is.  I wish the mfr had made the holes (precut part) properly angled.  Instead I had to file and sand down their 90 degree holes to make it work right.  As I learned from another build log (think it was Vulture) it would have been easier and better looking to just make a new piece and drill the holes properly to begin with.  I may still do it over but right now that's the least of my worries.
 
HELP!  I've never been great at reading plans and reconciling two views (top down v. side) of the same thing.  This bowsprit is driving me nuts trying to figure out where to put blocks on it.  Some fairly obvious while others I just can't visualize.  I wonder if someone can lend a hand based on the photos I'm attaching.  The one's I'm really not sure of are the 3 #500 blocks shown on the side view (in the area where the steeve and sprit overlap) compared to the two shown on the overhead view (one of which is left unlabeled as its a symmetrical part).  I'm not sure how many of these #500 blocks there really are.  The two that are most forward in the side view are not shown on the overhead view -- so I would think they hang straight down (and are blocked from view by the sprit itself).  But then, what about the third (aft most) 500 in the side view?  Is that the same block as one of the 500s in the overhead view?  It looks like its hung below the steeve (like the other two) and if so wouldn't be seen in the overhead view.  But if it is one of the two shown on the OH view, wouldn't it be shown attached to the side of the steeve and not underneath it?  So now I'm thinking that there are 3 500s hung below the steeve (as in the side view) and also TWO MORE  attached to the sides of the steeve (lashed immediately fwd of the forward most cleats).  For a total of 5 of these #500s.  Can someone please help me on this? 
 
Moving forward, I'm having trouble figuring out how many and where the #342 blocks go.  The side view shows one on the top of the sprit and one at the aft end of the bees of bowsprit (hereinafter referred to as just the bees)  I would then say that the port bee would also have the same block just blocked from view.  But then I wonder why these two, attached to the bees, aren't shown on the OH view.  The OH view shows two more 342s but they seem to be attached to the sides of the cap and not to the bees.  I've thought that maybe the sides of the sprit are not symmetrical and there is only one 342 on the starboard bee but not on the port bee.  But when I look closely at the side view the 342 is attached to the bees while in OH view the unlabeled 342 is attached to the aft face of the cap.  So is there 5 342s or just 4?  And where exactly do they go -- on the bees or on the cap?  Or maybe the drawings are bad?  Wouldn't be the first time.
 

Unbelievably beautiful detail work Boyd. This sets the bar mighty high for all us builders. That little
lathe of yours got some duty. But the planning and craftsmanship are truly brilliant.

Whats up with you Boyd?  Lazy or just busy?  I found LADons log in which you posted several comments and got to wondering where you were on your build.  I'm determined to get back to the bench today.  I've been off for sometime dealing with issues.  I can't decide whether to begin work on the bowsprit or start on the launch.  Launch would be easier from the standpoint of understanding the plans and doing things I've already done elsewhere.  But the bowsprit is really next in line.  Thank you for your remarks in LAD's re. my "tips".  I never really think that I am tipping others off to a good thing; just making commentary on how I managed to get through a tough situation.

I just discovered your this build log and will follow it closely. I've got a build log of this same Bounty kit going. I'm into it for the same reason you are -- a gift from someone. I too was impressed by the
plans, instructions and pictures....until they petered out just when you start needing explanations and close up pictures the most. I think AL is Spanish, not Italian but I may be wrong. The translations are not as good as you'd imagine; lots of ambiguous descriptions of the various kinds of blocks. Tip: refer to the plans which show pictures of the blocks and then get a Spanish-English dictionary. This will help distinguish between double and single and hearts and clump blocks. But all in all it is a good kit and you should have fun. Most of my problems initially had to do with a warped false keel and frames that did not want to line up fair. The single planking is challenging but doable. As a complete novice, if I can make it look good so can you. Finally, I hope you have a lot of display room. This model ends up taking lots of space.

Darn it Dan....I thought there was no cheating goin on around here.  As usual, simple seems to be best.  Thanks a ton.
 
I'm thinking of a way to make a continuous loop out of thread without actually splicing it to itself.  Do you think this would work --- cross the two ends over each other forming the loop.  Then wrap each end through the loop several times -- each one wraps in opposite direction, spreading these wraps along the loop (ie the wraps aren't bunched tightly together).  Then coat with glue.
 
I take it you prefer diluted PVA to CA when gluing down knots and other applications to thread.  Is this because it dries less rigid or because of the color change the CA usually causes?  Or maybe just cause its cleaner to work with? 
 
I always appreciate your attention to my problems and foibles.  Thanks Dan.