US Brig Niagara by 6ohiocav - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[6ohiocav]

Yards

 

I worked on the lower yards.  Turned them on the lathe and filed the octagons with the flat file using my index key on the Jet lathe. I learned a few things.  Since these all will be painted black, I experimented with some of the wood in the shop before finally settling on my trusted cherry. I had some scrap holly and tried to turn one, but found the holly was not strong enough and as I got down to the small diameter, the length of the lower yard created too much wobble. I didn't like maple either, and as expected, my white oak had too much grain.  Cherry was the best.

 

Next up will be the upper yards.  I don't think I can turn them on the lathe since they are so thin, but I will try.  The alternative, the dreaded filing them by hand. All I can say is that I have gained a lot of experience doing that.

 

Some photos of the finished yards.

 

 

[mikiek]

Darrell -The classic method has you cutting a V shaped groove into a sheet of wood that's maybe about 1" thick. If you are starting your mast from square you drop the square into the groove and sand the corner that is exposed. Then you rotate your square 90 degrees and sand the next corner. This can work well however you end up needing several grooves cut a various depths for different sized squares.

 

I didn't like having all the grooves so I made a jig to help sand/file octagons in a mast. I have 2, one for larger squares and one for smaller. I posted it here at MSW

 

With the ability to adjust the ends you can actually do a tapered octagon, just close one end a little more than the other. A big improvement would be to get the adjustments metered somehow. I just did everything by eye, but my masts came out OK.

[6ohiocav]

Thanks for the insight.  I have seen those jigs, and I need to break down and make some. Good suggestion.

[6ohiocav]

Catheads

 

I finished the catheads and cut the chock rail and top rail, very carefully, to fit them in. I made these from scratch out of cherry. Turned out good. I will not actually attach them until I get the deck glued down.

[6ohiocav]

EYEBOLTS

 

Following Mikiek's suggestion, I am also going to get all of the hull fixtures done before I go any further. Seeing similiar looking jigs for the carronade eyebolts, I created my own that would service my diamond tipped dremel bit. This allowed me to quickly and accurately drill all of the holes. It took all of about 10 minutes. The widened collar and the jig prevent me from plunging the bit too far into the hull making the process safe. They all turned out square and consistently placed. Now all I have to do is to twist up about 160 eyebolts ---urgh!!

[mikiek]

That Dremel sure beats the pin vise!!!!!

 

Catheads look nice and solid. Are you going to paint all the cherry parts or stain?

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

The pin vice has its place, but not for the 160 holes I just drilled this morning.

 

No paint or stain for the cherry, just poly. Any part that the plans ask for a natural finish, I will do in cherry stock. Making the parts is good practice, but very time consuming. Some of the items that get paint I will do in the bass wood.

[mikiek]

Now you have me looking into some sort of a cordless hand drill. What took you probably 2-3 seconds per hole took me about a minute. And I'll bet yours are better.

[6ohiocav]

Eyebolts

 

.... and more eyebolts.  I twisted up 160. Took most of the evening.  Started with 24 gauge black and used a small drill bit mounted in my bench vice. Not very efficient.  Too many thumbs, and i was handling each one way too much. too many drops and just too slow.

 

So I used my micro plyers with rounded jaws. Wow, what a difference. Much more efficient and they never leave the jaws of the pliers until done.  Not sure  a topic worth photographing,but I add some just the same to show the process.

[mikiek]

Darrell - what size drill bit does it take to make a hole for one?

[GuntherMT]

You have a great looking Niagara going there Darrell!

 

I think you made a superb choice in using your own wood for the masting instead of using dowels.  Another wood to look at for future use for this if you want to leave the masting unpainted is Castello Boxwood.  It has a very fine grain and is as good to work with as Holly.  I used all Castello for the masting (including yards and bowsprit) on my AVS build and I'm very happy with the result.

 

As far as leaving the bowsprit unpainted... that's certainly a builders choice thing, just go with whichever way you think it will look good, as ultimately you are the one who will enjoy looking at the finished ship on the shelf every day.

 

The black hull looks good, but just as information (I certainly wouldn't change it at this point), the actual Niagara does use a different color below the waterline.  I was able to find an interesting photo from a haul out, but unfortunately Google gave me nothing as far as what it looked at just prior to be put back into the water.

 

 

Looks like a two-color stripe along the waterline, and then some indeterminate color below that.  Based on the faint coloration right below the waterline paint stripes, it could be a green, but whatever color it is, the water-flow has so badly eroded it that it's fairly difficult to be sure.  I've seen the same effect on the Pride of Baltimore II on her haul out photo's, the erosion from the water nearly completely removes the paint from the hull between haul outs.

 

 

I did notice one thing in your very first post with the current photo's.  The guns have not been painted black inside the barrels.  This is something that is very easy to fix, and I think you should do, as especially under the light of flash photographs, the fact that it's not black inside the barrel really jumps out.  Just use a fine brush and a matte black paint and swish it around inside each barrel.

[mikiek]

Right on with the boxwood!

 

One thing to keep in mind (a lesson I have learned) is the kit is a representation of the Niagara build of today. Choices were made, deviations implemented for modern times, smaller crew, etc.  Building an exact replica was not possible as there is nothing but a few paintings and verbal descriptions of the original.

 

The original colors were most likely not the colors seen on the replica. In fact there is one school of thought that given the build circumstances at the time, it may not have been painted at all. Even if it was, the colors available in Erie at that time (can you say out in the stix) would have been extremely limited. Many say the entire exterior hull was black.

 

The question is are you just following the kit - I think not (no problem there). Are you wanting to build a 20th century replica, get closer to the real thing or do your own thing?

Edited June 12, 2016 by mikiek

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I was afraid you would ask me that. I don't know the size.  It is from a Dremel carving kit.  It is bit "105". There is no size given but it is perfect for these rings.I used it to drill all of the holes for the rings in the gun carriages.

 

I am adding a picture of the kit.  My kids got me this years ago before I started this ship, and this has come in handy on numerous occasions. I used the larger diamond tipped bit to cut out my gun ports.

 

It is a bit hard to handle without a jig, but with a jig, the tapered collar is perfect for plunge drilling. The thick collar prevents the bit from going too deep and you can zip right along.

[6ohiocav]

Brian,

 

Thanks for stopping in. Paint is such a nemisis. Using the various hardwoods I have available puts me in my comfort zone with stains, dyes and finishes.

 

I am caught between centuries with my Niagara. Both of my parents were born 30 miles from Erie, Pa, where Noah Brown built the original ship in 1813. I am more interested in the historical ship, and realize that the current ship is pretty much a replica, and the kit, which is a real good one, is of the replica.

 

I often think of what Noah Brown would have done- or better yet- could have done.  The ship and her sister ship the Lawrence were built in a true wilderness, and in an incredible short amount of time (much less than what it will take to finish my model). While blessed with a plethera of natural materials, everything else had to be sent from Pittsburgh, 70 miles south over cow paths. Was the orginal ship painted? I am not sure we know.

 

In the end, I will be drifting back and forth between the 1813 version and the 1988 one. If anyone has ANY GUIDANCE ON THE 1813 VERSION, PLEASE SEND IT ALONG.

 

I am totally on board with the use of boxwood. The wonderful ships on this forum, including your fabulous AVS, can't be made out of basswood. It is rather ironic. For years in my amatuer furniture making endeavors, I have searched high and low for wonderfully grained woods. Now I am looking for wood that has no grain.  Go figure.

 

Finally, you have a keen eye. The inside of my carronade barrels are not painted  because I shoved a very small dowel stick in the barrels and speared them into a bar of styrofoam so I could paint them. The dowels fit so good, I actually thought I would make some red tompians, but have since abandoned that idea and will be painting the inside barrels with a brush.

[xken]

Darrell, I am sure you may already know of Keim Lumber in Charm, Ohio, but if you do not a must visit. They have a great selection of exotic woods from around the world and also have a chops box of these woods with some great finds for model building at reasonable prices. Well worth a visit!

 

Back on my computer here is a link. Just wish we had a place like this near us in California.

http://www.keimlumber.com/exoticwoods

Edited June 13, 2016 by xken

[mikiek]

Darrell - I'm with you. The historical version is what I am working towards. See page 7 post 129 of my log. Joel (jbshan) has 2 excellent write ups on the historical Niagara. He's done a lot of research and put together some interesting theories - all of which I buy into. 

 

There are a number of excellent books regarding the Battle of Lake Erie. Understanding the conditions and reasoning behind the building of Niagara has helped me shape the image of what I want my build to look like. My problem is/was that I had already started the build before I became aware of it all.

 

If you are the book reading type I can dig up a few titles if you like.

[6ohiocav]

Ken,

 

I have been a Keim's customer for years. The exotic wood section is incredible. It is like a candy shop for us. I get all of my curly maple there for my other hobby. I got my Holly board there. Most of my high end power tools are from their.  The rest were purchased at the annual Hartville Hardware Tool Sale. You probably know that place as well.

 

Being so close to Ohio Amish country, and with good connections, wood stock is plentiful and reasonable.

 

By the way, Keims has a 5 inch diameter unmilled American Boxwood crotch log that they tried to sell me last month. If you go to the site you listed and search "Boxwood", you can see it. They wanted $900 which shocked me, but would give me a good discount since I am a customer. I thought about it.....but figured you were paying a premium for the crotch, which probably means more grain than we want. I can probably get it for half price.  Anyone interested in splitting it (literally).

[6ohiocav]

Mike,

 

I am avid military history reader and civil war reenactor. I am currently reading or have read everything I could find on the Age of Sail

 

Just finished.

 

Six Frigates - Ian Toll (his trilogy on the Pacific War is real good too)

​Ships of Oak, Guns of Iron - Ronald Utt

1812: The Navy's War - George Daughan

Broadsides: The Age of Fighting Ships - Nathan Miller

Struggle for Sea Power - Sam Willis

In the Hour of Victory - Sam Willis

A Brief History of fighting Ships - David Davies 

 

Currently Reading

 

Give me a Fast Ship - Tim McGrath

 

I am always looking for suggestions, so fire away. I would recommend all of these books.

[6ohiocav]

Spanker Boom

 

Back to the lathe where I feel comfortable to get a break from the tedious gun mounting project.

 

This is a tough piece to turn.  It is 11 inches long with a 3/16 inch max diameter.  That makes the piece unstable and subject to wobble.  The key, sharp tools and take your time.

 

1. Get the middle down to 3/16.

2. Turn the outside end to 1/8 and cut the taper. It is always better to work on the side on the spindle first, since it will be the most unstable.  Keeping the beef at the chuck end will help keep the stock stable

3 Turn the side on the chuck to 1/8, cut the taper and create the shoulder.

 

Some photos of the process. Again, all made out of cherry

 

 

 

 

 

 

[6ohiocav]

Spanker Boom Jaws

 

This is a challenge.  Screw this up and you will back at the lathe to turn a new spanker boom.

 

Since this is going to be painted black, I chose to use the laser cut jaws (one less piece to cut from my cherry). I used the piece to trace the taper on the boom. I made a tick mark at the top of the boom to use as a reference point while I sand the sides flat to accept the jaws.  Then I carefully take the end down on my bench sander.  I put a 400 grit pad on the disc so that it doesnt take too much.  But you still have to be careful.  It will remove material pretty quick.  After some hand sanding, I got it to fit and glued it up.

 

 

 

 

[mikiek]

Is all your cherry the same color? The mast stock looks more red.

 

Have you tried a steady rest on your lathe? It sure helped me.

[6ohiocav]

Mike

 

All of the parts and masts are from the same board. Everything is the same color.  I am taking pictures with two different cameras and it is the light.

 

I don't have a steady rest, but sure could use one.  Sounds like a good father's day present to myself.

[mikiek]

I'm no lathe expert and I'm sure my technique is all wrong. But the rest allowed me to put some pressure on the stick and it sanded down a lot faster.

[6ohiocav]

Spanker Gaff and Spritsail Yard

 

More turnings.  I wanted to knock out some of the more delicate pieces on the lathe.

 

The spanker gaff was a real challenge.  I broke the first one trying to turn the small shoulder, and then on the second, I discovered a defect in the cherry stock right about the time that I got to the desired radius.  On my third try, I simply turned the stock to the1/8 diameter, and then decided to carve the shoulder by hand.  The plans call for an eye bolt at the end of the spanker, so I drilled the hole BEFORE I tried to carve the end down to 1/16. After some careful work with the x-acto knife and sanding pads, I obtained a desirable result.

 

The spritsail yard was a little more routine.  Careful work with the gouge and some sanding.

 

These two parts took all night.  Tomorrow, I hope to sucessfully attach the bee to the spanker gaff.

[6ohiocav]

Spanker Gaff

 

I did some further work on the spanker gaff.  As I did with the spanker gaff,  I carefully sanded the ends on the bench sander and glued on the jaws.  I also inserted and glued the eye bolt.

[6ohiocav]

Royal and Topgallant Yards,

 

I worked on the final set of yards. These were the toughest, due to their small diameter.  Again, done in cherry, done slowly on the lathe with a sharp mini gouge, files and a lot of sanding.

 

Next up are a series of eye bolts for jackstays on the Course, Topsail, and Topgallant yards.  I have an idea for a jig to use with my plunge bit for the dremel.  I will be working on that tomorrow.

 

After that, off to the paint booth with all of the masts, bowsprit and yards.

 

 

[6ohiocav]

​Skylights

 

​​Still working on deck structures.  Months ago, I built the three skylights.  I built them out of bass wood strips per the plans. This was a tedious project that took me days to accomplish. The plans call for the structures to be painted, and all one color, walls, frames and roof.  To be fair, the current ship's skylights are indeed painted a light brown - and all one color.

 

I have viewed posts on this site, and agree with the commenters that these skylights are probably a modern addition, and would not have been present on the 1813 version, at least in this form.  I would imagine however that there would have been some form of structure that would allow light in the hold and protection from rain.

 

Deciding to go with the structures as planned, I decide to forego the all one color.  I elected to line the roofs with cherry strip wood, that I would not paint. I masked off the roofs and sanded and primed the walls, and they sat in my make-shift paint booth waiting for me to find an acceptable beige paint. 

 

I looked at those skylights for weeks, and every time I did, I just did not think I could paint them to look good enough. So, I decided to scrap the existing structures and start over. I have learned that anytime I can avoid painting something, that is a preferable way to go. This time, I would build the walls out of of holly, and would mill some small cherry strip wood for the roofs, window sills and window covers.

 

As I learned the first time around, I cut out balsa blocks to the size of the skylights and used that as a support to build around.  It assured that the structures were square, and made the work with the small strips easier.  I cut 45 degree but joints on my mini miter box.  Getting the right size is a challenge, but once achieved, a block clamped to the fence allowed me to cut multiple even sized strips.

 

I have provided pictures of the process.  The built skylight at the top was the first version out of bass wood with a coat of white primer. The end product of the new design out of holly and cherry was much more acceptable.

[mikiek]

Nicely done Darrell - your wood working skill is shining thru.

[GuntherMT]

Very nice, I like your idea to use the block to form the walls around, probably a lot easier than constructing a frame (and keeping it squared up) and then planking over it like I did for my companionway.

[6ohiocav]

Brian and Mike,

 

Thanks for stopping in. While it might be obvious, I failed to mention that I remove the block after the walls are constructed.  The block not only keeps the structure square, it also allows you to keep the vertical walls plumb. I glue the butt joints and the horizontal surfaces which allows you to build these things without a frame.

 

Laying the structures along the cherry deck looks pretty good.

 

I have to work on the companionway tonight.  That is a much more complicated structure with the sliding roof and door way.