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Posted

Here's where it got interesting for a new guy -- the mysterious world of planking the hull.  

I don't have a lot to add to the instructions and the excellent build logs of the experienced folks.

I would like to hear from others on their techniques for clamping the planks.  I found the "binder clip" plank holders a great help at the beginning, but needed other methods when the hull got "curvy" or the balsa blocking got in the way.

Here's a pic of a few ways I found to clamp the planking with appropriate inward and downward pressure.

 

post-1310-0-21339100-1436320820_thumb.jpg

 

The binder clip upside down

A small binder clip with a piece of planking

A piece of scrap wood pulled down snugly with a rubber band

T-pins are useful in some situations

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

Paused the planking to add the tree nailing.  

 

I used the technique used in the instruction manual of drilling holes and filling them with filler.

 

I first tried a 3/64" bit, but that turned out to be too big for my tastes.  A 1/32" bit worked well.  I used a pin vise drill.  I bet a Dremel tool with a flex shaft would have been a lot easier but I couldn't find my extra small chuck adaptor to hold the very small drill bit.

 

 

post-1310-0-36311700-1436321841_thumb.jpg

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

The instructions show the wales painted black at this point.  There really is no problem waiting to paint and stain until a bit later.  You will do some painting after the hull planking is complete.  But, it is very satisfying seeing your treenailing framed by the nice black wales.  For that reason I went ahead and painted the wales.

 

 

post-1310-0-13600600-1436322351_thumb.jpg

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

The tight curve at the stern gave me the biggest challenge.  I didn't take any pictures, but here's how I handled it.  After gluing the plank on from the bow to near the stern, I'd leave the last couple of inches hanging free.  I would wrap a very wet piece of paper towel around the plank and let it soak for while (20-30 minutes) until vey soft.  That would allow the plank to form around the tight turns. As one plank was soaking, I'd start working on the next plank on the opposite side to keep the job moving.

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

So far, I've been building on top of my "DeskMate".  But to draw the waterline, I finally had to put together a building board.  I also used some scrap MDF to make my waterline marking jig borrowing ideas from the many samples on the website.

 

 

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Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

I painted above the waterline, actually going about 1/8" below the line to make sure there were no uncovered areas when the coppering reached this area.

 

I was cheap and used regular masking tape.  I tried my best to get good adherence with the tape but still had some bleeding under the tape.  That's not a big deal on the hull where it will be covered with copper, but it's a really big deal when it bleeds on to the planking around the gun ports.  That ended up costing me extra time doing extra sanding.  I've read about good results using Tamiya masking tape on other building logs.  Probably a good investment.

 

And that brings me up to date.

 

 

post-1310-0-52721000-1436324879_thumb.jpg

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

That's a LOT of progress.  Glad you decided to plank as well as possible even though she'll be coppered.  Just one suggestion --- you might want to invest in a set of smaller drills...... sizes #60-80.  They will come in handy very often as you move through the build.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Local hobby store may have them.  Model Expo and MicroMark have them in sets.  Not really expensive.  They are generally used with a smaller pin vise as they won't take much force.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

Posted

Thanks for the suggestion Augie.  I suppose that's a special order item.  I doubt Sears has those bits on the shelf.

 

Amazon is one of my best friends.  I should own their stock.  I found this set very nice, as it comes with 5 of each size, in a nice case that has plenty of space to label each spot with both metric and english measurements for easy reference,  and you *will* break those little buggers.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O0G0ZS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00

Posted

Looking good Eric.... keep it going. 

Current/But Not immediate Build Logs

 

I am still gathering the tools I need but starting preliminary work. Nothing to show just yet.

 

Fair American

Armed Virginia Sloop.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Great skills there.. Hard to see you are a first-timer. Cant imagine how great the next ship will look... keep up the good work. You have convinced me that the Syren is gonna be my next build instead off the Granado from Caldercraft... 

 

Gundorph  :)

Current Build:

 

U.S. Brig Syren 

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Okay, I admit it - I'm really lousy at keeping my log up to date.  So here's some catching up...

 

After completing the exterior planking, I paused for a couple days just looking at the ship and taking stock.  Unfortunately, I didn't like what I saw.  Specifically, the treenailing was garish.  Too big, and too dark.  So I made the decision to paint the planking yellow ochre, thereby covering up my mistake.  I actually like it painted, even though that was not my original intent.  The treenailing faintly shows thru the paint giving a nice effect in my opinion.

 

post-1310-0-05817700-1443742542_thumb.jpg

 

post-1310-0-52339600-1443742576_thumb.jpg

 

post-1310-0-73215100-1443742601_thumb.jpg

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

Next I worked on the moulding strips for the transom.  I wanted to prebend the strips to ease the process of attaching them to the transom.  So I made a simple jig, using the plans to create the correct curve.

After soaking the strips, I attached them to the jig and let them dry.  

post-1310-0-03185500-1443743905_thumb.jpg

 

As you can see in the picture, even after drying completely, the strips did not hold the curve completely.  So if you use this technique for your ship, exaggerate the curve a little bit on your jig.  

 

post-1310-0-68430100-1443743923_thumb.jpg

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

I wanted to add beading to the moulding strips, as pictured in Chuck's instructions.  I tried to create the bead on the strips freehand, but just couldn't get a straight line.  My stylus would follow the grain and drift off the centerline ruining the piece.  So I made a very simple jig out of scrap material.

 

It's nothing more than a couple pieces of planking glued on top of plywood creating a channel just wide enough for the the moulding strip.  I predrilled a hole to tightly hold a T-pin just poking thru the center of the channel.  By pulling the strips thru this jig I was able to get a decent beading effect.

 

post-1310-0-16063500-1443744460_thumb.jpg

 

Adding the moulding to the transom...

 

post-1310-0-06534200-1443744504_thumb.jpg

 

Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

Preparing for the interior bulwark planking.  I couldn't stand the thought of thinning down the bulwarks with a sanding block, so I used my electric detail sander.  To keep the edge of the sander from chewing up the deck framing too much, i laid down a layer of duct tape.

 

post-1310-0-82820200-1443745233_thumb.jpg

 

Then the planking is laid in.  Since the interior planking is flush with ports, I elected to overlay the planking over the ports, then cut flush with the hobby knife and sand to match.

 

post-1310-0-98008100-1443745405_thumb.jpg

 

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Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit
Posted

Really nice job Eric,  I like the effect of the nails through the color as yo mentioned - looks great!  I know this is your first kit - but wouldn't know it!!

 

I'm adding your syren to my follow list - I have one myself, sitting on the shelf and will stay there for now - partly because of other kits to get done first but mainly out of fear!!! =)

 

Great job - keep er going!!!

-Adam

 

Current Builds

Santa Maria - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

MayFlower - Model Shipways (5/32"=1') POB
Blue Shadow - Mamoli Revolutionary War Brigantine. (Fict) (1:64) POB (Recommissioned as the Kara June)

 

On The Shelf Waiting so Patiently

USRC Ranger - Corel (1:50) POB

18th Century Longboat - Model Shipways (1:4) POF

La Nina - Artesania Latina (1:65) POB

U.S Brig Syren - Model Shipways (1:64) POB

 

Completed Builds

Phantom NY Pilot Boat - Model Shipways (1:96) Solid Hull

 

Decommissioned Builds
(Time and conditions were not good to these. They have been cancelled =( )

Willie L Bennett - Model Shipways (1:32) POF
USRC Harriet Lane - Model Shipways (1:128) Solid Hull

 

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