Need help making windows/door @ 1:140 scale

[jarero]

I am just starting to work on my second model which is an old Scientific Robert E Lee SS.  I got to the point this weekend of making my first set of windows and I am not happy with the outcome.  If anyone can help or share how they have made similar items please let me know!

 

I used 1/16" x 1/16" basswood around a jig to make the frame.  The cross bars between window panes are polystyrene.  After I build the frame I sand it down to about half its thickness (this was the smallest wood in the hobby store).

 

This is the result:

 

[RiverRat]

Would you consider heavy paper? Such as business-card stock, note cards, manila folder....

 

These would seem to be a good scale thickness.

 

Brian

[jarero]

Would you consider heavy paper? Such as business-card stock, note cards, manila folder....

 

These would seem to be a good scale thickness.

 

Brian

Sure, I will try anything once. I can try a prototype and see what it looks like. Do you have any pictures or an example?

 

To give you a better idea of the directions in the kit basically said to use a template (provided), mark the corners and use a pen to draw the lines of the windows and doors. Can't do it, to cheesy.

[BareHook]

What if you use a solid piece .032 thick with the windows glass area cut out and emboss the frame edges with a knife edge? Not sure how easy it would be to cut out the glass area though.

 

Ken

[jarero]

What if you use a solid piece .032 thick with the windows glass area cut out and emboss the frame edges with a knife edge? Not sure how easy it would be to cut out the glass area though.

 

Ken

Thanks, another good suggestion. I will attempt this approach as well and see how it looks.

[RiverRat]

OK, I decided to try to make some myself (since I made the suggestion !)

 

I tried manila folder and notecard (index card) paper, using a #11 X-acto, cutting on a glass plate. I guess the glass was a mistake, as it dulled the blade quickly and made a mess of things. I tried some polystyrene cut from a laboratory weighing dish (approx 0.014" thick) also. After switching to my cutting mat, things got much better.

 

I liked the poly; after making the four panes, and before cutting the whole thing out of the sheet, one could if careful, shave the muntins to make them thinner. To cut out the outside, I simply pushed down with an X-acto chisel blade.

 

 

Here are some roughly 2 ft x 3 ft windows. Top are paper, cut on glass and mat. Bottom are poly. Coulda made 'em a bit nicer, but had to get back to planking..............

 

 

I cut two panes at a time, for alignment, mostly pressing blade down so not to slice too far, cutting four verticals, then the horizontals. I was starting to get a process and a rhythm going. Put on some good tunes and you'll have dozens made in no time(!), or maybe not.....

 

Cheers,

Brian

[wthilgen]

I built the same boat back in the 50's, for the windows I used small wooden matches. They came in a little rectangle box. Back in the day. Scientific's were all I could afford. I was only 8 or nine when I built my first. Had to cut the parts out by hand.

Edited April 9, 2013 by Billl

[gjdale]

One option to cut the holes from card would be to make two square, hollow punches from metal tubing (say, brass) of the right size profiles - one for the window panes, and a larger one for the whole window. I haven't tried this myself, but saw the method used by one of our members here on his Korean Turtle ship model. He was cutting hexagonal roof tiles, but the principle looks to be transferable to your situation.

[jarero]

I built the same boat back in the 50's, for the windows I used small wooden matches. They came in a little rectangle box. Back in the day. Scientific's were all I could afford. I was only 8 or nine when I built my first. Had to cut the parts out by hand.

I measured some wood matches and they are the same size as the basswood I used in my original attempt. Maybe if I was a little more talented I could have made it look better. The matches did temp me to light it on fire and pick a larger scale model though.

 

OK, I decided to try to make some myself (since I made the suggestion !)

 

I tried manila folder and notecard (index card) paper, using a #11 X-acto, cutting on a glass plate. I guess the glass was a mistake, as it dulled the blade quickly and made a mess of things. I tried some polystyrene cut from a laboratory weighing dish (approx 0.014" thick) also. After switching to my cutting mat, things got much better.

 

I liked the poly; after making the four panes, and before cutting the whole thing out of the sheet, one could if careful, shave the muntins to make them thinner. To cut out the outside, I simply pushed down with an X-acto chisel blade.

 

PolySheet.jpg

 

Here are some roughly 2 ft x 3 ft windows. Top are paper, cut on glass and mat. Bottom are poly. Coulda made 'em a bit nicer, but had to get back to planking..............

 

Windows.jpg

 

I cut two panes at a time, for alignment, mostly pressing blade down so not to slice too far, cutting four verticals, then the horizontals. I was starting to get a process and a rhythm going. Put on some good tunes and you'll have dozens made in no time(!), or maybe not.....

 

Cheers,

Brian

Thanks Brian! I attempted to make them from some folders as well and it was worse than my original window so I decided to try a more structured approach using the polystyrene.

 

Here is what my latest attempt looks like:

 

 

Compared to my previous attempt:

 

 

My crude jig (Henry Ford would be horrified):

 

 

I'm still not satisfied with the final product but I think I am much closer and I have a couple ideas now that should get me there. Thanks to all for the advise.

 

Jared

Edited April 9, 2013 by jarero

[Script]

Hi Jared,

 

Found your post.......but not a build log?      Anyway, it appears that your riverboat is about the same scale as mine...1/160...?  I'm somewhat amazed it didn't come with precast windows and doors.  Those things are awful tiny.  Don't know how you feel about mixing but maybe you could find an unfinished or incomplete version of the Amati R E Lee on e-bay and just use those parts? 

 

Best of building!

 

Cheers,

 

Jim