themadchemist

have you seen this? probably so but if not... it shows the 2 wheeled cannons

http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/page.php?6

Hey Garward, That is an even easier solution. I noticed the wing nuts for easy adjustment. I'll definitely be making one of those sanding gigs. thanks again for the ideas and interesting and beautiful ship build.

Nice Conny Tex, shame about the 1st, but looks like it hasn't stopped you.

Oh, and Dan V has a great tutorial on adding your ship build inks to your sig. Now that you have 2 and its also so others seeing you post elsewhere know where your ships are

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/760-how-to-add-a-build-log-link-to-your-signature/

The 2 wheels carriages are more historically accurate and the cannon may have been iron rather then brass. Or at least that what my research dug up.

Thats an interesting mix on blacker put I'm sure there is more then one kind of reactant that can be used. Liver of sulfur is typically used I thought. As long as it gave the desired effects is all that matters. the colour difference is no doubt due to the alloy difference of the metal. Air probably finished off the reaction. Funny I used diluted H3PO4 (phosphoric acid) when cleaning the chrome faucets in the lab. Next time you drick a Coke read that label, Phosphoric acid is an ingredient, its the 4th after Water, HFCS, and caramel colour....

I just checked the stuff I bought and it's selenious acid and Coppper chloride and carbonates.

Here's a link in Grant Dales Vicky build where I show some copper compound and give a little chemistry of copper

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/163-hms-victory-by-grant-dale-mamoli-scale-190/page-6

I remember seeing on MSW (may have been the old MSW) a recipe for ebonyizing wood. seems IIRC, vinegar (acetic acid) and steel wool (0000 size) and some type of wood dust. Wish I had written that down...

Nice pdf on sails, Thanks for posting, I hadn't seen that one either.

and don't quit keeping track of time, I think its cool your doing that. The analytical part in side of me wants to know, just like when I was a kid I did the experiment to see how many licks it take to get the the center of a tootsiepop. 3 WAS NOT the answer.

Hello Garward

Again as always, beautiful work, my friend and excellent tips on how to work through the problems of building and equipment needed.

I have a question on your yard sanding block, it is hard to tell from the pictures but is it safe to assume that the spacer blocks are wedge shaped to the angle of the yards taper? What a perfect way of tapering masts and yards.

Thanks as always for your expertise.

Oh and one last thought, be stopping the garboard between bulkhead 1 and 2 it allowed me to plank the complete hull with 12 full length strakes per side. Thinning and beveling were required in places, especially the bow but I had no dropped planks or stealers.

One BTW PopJack I shimmed several bulkheads and it worked fine. Some even during planking as I saw need.

First off the Swift isnt designed to have a rabbet. the keel should be beveled to a point forward of bulkhead 5 and the garboard strake lies on this angle, this is then flattened to fit the false keel. On my build I had the plank flat against the skeg then twist to lie on the keel line. From bulkhead 5 to 7 the keel should be slightly beveled. Making this keel fit is going to be the biggest chore of this build and I'm planning on changing stem posts for one that wil hold a figurehead.

Here's a pic of the garboard shaped

Here's a couple with the garboard attached.

Hopefully you can see how the garboard wraps (or lays on) the keel up front and lays on either side on the skeg. This does require thinning of the skeg width to match the false keel when it is fitted, Which I plan to do before 2nd planking. I plan to leave the keel line a bit shallow to the false keel so that the rabbet forms between the 2, of course that is only 0.5mm on a second planking.

Hope this helped and didnt confuse to much.

Yea Sjors brought popcorn, extra butter please.

Unlike you lucky membesr that have gotten to tour the Morgan, I'm land locked here in IL. Funny thing, just this last week I was showing Tam some Conny logs and now she wants to make our vacation somewhere so she can see and tour some tall ships. I'm amazed at how much she is interested in this topic. Any suggestions as to the best place/city and ships for vacations? Mystic sounds like an interesting place, plus isn't that the place with pizza.

Somehow it always seems to turn to food.or drink

The thread on channels in your thread Robbyn was very informative, for me at least. With my background in physic I should of known the chain plate had no torque when straight with shroud lines, but it just didnt click. So much can be learned from logs.

LV you changed avatars on us. Looks like your bird flew into the sunset.

Oh and just to beat Sjors,

what no pictures....

I see you made it tex, Congrats!

and on the beer/ship building experiments, take it from a chemist, take your time. You don't want to rush your experiment and foul the data. I recommend doing all beer experiments in at least triplicate, Of course you may have to post pictures and ask if the keel is straight if the experiment loses its control.

Welcome aboard

Looks good.

I really like the darker balconey and last side photo of the stern really shows off the wood grain. Everything looks great, so on to deck furniture and then rigging.

I know what you mean by the blacken it stuff, I cant believe I just paid $9 for a 4oz bottle of sulfides which I had back in my lab when I taught. ARGH! Oh well, such is life. How long did you let them soak, longer soaks is supposed to create a blacker patina, I've personally never done patina work? Sulfides I didnt use much, they are typically used in qualitative analysis but I prefer the sulfate process (sulfide compounds smell like rotten farts) also did you notice a difference in the brass plate verses the solder, its hard to tell in the pictures?

Very Nice metalwork. So are you going to blacken it or leave it brass? It does have that wrought iron look about it though.

I like those pictures. Especially the #4 of the starboard from the lower angle. great shot and you can see Anja's Half Moon box on the shelf behind.

Thats one heck of a lot of gun ports, Well done. Now on to the other side.

I seriously haven't tried searching the virgina pilot boats and their construction. I planned on starting the project just as a per instructions build. I was worried more about it being a physical practicum rather then a historic vessel.  something to teach me technique. along the way I figured I'd learn even more if I changed a few things.

Have you seen the inlayed floor of the Royal Yacht Caroline by Janos

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1373-royal-yacht-caroline-by-janos-heavily-bashed/page-2

My inspiration for my transom, if I could be 1% as good It'll satisfy me. Love to see how that floor was done in a step by step fashion.

You had talked about the Guitar pattern for your deck or deckhouse roof, but you would need silver wood, and look what I found.

http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed-black-tulipier-veneer-1-1-1-1-1.aspx

I ordered the multi sample pack so I'll let you know how the silver looks.

http://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed-black-tulipier-veneer-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-1-2.aspx

I had some one those neodymium magnets when I taught and they were almost impossible to get apart. I remember the day a student thought it'd be cute as an ear ring after seeing them hold through my hand. Talk about a screaming kid. maybe I'll save my money on that purchase.

I had the same trouble. I had holes in the deck where I tried nailing and removed them. I cleaned the PVA up and completely used CA for the deck. With the complex curvature of that deck I dont know how to do it with PVA. the biggest problem is clamping, there is nothing straight to clamp to and her deck curves to the middle and out making the corners a bit of problem to pin down. Luckily mine didn't break but I had tried soaking it the day before and forming which my have given me that little extra flex. Not that it matters as it will be covered. For me I think the deck was the hardest part to secure so far.

Oh, BTW how are those magnet clamps working? I've considered getting some.

Glad I could be of help, diverting attention with pictures I mean.

Of course they're not Your Vicky but there was an awful lot of chemistry and engineering that went into these ships.

I recently was reading something on the development of the copper plating as a superior preventative to paint against sea critters (mostly topedo worms) anyway the early plating used iron nails which caused an electric potential in the sea water that caused electro-corrosion and caused early plate corrosion, which lead to the use of copper nails. Its funny I have a device that does this in my pool and it save Big $$ on pool chemicals, Cu ions are a fungicide.

Here's a couple of interesting pic's, probably seen before by many, showing just how corrosive sea water can be.

and those nasty worms, actually a mollusk

but then just like a fungus creates the burl in wood so is the teredo wood interesting

Stay on the ice cream and get to feeling better. Tammy wasn't a candidate for the surgery but here in the US they usually go with the CPAP first. a lot depends on the severity also. Bob, my friend in grad school, during his sleep test was going minutes without breathing. The person testing him said it was the worst case he'd seen. I know when camping we always made him pitch tent 75 meters away and you could still hear him snore.

Ok now I'm confused, like thats new....

So Vulcanbombers the SF log I was looking at then. I must have gotten it and the Half Moon crossed some how. To many log builds and I only lurkered before the crash. I got my first kit while MSW was down and I'm still trying to figure out who went where and with which build.

Thanks for the link, thats such a beautiful cross stitch of the Aggy.

Hello Anja

Good to see your job drama end and you being able to get back in the ship yards.

That was a pretty big fix, Very Nice Work!

I'm looking forward to seeing this one go together.

Prior to MSW1's demise I was a lurker and must have looked over your SF log dozens of times. Am I remembering correctly, but weren't you doing a stitch work also?

Oh, and it must be nice having Sjors around with the ablity to change the weather   keep that sunshine flowing!

Hum, I'll have to see if my local shop has the extra thick, he handles Zap brand, just it's true you learn something new everyday. So now I wonder which is used to simulate rivets on hinges, hum.... one question answered creates another...

Thanks Augie for the link.

Thanks Chuck for the many examples. This is just what I was looking for.

Cheers 

Sorry for being a chemist, but I can't help myself....and maybe someone is interested

Copper, as a transition metal, can form 2 ions (Cu+1 and Cu+2) therefore to confuse things even further copper oxide comes in 2 forms

Copper I Oxide (Cu2O)

Copper II Oxide (CuO)

mix the red and black and you have that brown penny, strangely many copper solutions are blue though...

and here's the carbonate for comparison

Sorry to hear your under the weather. I understand the medication backlash thing and have experienced it many times. So was the UPPP apnea related? Tammy has that and uses a CPAP. Getting that REM sleep is key. A friend in grad school had apnea and after getting his CPAP his memory improved many fold. Hope your well and in the ship yards again soon.

Here's to a speedy recovery.

and... not to be a chemist ...but

on Copper patina. the green/blue is actually a cupric (old school name for copper) carbonate rather then an oxide. The oxide of copper is brown, like one sees on a penny (or any copper coin), Air exposure causes the carbonation reaction which occurs with the free CO2 in the air. it's really a 2 step reaction, oxidize then carbonation, thats where the CO2 becomes CO3 (carbonate) Ocean water has CO2 in it, but many other chemical reactions also. The cupric carbonates color is also hydration dependent. Some compounds are very hydration color dependent. Cobalt chloride is a great example changes from red to blue depending on its hydration (water).

Cobalt chloride hexahydrate (that 6 waters attached)

Cobalt Chloride anhydrous (thats dehydrated)

Thought I'd add some pictures while your under the weather, that will help appease some maybe.

Oh BTW, Very nice work on the yards. spars, booms..... whatever the terminology