Le Soleil Royal by jack.aubrey - FINISHED - De Agostini - Scale 1:70

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday January 29th, 2011 - Planking the quickwork

 
This week I began the task of planking the hull, from waterline downwards.
 
As usually happens, during the installation of the first planks, it is necessary to become comfortable with this work and this takes time. And this regularly happened: I succeded to install only seven planks on each side of the ship spending a lot of time and efforts. There are some problems originated by the length of the strips I'm using, but I will try to expand this matter later.
 
Here are four images . . 
 
01 P1070172.jpg

02 P1070173.jpg

03 P1070174.jpg

04 P1070175.jpg

 
At the beginning I was able to apply a couple of planks by spending about two hours and half each time. After I became a little bit faster and now I'm able to apply three planks every three hours. This low speed is mainly due to the strips for planking supplied in the kit: they are too short, only 25 cm, and I need to use four of them to complete an entire plank, making joints with a lot of care to maintain the right shape and bending. I evaluated the idea to use long strips by buying them on the market but I took the decision to save money and be more useful to other shipmodelers that are building the same model and are using the same materials.
 
Anyway I can say I made some nice experiences, I will try to introduce them in the future. That's all for today, Jak.Aubrey

 

 

Edited August 29, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Inside this message I inserted four other images that show more in detail what I've done in these days.
 
Images n° 01 and 02 show how all the new strips, added downwards, were tapered. The strips are 25 cm. long and, before starting the planking task I prepared a scale with Excel to calculate exactly how to taper these strips. For the prow area, the bulkheads involved are n° 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 plus the stem. Tapering was made starting between third and fourth bulkhead, towards the bow, +/- 18 cm. long. Tapering has reduced the height of the strip at its smaller side to 2,5mm. For tapering I used an iron ruler and a cutter with a new blade. Strips are quite soft and it is possible to cut them without problems. After cutting, with a sanding block I finished the tapering in the right shape. With a calibre I check and eventually modify the shape according with the calculated measures, as the picture here below shows. 
 
image no more available due to the closure of DeAgostiniPassion forum.
 
The strips so prepared were soaked in warm water for 20/30 minutes and this was, for this kind of wood, always enough to permit curving the strips wihout problems. Glue used was the vinyl and somewere some brass nails, some of them hammered totally, some of them only partially and often removed when the glue was dry. Strips are glued together with the strips of the previous plank: this is important but I think it is not certainly a news.
 
01 P1070176.jpg

 
In this second image you can see how i made the joint on the same plank: first it was done in a staggered way, for a certain plank it was done between the third and the fourth, in the next between the fourth and the fifth. I have also done the joint not over the bulkhead but in the area between two of them. I used same masking tape to keep the strips together until glue exsiccation and I also used a small clamp to force the same curve of the previous plank.
 
02 P1070177.jpg

 
Here it is possible to see the poop area. Also in this area tapering is required but the amount of it is smaller than for the bow. Here, over the last bulkhead, its height is +/- 4 mm. Here the strips are not soaked because there are no big curves to follow. In the middle of the hull there is no need for tapering. 
 
03 P1070178.jpg

 
Here below an image with the hull capsized and where it is possible to view how the planks have a natural bending and shape. Somewhere I had to change a bulkhead by adding some thin wood spacers. By looking at the high resolution image n° 4 it is possible to see at least one of them.
 
04 P1070179.jpg

 
To conclude this long message, my work is well proceeding, without big problems; . . the only setback is the time needed to perform this tasks and, as you can see in the last image, the remaining area still to be planked is wide . . 

 
Cheers, Jack.

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday February 26th, 2011 - latest news 

 

It is more or less one month that I don't work on my Soleil Royal (remember to take care of the date inside the messages, not the date the message was added). 
The shipyard at the moment is still closed and the reason is that I had the need to finish another model, in time for an exibition here in Italy. This model is the "Armed Launch 1803" and I have posted several images of it in the ModelShipWorld Gallery at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/210-armed-launch-1803/ .
 
To complete the launch model I had to install a gun and two swivels, and also some other things. The gun and the swivels, made of brass worked at lathe, had to be blackened with a particular liquid that oxidates the surface of these pieces. I don't have an english translation of the italin word "brunitore". If you go to look at the gallery there are many images of these guns and probably you will better understand what I mean.
 
Having to perform this kind of task, I took the occasion to make some test also on the guns for the Soleil Royal. It may be too early but I had the liquid available so I did it. 
 
These guns are not made with brass, they are not lathed and are probably die cast. First I had to remove with small files the flaws from the casting and, after having refined each gun and cleaned and degreased all of them, I blackened these pieces. Cleaning and degreasing is very important for the final result.
 
There are two types of guns, in the first two images the first type is shown, after and before the treatment with the liquid. Barrells are only positioned on the truck, not yet coloured.
 
01 P1070239R.jpg

02 P1070240R.jpg

 
Images 03 and 04 show the barrells of the other gun type. These guns have in my opinion an exagerrated and out of scale decoration, but this is the material supplied and I cannot find something more realistic on the market as alternative.
 
03 P1070236.jpg

04 P1070238R.jpg

 
After the successful test, I will blacken all of them soon. Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Saturday April 9th, 2011 - Shipyard reopened

 

I restarted the shipyard and I decided to install planks from the keel upwards. Now there are eight planks on each side, while in the bow area there are a piece of the nineth. I will continue until the end of this process although I don't know how much time I'll need. To finish may be necessary at least ten planks per side.
 
I've taken some images outside. I hope they should be better quality than inside, in particular way the high resolution copies. Here five images, three outside with the hull capsized and two in my laboratory, the hull kept by a keel clamper and the images taken using the flash. 
 
01 P1070512.jpg

02 P1070515.jpg

03 P1070523.jpg

04 P1070528.jpg

05 P1070529.jpg

 
I had to taper considerably in the bow area but the result sounds good. Regards, Jack.Aubrey

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

With this new message I want to show some details of the poop area and how the planks are installed there. The strips supplied and used are very good for this task: they are of softwood and can be soaked for a few minutes and become very flexible, so you can manage them easily, without problems to follow the hull lines and risks of breakage. In spite of their size (5x2mm) I was able to install the first seven planks at the poop area without the need of fillers. The thickness of the keel, near the stern post, was previously reduced in order to maintain the original thickness after having installed the planks. This can be seen easily in images 04 and 05.
 
I wrote before about the absence of fillers, but now I will probably use some of them for the next planks near the stern post. At the prow there are much less problems, here, in contrast with the stern, there is the need for a couple of stealers at the right place.
 
See you next time, Jack.Aubrey   
 
01 P1070519.jpg

02 P1070520.jpg

03 P1070521.jpg

04 P1070525.jpg

05 P1070526.jpg

 

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

April 26th, 2011 - first planking finished

 

Yesterday I finished to apply the first planking of my Soleil Royal: it was a long lasting  task, made of several relatively short sessions because of the strips supplied. The wood was good but the problem came fron the maximum length of them. As I wrote some messages ago, their length was 24 cm. and to complete a full plank I had to use four strips. And obviously the time consuming matter were the joints. So I took more than 15 days to finish.
 
But now this work is over and today I spent half hour to remove some brass nails I had to hammer completely somewhere. Where possible I used to hammer them partially, in a way it was easy to remove them but this wasn't possible everywhere. To remove the nails I used a modified mini-screwdriver I prepared some months ago, while working on another model.
 
Here below five images taken today. I did nothing regarding sanding and levelling the hull below the waterline, this will be another step but I think that the proposed images can show better where are the points that will need to be leveled and refined. See the high resolution images for better viewing these points. After sanding they will become invisible and for this reason it's important to show them now.
 
01 P1070554.jpg

02 P1070555.jpg

03 P1070556.jpg

04 P1070557.jpg

05 P1070558.jpg

 
See you soon, Jack.Aubrey

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Five additional images of the Soleil Royal first planking. 
 
Finally it is now the long awaited moment to completely see and appreciate the hull lines and the huge size of this model . .
 
Today a new great achievement in building this model is over and I'm ready and preparing for the future tasks . .
 
Today, April 26th, one year is past since I started building this model . .
  
Kind regards by Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 P1070559.jpg

02 P1070560.jpg

03 P1070561.jpg

04 P1070562.jpg

05 P1070563.jpg

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Sunday July 10th, 2011 - Some reflections about second planking

 

(advice: keep in mind the date inside the message, other you may misunderstand.)

 

 

Some months ago, more precisely in April, I finished the first planking of my Soleil Royal. After that date I stopped any activity for it because I decided to finish another model. So, my Soleil Royal is now over a shelf, waiting to be resumed. 
 
In the meantime De Agostini provided every week new materials and instructions and this week I received the 77th issue of this collection. During these past months, while I was working on the other model, De Agostini started to provide strips for the second planking. These strips measure 5 x 0.5mm and are 25cm long. They are the same mahogany strips De Agostini distributed in two previous collections: Santisìma Trinidad and USS Constitution. 
 
They are absolutely good for second planking but I get bored of them . . I developed in these years of shipmodeling a kind of dislike for mahogany (or sapelli, a kind of mahogany but less expensive) and also for walnut. Why: they are too dark, I prefer light/medium colour woods such as beechwood, oak, chestnut and tanganica (I don't know the english name, may it be the same ?). 
Having this propensity I took the following decision for MY Soleil Royal: instead of using the supplied mahogany strips I will produce them by myself using chestnut veneer. I found it some days ago in a wood store. This veneer is sold in linear meters, wide 20cm and thick 0,5mm. On one of the two sides there is a very thin layer of a kind of paper or fabric. Its presence maintains the veneer integer and makes easier to manipulate and cut it, while doesn't interfere with the glue. If you give a look to the following images, particularly the high resolution images, you can better understand how it is. 
 
01 P1070686.jpg

02 P1070687.jpg

 
The idea is to use strips of this veneer, of a given length that simulates, in scale, a plank of 7-8 meters and apply them following a pattern similar to the one used for the decks. I have also built a jig to cut these strips all the same.
 
Here below two other images of the veneer, chestnut in the foreground and oak in the background. Images 01 and 02 show the chestnut veneer. I purchased four linear meters, I think will be enough . . 
 
03 P1070688.jpg

04 P1070689.jpg

 
To conclude this message, I don't know when the shipyard will be reopend, I'm still working on the other model, but, surely, the second planking will be the subject of the future activities on my Soleil Royal. Kind regards, Jack.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday September 14th, 2011 - Poop

 

After +/- two months I resumed my Soleil Royal and now I want to show the work done in the poop area and at the transom. I used the mahogany strips supplied with the kit for the upper part of the poop and the "home made" chestnut strips for the transom. Mainly the reason of this behaviour was to understand the differences between the two kinds of veneer and definitely decide if my idea to use the chestnut was good or not. The mahogany strips proved to be very different in colour between them, while this did not happened for the chestnut. The way to work with them is practically the same but the differences in colour of mahogany are too evident. I made this knowing that the upper part of the poop will be 90% covered by decorations and should also be painted in blue. But this experience was enough for me to decide for the chestnut.
 
Coming back to the chestnut veneer, I was able to obtain the strips very easily and, thanks the the paper/fabric layer on one side, the cutting is greatly facilitated and precise: you can use cutter or scissors and you have a great flexibility to obtain strips of the needed height.
 
The next four images do not need comments. Before planking I coloured with black paint inside the four gun ports here located.
 
01 P1070785.jpg

02 P1070786.jpg

03 P1070784.jpg

04 P1070789.jpg

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

And now let's discuss about the following: how to proceed with the second planking on both sides of the hull. I'll try to explain better.

 

The instructions from the kit manufacturer suggest to install first the mahogany strip and to plank all the hull, then to refine and level the planks and finally to install the wales, using walnut strips 2 x 4mm, over this second planking, in the right position.

 

On each side of the hull, from the waterline to the top, wales should be installed as follows:

1. - 2 wales below the gunports of the lower gun deck;
   
2. - 1 wale over the gunports of the lower gun deck;
   
3. - 1 wale below the gunports of the intermediate deck;
   
4. - 1 wale over the gunports of the intermediate deck;
   
5. - 1 wale below the gunports of the upper deck;
   
6. - 1 wale over the gunports of the upper deck. This last wale seems to be smaller than the other listed before, but I have not yet received the issues where this is explained.
   

 

My plan is to change this process and proceed in the following way:

 

• - install the wales of 1) to 5) using strips 3 x 4mm and, perhaps for 1) 3 x 5 directly of the first planking;
  
• - install chestnut veneer strips between the wales that contain the gun ports;
  
• - install mahogany strips between the wales where there are not the gun ports;
  
• - the remaining parts of the hull will be planked with chestnut;
  
• - the keel will be, when installed, of mahogany instead of stained plywood. The latter is the material supplied for the keel by De Agostini.         
  

 

After this complex script, I recognize that probably someone may not understand what I have in mind, If you have any question, please do not hesitate to write.

 

Regards, Jack. 

[jack.aubrey]

September 15th, 2011 - Wales

 

This morning I went to a couple of hobby model shops looking for "long" strips of walnut (or similar) of 3 x 4mm to be used for the wales instead of the strips supplied with the kit, 2 x 4mm, that are only 25cm long. 

The additional millimeter I'm looking for can be explained by the fact that I want to install the wales directly over the first planking, and the chestnut strips of the second planking will reduce this by half a millimeter. By this way the wales will bend out of +/- 2,5mm.

 

Unfortunately I did not find was I was looking for, so this afternoon I decided to do them by myself using my circular saw from PROXXON and a table of beechwood I had in my stock of wood. The maximum length of these "home made" wales is +/- 80cm. 

 

The cutting of these wales was a very interesting experience. I had the opportunity to practice with the circular saw for several hours, learning many new tricks and methods and also changing the blades, a kind of operation I never did.

 

And also the reult was for me fantastic: probably it may be the luck of the beginner but I obtained simply perfect wales . . . Very satisfatory experience ! 

 

I had some wasted wood, and especially I had a lot of sawdust. Instead of discarding the sawdust, I collected it for future use and, with the wasted wood, I made other strips of various sizes that probably will become useful for the future. Then I needed to clean my workshop with a vacuum cleaner. . three hurrah for the inventor of the vacuum cleaner . . cheeers, Jack.Aubrey.

[Kevin]

well done, can i come to yours - so as to show me how to use my PROXXON saw table

Edited April 2, 2013 by Kevin

[johannesludo5]

HI SIR VERY NICE BUILD AND GOOD PICTURES THANKS JOHN

[jack.aubrey]

well done, can i come to yours - so as to show me how to use my PROXXON saw table

 

My table saw is the Proxxon FET: I made some experiences and the first lesson I learnt was that for every cut you have to select the right blade. As you can see from the link here below this saw can mount some different blades:

 

http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/27070.php

 

But it may also use all the blades available for the smaller model, KS230, described here below:

 

http://www.proxxon.com/eng/html/27006.php

 

They have a smaller diameter and can be used for other applications. Another point to know for usages with different blades is the need of many sawing cap covers adapted for cutting very small parts. When you buy the saw you have only two of them but you should find to obtain more. I wasn't able to find them here in Italy so I built some of them using as template the one supplied and making them with (high quality) ply wood. Another alternative may be a metal such as aluminium or some kind of plastic.

 

Anyway, for learning to use it well the only way is to use it several times . . (and after having read the user's guide to become confident with the tool).

 

But be careful to your fingers, because the saw blade protection supplied can be used in very limited applications for a ship modeler, in the mayority of the cases I experienced it is near to impossible to use it.

 

Regards, Jack.    

[jack.aubrey]

Monday, September 19th, 2011 - Wales

 

During this weekend I installed the wales I built some days ago with my table saw. The major problem for this task was to define the right position of the first wale to be installed. 
This was not an easy task because De Agostini does not supply the kit with plans and the instructions do not show precisely the position of them. But I found a great help by looking at the SR plans from Mantua/Panart Models. 
Using these mixed sources of informations I was able to reasonably determine the proper position of the first wale to install on each side. 
The first wale, whoose position was defined by using this empiric method, was located above the gun ports of the intermediate deck. This wale was also easier to install because did not need to be curved at the bow. By the help of a masking tape I delimited the area where to fix the wale and I applied it with vynil glue, but helping the process by also using thin brass nails, with a very small head. To do so I bored in advance the wale before installation. 
Once the glue was dry, the day after, I leveled the headnails with a file, leaving the remaining piece of the nails in place.    
 
Image 01 here below shows in detail the result.
 
01 P1070797.jpg

 
Later I have installed the wales below the intermediate deck gunports. The process was the same and to apply them parallel to the first ones I used some spacers applied properly with a double adhesive tape.
Another problem was that these wales had to be curved at the bow but this was not a real problem. I soaked the wood in hot water for half a hour and this was enough . . thanks also to the beechwood that is particularly recommended in this situation.
 
Next three images show the first two wales on a side definitely applied to the hull.
  
02 P1070792.jpg

03 P1070793.jpg

04 P1070800.jpg

 
Kind regards, Jack.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Sunday November 20th, 2011 - current status

 

After a long period of absence due to health problems, I am back now to show something new. To be honest there are few new things, in september I started with renewed passion working on this model but then I had to face with my health. It is only today that I was able to take photos but what you can see here is the status by the end of september.
The health problems are now gone and I think optimistically to restart as soon as I will recover better.
 
Compared with the status of my previous message (19/9/2011) I added two new wales per side and I planked with mahogany veneer the area without gunports within the wales. Surely you can better understand looking at the images.
 
01 P1070911.jpg

 
The differences in colour within the same woods are done by the oil I applied to see the difference before and after.
 
02 P1070913.jpg

 
The headnails in the new wales are not yet removed and may appear out of scale if you look them at the high resolution images. but they will sound better after being smoothed.
 
03 P1070916.jpg

 
I also started to install the area where the gunports are with the chestnut veneer, but at this point my work was interrupted . . the few work done is shown here below. 
 
04 P1070917.jpg

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Sunday November 20th, 2011 - current status

 

Two additional images, same date as the above message. In the background you can see two other models I have currently on build: the dutch privateer Dolphyn, from Corel and the spanish 74 guns ship San Juan Nepomuceno, later HMS San Juan, from Artesania Latina.
Sometime I will finish them too. . .
 
01 P1070914.jpg

02 P1070915.jpg

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[Kevin]

in this day and age you would think that a kit supplier would provide you with the information required to place the whales, nearly every measurment on my build seam to revolve around them,

 

really looking good

[jack.aubrey]

in this day and age you would think that a kit supplier would provide you with the information required to place the whales, nearly every measurment on my build seam to revolve around them, . . really looking good

 

Hi Kevin, perhaps I don't understand well your message but it seems you don't have clear in mind what is a WALE (without H) on a ship of the line.

I attach an image, its title identifies the source, where you can have a visual explanation of the term WALE by looking at the elements from number 10 to 15.

May be I'm misinterpreting you, if its true I beg your pardon. Cheers, Jack.

[Kevin]

During this weekend I installed the wales I built some days ago with my table saw. The major problem for this task was to define the right position of the first wale to be installed. 

This was not an easy task because De Agostini does not supply the kit with plans and the instructions do not show precisely the position of them. But I found a great help by looking at the SR plans from Mantua/Panart Models. 

Using these mixed sources of informations I was able to reasonably determine the proper position of the first wale to install on each side. 

The first wale, whoose position was defined by using this empiric method, was located above the gun ports of the intermediate deck. This wale was also easier to install because did not need to be curved at the bow. By the help of a masking tape I delimited the area where to fix the wale and I applied it with vynil glue, but helping the process by also using thin brass nails, with a very small head. To do so I bored in advance the wale before installation. 

Once the glue was dry, the day after, I leveled the headnails with a file, leaving the remaining piece of the nails in place.  

 

Hello my friend

spelling mistake aside, i was referring to the fact that for an inexperienced builder, not knowing where to place these strakes exactly, can have a drastic affect on the appearance of the final result, even with the Jotika Caldercraft plans, which display the information quite well, they are still time consuming to get right,

Edited April 4, 2013 by Kevin

[jack.aubrey]

Tuesday January 10th, 2012

 

After a long pause due to Christmas holidays and some additional health problems, I resumed the work of the Soleil Royal and today I have something new to show you.
 
The work was focused on applying the second planking, chestnut and mahogany veneer. Now I reached a reasonable point on both sides and the most critical and boring area to plank, around the gun ports, is over.
 
Here below some images I shot today  . . 
 
01 P1070924.jpg

02 P1070926.jpg

03 P1070930.jpg

04 P1070931.jpg

05 P1070934.jpg

Now I can decide to continue upwards or to start planking downwards. To proceed downwards I need to install new wales. I will decide how to proceed but I'm thinking to continue downwards. 
 
Cheers, Jack. 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[Kevin]

jack will you please put a profile picture of all your builds into the following link, others will like to see your work

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1589-latest-full-profile-photograph-of-your-build/

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday January 11th, 2012

 

After some thinking I decided to continue planking downwards. Today I spent a very productive afternoon: I installed on both sides a beechwood wale below the lower deck gunports, then a plank of mahogany followed by another wale. In total the equivalent of six planks, but very demanding. I'm very satisfied because the final ship shape is emerging. Last but not least I started to plank with chestnut below the lower wale

 

As soon as possible I will publish new photos. Cheers, Jack.Aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Thursday January 12th, 2012

 

Today I continued the work started yesterday, now the two sides are specular. 
And this evening I shot some images of the resulting evolution. In these new images you can observe the new wales and the planks below them. Now the great time of planking is the main task of the near future. 
I'm also thinking about the decision to paint in dirty white the quickwork or leave it as it is.
 
Kind regards by Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 P1070942.jpg

02 P1070943.jpg

03 P1070946.jpg

04 P1070948.jpg

05 P1070955.jpg

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Wednesday January 18th, 2012

 

The images shown in this message allow you to look at how the second planking process is evolving downwards. Currently the two sides are not equal because on the right side there are four planks missing, more or less a couple of hours of work. I think to apply in the same manner two or three other planks downwards and after I believe it is arrived the moment to plank from the keel upwards.
 
But, before starting this new process, I have to do something new: install the missing pieces of the keel, the stem and the stern.
 
This installation follows a method I have already used in other models (Dolphyn and San Juan). For my Soleil Royal this method is also pushed by the quality of the wood supplied for these pieces; they are made with a plywood that is absolutely inadequate for this role. The keel must appear of solid wood and of good quality . .
 
Starting from these considerations I decided to cover the plywoord with mahogany veneer, in line with the wood used for the remaining parts of the hull. Just to show an example I attach here an image of my model of Dolphyn, where I applied the same method and where it is possible to judge the result.
 
P1060641.jpg

 
For more details see also: http://i619.photobucket.com/albums/tt277/jack_aubrey/Varie/P1060641.jpg
 
Here below the images of the Soleil Royal shot today:
 
Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey.
 
01 P1070956.jpg

02 P1070957.jpg

03 P1070958.jpg

04 P1070959.jpg

 

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

. . continuation from previous message.

 

Additional zoomed images of some aspects of this second planking.
 
01 a.jpg

02 b.jpg

03 c.jpg

04 d.jpg

 
See you soon, Jack.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

January 28th, 2012

 

Since my last message I had only four days available for my Soleil . . as anticipaded I decided to stop planking downwards and to start from the keel. But before I had to install the "visible" pieces of the keel.  
 
While the material supplied was not the best, anyway they were perfect in term of shape and cut so I did not have any problem to install them correctly. To assure a perfect fixing of these pieces to the hull I used the vinyl glue supported by a steel nail hammered every 8 cm into the hull. 
 
Once the keel (in this case only the plywood) was definitely in place I started the application of the planks, in order to position them as near as possible to it.
Here below two overall images . .
 
01 P1070960.jpg

02 P1070961.jpg

 
After two o three planks I covered the plywood of the keel with mahogany veneer, having with this operation the possibility to close any kind of gap between the keel and the first plank. Only the stem is incomplete because I have before to finish the hull.
 
New images with focus of the keel . . .
 
03 P1070969.jpg

04 P1070963.jpg

05 P1070964.jpg

 
Then I continued regular planking upwards and now, as you can see, there are more or less seven planks per side to finish this huge task. I foresee two full working afternoons.
 
And finally I have to build a basement, not the definitive one. It must have some properties that allow me to work on the model comfortably and on a stable platform. The keel clamper used until now (is was blue painted) cannot be used for the future.
 
Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey.

 

Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Friday February 3rd, 2012

 

Quick update, without images.

 

Yesterday I have finished the 2nd planking . . and I can complete the installation of the stern post. This element is made with plywood and I have to cover it with veneer in the same way I've done with the keel. 

 

In addition I started to work around the stem, previously installed, by applying also there the same mahogany veneer. 

 

Today it is a very cold day, outside it's snowing, and this helps to stay at my workshop working. And I want now build a stable basement, a new platform capable to support the next tasks to be done on the hull until I will not judge it's time for the display case. 

 

That's all for today, Jack.Aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

Sunday February 5th, 2012

 

Here I'm attaching some images of my Soleil with 2nd planking completed, although not 100% because there are still the upper sides to finish, but this is a very simple job.
 
The main work is now over . . .
 
I will have to refine and level the hull by sand-papering with care, but in the reality there is not too much to level: it's more a matter of making this just to unify the wood colour. Some wood tends to become darker with the light and this is what happened on my hull: I spent a lot of time planking and there are many areas of the hull that show a different wood colour. By sanding everytihg in one shot the colour will become the same everywhere. May be these differences are not so evident in the photos but they are there.
 
See you soon, Jack.
 
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Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey

[jack.aubrey]

00 P1070976.jpg

 
The object shown above is the "working" pedestal I built for Soleil Royal. My objective was to prepare a stable base where to insert the hull and work on it in the next months. I have used a very strong plywood (it was a table used to prepare pasta) and I cut with my table saw (Proxxon FET): another experience with this tool and the proper blade.
 
The two longitudinal strips serve to contain the ship's keel: it enters perfectly inside the gap. At the two ends are some stoppers to keep the model horizontally avoiding any movement. Anyway, after a short period of usage, I have identified some changes because the stability is not exactly I expected and I find difficulties in handling the model due to lack of points of grasp. As soon as possible I will make the changes and I will show you. 
 
Now I take the opportunity to show two other images of Soleil Royal, with the hull capsized, where you can see how the planking resulted and where you can also see the keel.
 
Just to show you how the colour of chestnut changes in relation to its exposition to light, there is the possibility to see, in these images, two areas where the colour is different: the upper area is lighter because a fine sandpapering I made a couple of weeks ago, and below, there is a rectangular trace left by a piece of masking tape I didn't remove for some days. These are two examples why the complete sanding of the hull is necessary, and hopefully immediately followed by a coat of oil for wood to stabilize the wood ..
 
PS: I previously wrote about my initial intention to paint with dirty white the bottom of the hull, below the waterline. Now, after having seen the result I have to admit I'm beginning to change idea . . as usual in these situations, I will let the time to clarify my ideas before taking any final decision . . 
 
Cheers, Jack.Aubrey
 
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Edited August 31, 2017 by jack.aubrey