Question on false seizing / zip seizing

[slagoon]

Guys, on the OLD MSW there were some folks teaching the zip seizing method that is explained on the dummies site....well, I've been trying over and over and can't get my seizings to come free of the rod I'm trying to attach them with....I've tried gap filling CA (and that sort of worked but looked horrible) and so I tried thin CA as recommended on the dummies site....I can't get the seizing to come free of the rod.  When I do get it free of the rod it has all been shredded to pieces. I also tried waxing the rod first to add a little thickness that I could then melt away but that didn't work either...help please?

[xavjar]

Hi,

 

I had the same issue whilst building my HM Pickle I tried different types of CA and lubricants and as you say the seizing just shredded when I tried to remove it from the rod. In the end I found that the best glue to use was clear fabric glue, run a small amount down the thread before wrapping it around the rod - wipe of the excess and leave to dry. It comes of the rod easily and is sets nice and strong.

 

Hope this is of some use to you

 

Cheers Phil,

Edited March 20, 2013 by xavjar

[sawdust]

 Hello Sarah, I use Hubert's technique for zip seizing and after a number of trials and errors suggest the following:-

1.  Use drill shanks as the formers for creating your zip seizings.

2.  The metal faced hardwood strips are essential   for successful creation of the seizings . Debur the hole in the metal strip before use.

3.  Sand the shank of the drill .  Burs may have been created in its earlier use . I also roundoff the very end of the shank to reduce the chances snagging the seizing when removing it from the shank . 

4. When creating the seizings I maintain tension on thread by attaching weight to the free end.

5. I use my pair of  strips   to  compress the seizing befo before applying.

6. I apply glue sparingly using the end of a short length of fine  wire. I use Loctite thin CA. Avoid excess glue.

7. After a few seconds i push the seizing of the shank using the metalfaced hardwood strip.

with

8.I no longer use Wd40 or  Wax to lbricate the shank  as i found it sometimes contaminated the glue causing  the seizing to unravel.  I frequently clean the drill shank to avoid any glue build up.

9.  I allow my seizings to set for tenty four hours before use. 

10.  I usually make a whole bunch of seizings at a time and like Hubert  store them in a well organised container.

 I hope this is of use to you.

 Kip

[slagoon]

Hi guys thanks for the replies. I don't have any sheets of metal to create that lifter thing....so I'll pick some up in a couple weeks when I"m off from work again...but in the meantime I kept experimenting last night and figured out one idea that did work. I wrapped my wire in saran wrap and then did the seizing wrap. Once I put the CA on this time (and waited a couple mins) and it hardened I was able to pull the seizings and the saran wrap off the wire. Then once I cut the seizings down a bit I was able to use a drill bit that was nearly the inner diameter of the seizing and push the saran wrap out. It worked well enough....but I bet once I do get a piece of metal it'll help.  Thanks for all the tips

[sawdust]

 Hello Sarah , although I used Brass because I had some   , there is no reason why you couldnt use any sheet metal. A scrap from a tin can would suffice on a short term basis.

 Kip

[Gyber]

I got a big package of needles, and I use these for making the seizings.  I drill a small hole in a hard wood, then force the needle through the hole.  This gets a tight fit.  Put the needle in the wood, wrap the line around, and add thin CA.  I use pliers to move the needle after the glue is applied, then let the glue firm up a bit more, and then remove the needle.  The seizing comes off cleanly for me.  The only thing is to keep the needle clean.  I don't use any wax or other lubricant.  I don't see it is needed.   Robert

[slagoon]

Good idea Robert. I'll try that with some scrap I have leftover from my stand.

[Thanasis]

Hi mates.

Well my experiments have ended up to this result.

The difficulty to remove the seizing from any rod has to do with its length on it.

A short false seizing, can easier be removed than a long one.

Here is how I do mine.

I use a proper needle and the plastic cover (tube) of DIY plastic strings...(a cable can also be used).

I cut small pieces from the cover and put them between the short seizings while I make them (counting the turns...) on a needle.

Then I use thin CA glue only on the thread and after a while I give them some twists with my fingers. 

At the end I use pliers to hold the needle from one end and by the two fingers of my other hand, I hold and pull the whole stuff out of the needle. Then I separate the plastic from the thread and cut the seizings using a nail clipper.

 

Thanks

Edited June 15, 2013 by Thanasis

[Rich_engr]

Wow- I gotta try zip seizing now, because I've been doing the old-school, long-handed way of wrapping the spool of thread around the line to be seized, turn-by-turn...  doh!!

[twintrow]

Sarah

Are you waxing the shaft before wrapping it??  Must rub on some beeswax, then wrap, then a drop of thin CA. And wax every other seize, if not every one.  

Tom