Kurt Johnson Posted December 29, 2016 #1 Posted December 29, 2016 What blades are considered the best for cutting boxwood or pear with a jeweler's saw or fret saw? Kurt Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
mtaylor Posted December 30, 2016 #2 Posted December 30, 2016 By best, what do you mean, Kurt? Blade selection is based on teeth per inch and ensuring at least 3 teeth on cut at all times. I tend to use Sawbird's blades or Olson's... depending. Side note: Some blades for the scroll saw are reversed tooth at the bottom of the blade to reduce the chances of tear out. Jack12477 and Canute 2 Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
Kurt Johnson Posted December 30, 2016 Author #3 Posted December 30, 2016 I was referring to tooth combinations, skip, reverse, etc. I was wondering if a particular type gave better control with hardwoods to enable better precision. I have usually used Olson in the past but on a power scroll saw, not by hand. Kurt mtaylor and Canute 2 Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
mtaylor Posted December 30, 2016 #4 Posted December 30, 2016 Kurt, I'm still sorting things out myself. I've found that if I can use it in my scroll saw, it'll work in the jewelers and fret frames. Canute 1 Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
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