Stabilizing a bandsaw (edited by moderator)

[Nirvana]

However,

Many of the bandsaws I have going through during past night, this are the ones in the range of 9" and 100-150 USD

I found that all had the same type of motor - 120/240V, 2.5AMP

comes with a 6TPI blade.

Mostly what differs is the outer shell design, some has less volume (less resonance and vibrations) while other has a bulkier/squarer shape volumes.

No matter when it comes to buy a saw in this size, replace the blade to  better grade and screw down the unit (using water levelers) through a 1/8" rubber mat to a solid bench to eliminate vibrations and noise.

Attach noses for vacuum extraction.

Start sawing and hopefully you will have good outcome!

[Mike Y]

Rubber mat might not help - the body of the bandsaw acts like a big resonator... Learned it a hard way

[GLakie]

A few months ago, I picked up this Rikon 10" band saw model # 10-305, and found it to be really quiet, which is important here in an apartment type setting. It came with a 1/4" x 70-1/2" blade and 4 tpi, and will cut stock 4-15/16" thick. They run around $300 US. They are all steel and cast, with no plastic, a 1/3 horse motor at 3.5 amps, and come with a 5 year warranty. They are 77lbs, and as I said very quiet, not bolted down, and setting on wood.

[grsjax]

Bandsaws come from the factory needing a tune up.  There are several good websites and books available that go through a step by step procedure.  Not difficult to do unless something is really out of kilter.  Biggest single improvement is alining the wheels.  That alone will eliminate a lot of vibration.  Other things like truing up the tires and getting all the bolts tight will further improve things.  Take an hour to go through your new bandsaw and you will be much happier with its performance.

[GLakie]

I agree with that. It takes about an hour to go through and setting guide-bearings, thrust-bearings, making sure the wheels are running true with the blade centered. Then squaring up the table in the X and Y directions to the blade. These are things that need to be done with any of them to ensure good performance. 

[john_wilmer]

Don't forget that the job of the thrust bearing is only to keep the blade in place while the wood is pressing into it (creating a "thrust").  Ideally, the wheels are aligned true to each other and the blade tracks properly without the trust bearings holding it in place.  If you run this test with the thrust bearings set open and back from the blade, the blade should track in one position on its own.  (try turning the wheel by hand here, without power connected.)  If the blade will not track properly without the trust bearings holding it in place, realign the wheels, or suffer wobble, vibrations, worn thrust bearings and rough cuts.  Remember, the thrust bearings only gently cradle the blade to keep it from deflecting during a cut.

 

-John

[Bob Blarney]

I realize that most people don't have the money and/or space for a larger and well-constructed bandsaw (14"-18").   That said, before cutting valuable wood on any bandsaw, it might be a good idea to run the saw for a few minutes and cut some scrap wood, and then re-adjust the blade tension (and the saw if necessary).  As the saw runs for a bit, it will warm up and the blade tension may slacken and the blade will become more 'noodle-ly'.  Also, for thin wood as is often used in modeling, then maybe a blade for sawing metal might give better results than a wood blade.  Just don't over/under-feed it.

Edited May 15, 2015 by Bob Blarney

[GLakie]

This is a good blade for slicing thin stock or re-sawing. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx