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HMS Bounty 1783 by rcmdvr - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48

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I am nervous to start this model and this build log. 

 

First, I am worried that I may have stepped over my "skill line" in choosing this kit as my next build.  This is my third build but will be my first fully rigged ship.  Planking and rigging should be the big challenge.  I hope to get some help along the way.

 

Second, the kit.  Before I purchased the kit, I researched and did not find a lot of info on this model.  I could not find a build log for this particular kit version of the Bounty.  I did find a discussion about the relative merits of the manufacturer and did not find it full of glowing comments.  But, since I have build one AL kit before (the Sansun), I decided to go ahead.

 

What grabbed me about this kit is the opportunity to build an interior.  I have toured a few 1:1 sailing ships such as the Victory and what I find truly interesting is touring the interior decks of the ship.  This is where I feel you can really begin to appreciate the life of a sailor in the 17 and 18 hundreds.  I hope my model will convey some of that feeling to whoever gets to view the completed model.

 

So here it goes......my build log of the HMS Bounty (inside and out).

 

 

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I didn't take any photos, but the contents of the box were neatly packaged and none of the ply sheets were warped.  The laser cutting of the parts is excellent.  A few small tags hold the parts and once these are cut the parts drop free.  I have begun the assembly of the keel and frames.  At this point I noticed that the slots in the keel and the frames were a bit oversized.  I cut some shims from 1/64 inch ply I had lying around and these worked.  In a few hours I had the beginnings of the model.

 

The keel and frames are built in stages; fore and aft.  The first stage involves the forward frames.  Once these are installed, some decking will be build and installed before proceeding with the aft frames.

 

I have now found that there are at least two builds of this model in process.  I am the third.  The other builds are ahead of me which is always nice as they will find the problems I have to deal with.  I am following both builds.

 

I noticed that in both builds and the model photographed on the box the frames and keel were either kept natural or in one case stained and sealed.  I have toured several full size ships of the Bounty's period and I have visited several web sites with photos of the replica Bounty that sank several years back.  It appears that much of the interior hull (i.e. frames and interior planking) were painted while.  I decided, what the heck, and painted my frames and keel white.  Time will tell whether I have made a mistake or not.  I think it will brighten the interior when the model is completed.  Let's hope.

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Hi Don,

 

I missed your first post, so welcome aboard the HMS Bounty AL club  :)

 

It's a nice model and IMO the quality is quite good for the price.  Some of the instructions are a bit mixed up due to language translation....but combined with the picture book and plan sheets it's doable.

 

Captain Al's thread has some great suggestions as you probably know and you'll find a third build that unfortunately the builder (Capt.Fisher) dropped off shortly after the hull planking (but some good info none the less).  

 

Here is the link to the third build: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6241-hms-bounty-by-captfisher-148-artesania-latina/?hl=%20hms%20%20bounty

  

Also, KeithW has some very nice finished pictures of his build in the Gallery.

 

Good luck with the build  :)

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I completed the forward lower decking.  The decking is made from two pieces of thin plywood planked with .06 thick basswood.  The model shows long strips but I prefer shorter strips offset between rows.  I use black permanent marketer to simulate the caulking between the individual planks.  I made a little jig for the nail holes.  I first punch small holes in the planks with a pin (using the jig for alignment).  I then use a sharpened #2 pencil to color the pin holes.  A thin coat of polyutherane was used to seal everything.  I didn't use any stain because I am trying to keep the interior bright.

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The following photos are of the installation of the aft lower decking.  Like the forward decking it is constructed by planking 1/16" ply with 1/64" basswood strips.  I am reasonably satisfied with the look of the decking with its caulking and nail holes.  The deck is epoxied to the cross beams.  The final photo is of the cross beams being laid for the next deck.

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Hi Don.

Nice start :)

I have this kit as yet not started.. Fingers are now itching.

I do like the idea of the white on the frames.

 

Got my seat booked for this build.

Regards Antony.

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I like the white frames also.  Can't wait to see how it looks when finished.  I have the AL "Bounty" on the shelf also.

 

Dave

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Thanks for the comments, especially the approval of white.  Every time I pick up the model I wonder if I have done the right thing.  I am now working on some of the internal structures and hope to post pictures this weekend.

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Been away from this site for awhile.  Still have been able to get a little work done on the Bounty.  After installing the bottom partial decks, the instructions called from building and installing a small room or cabin.  The basic construction was 1/16 inch ply which I covered in strips of pear wood for color.  I also added some very narrow strips of walnut.  I think the walls and door turned out OK.  The plans called for rows of nails which I did not like the look of, so I left them out.

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Next came the installation of the second deck.  I first "trial" fitted the deck to the hull and then began the planking.  The plans called for using bass strips the full length of the deck and then lines of nails.  Again I didn't like this look.  I decided to cut the bass strips into smaller planks and glue them to the ply offset.  I used a very sharp pencil to simulate the nails or pegging.  I used a permanent marker along the edges to simulate caulking.

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Once the deck was glued to the hull, I worked on the gratings.  The kit provided the pre-cut "slats" which worked out pretty well.  The frame for the gratings is walnut sticks.  Once these were installed I gave the entire deck a clear coat.

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While I am working on the decks and various deck structures I am looking ahead with a bit of dread...planking.  The kit call for single planking with what looks to be walnut and a bit of bass.  I am seriously thinking of double planking.  I think I will purchase some 3/32" basswood sheet and cut into 1/4" strips for the first plank.  Then, I will use veneers of darkwood (I am not sure which wood I will use) for the outer planking.  I have double planked once before with some success.  I really feel that I will be able to do a better job using this method.

 

Any ideas on this.  Any suggestions or cautions.

 

Thanks in advance for the input.

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I’ve been thinking about the single planking as well.  Many AL builders have commented on their struggle when bending the very hard 2mm thick walnut planks (not to mention being limited to single planking on the Bounty). 

 

I’m actually considering double planking myself and see no issue with taking that approach.  Also, a lighter color wood for the first layer will give better contrast on the inside and make it easier to see items placed on the lower and middle decks for viewing purposes (barrels, boxes, sail material, etc).  

 

Another possibility I’m considering (either with single or double planking) is to substitute the Walnut planks with a more forgiving wood/material that will make it a bit easier to accomplish spiling/shaping the planks into position.

 

 

On a different subject…if you haven’t already considered it; be sure to notch/drill your cross beams on frame 34 (cross beams 49 and 160) to allow the bilge pipes to pass through to the hold area.

 

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I was just going to mention that Boyd...yeah, don't overlook things that have to go down through two or three layers of deck.  This probably goes without asking, but have you been checking the alignment of your mast holes and mast steps?  Do that and make sure its good to go before you put your top deck on.  In my case, with all the problems of aligning the decks with the frames etc. etc., getting those masts (still just dowels) to slide down through each hole was a major problem.  I had to do a lot of filing with both super long files and ultra short ones.

 

Otherwise from another AL Bounty builder its looking great.  I notice your using the term 'basswood' for your decking.  Is this the same wood as 'ramin' (it looks similar) which is what my kit calls it.  And you are using fractions of inches instead of millimeters to describe sizes.  Is that from the kit or have you just done the translation to inches.  My kit uses mm for everything.  I'm wondering if your's, probably being much newer than mine (mine was about 7 years old before I even got it) has not gone to inches or both and maybe has improved the translation of instructions.  Overall I think the AL kit is very good and would recommend it to other prospective builders.

 

As for planking with 2 mm walnut.  Yes it is a chore.  But if I can do it -- with zero experience in soaking or steaming wood -- so can you.  There will be places where the bend is tight and short and the trick will be not so much to get the wood pliable enough but to find a way to clamp it down while it dries.  And don't forget your filler material.  There are going to be plenty of places where you won't have framing to back your planks and will need to add the filler.  Last tip for the morning -- no need to use filler on the open side like I stupidly did and then had to remove it later.

 

Good luck; its a great build so far.  Glad I found your log.  I've been off the site for a couple months as well as off the work bench.  Maybe your build will inspire me to get going again. 

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I was able to continue working on the second deck structures.  Here you have a photo on the cabin for this deck.  Again I used some pear for the sides.  I elected to use a permanent marker I sharpened to draw in the bars holding the panes of glass.  The door pulls were relatively easy to make.  I did not use the provided rings as I found them to be a bit big.

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After the second deck cabin was in place, I began constructing the ladders that wil be use on the "tween" deck areas.

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Here is the last photo of the second deck that shows the completed cabin, a ladder and what I believe was some form of shipboard storage.  Will have to do some research to determine what it represents.

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Next I decided to prefit the main deck.  This turned out to be bigger project that I had thought.  I first made sure that the mast holes lined up but this left some of the ribbing unto properly lined.  I had to create some filler blocks to get everything to look OK.  Glad I prefit.

 

Next I glued the decking into place.

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I will next spend the next few weeks decing the maindeck and building other deck structures.  I still have not decided whether I will single or double plank.

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Looking good LA.  Just two comments -- if I read your comment (19) above correctly about "some form of shipboard storage" .... I think you are referring to the pot racks.  These will be filled with 30 or so little breadfruit pots.  Otherwise I don't know what you are referring to.  The other comment is to remember to test all those little cutouts so they are big enough to accommodate the 3x5 and 5x5mm Samson posts and stanchions.  You won't want to have to enlarge them once the planking covers their 4th side.

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Thanks for the info on the breadfruit pots.  I saw the pots in the instructions but had no idea what they were intended to hold.  I will also check all the deck hole before planking.

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Hi .

You are making Exelent progress on the Bounty.

It's your choice on one or two layers of planking.

Going to start my build of the Bounty next week.

Will be watching your build for a little guidance as you progress.

 

Regards Antony.

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Well, it took longer than I thought but I have complete planking the top deck.  I believe I did an acceptable job.  I use a miter cut chopper (uses a razor blade) chop the planks to the same length (there are a couple of hundred).  I then outline the edge of each plank with permanent marker to simulate the caulking.  Finally, I build a jig to punch the nail holes which I marked with a lead pencil.  I kind of like the effect.  I have also put a coat of clear over the deck.

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Nice work, Don. Just a word of warning - permanent marker runs when exposed to some solvents (e.g. in varnish!). I suggest you test your varnish first before attempting to varnish your deck. 

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After laying down the planks, I used a single edge razor to scrape the surface of the decking.  This really mutes the lines left by the permanent marker.  I then applied a single coat of clear polyester.  It did not seem to affect the permanent marker lines.  I will keep your warning in mind as I progress.

 

The next step in the build is to place the first seven rows of planking, starting from the top of the hull.  These seven rows are in basswood.  Once the are complete I will be switching to walnut to complete the planking.  I am wondering if I should also put in caulking lines in the basswood portion of the planking.  I would make each run of the planking really stand out.

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