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Is this for the hull of the ship? Was the wood treated with any color previously?

Completed.... Charles W. Morgan,Sea Horse,USS Constitution,Virginia 1819,San Fransisco II, AL HMS Bounty 1:48

L'Herminione 1:96

Spanish Frigate,22 cannons 18th C. 1:35 scale.Scratch-built (Hull only)

Cutter Cheefull 1806 1:48 (with modifications)

 

Current Project: Orca (This is a 35" replica of the Orca boat from the movie Jaws)

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Lacquer has its own thinner.  The irritant factor of the traditional version is fierce - you will want to be breathing a different air supply.

The more recent "green" version is not an improvement in that regard.

Lacquer can be wiped on, but it is high gloss and builds thick layers.

Poly - polyurethane - is a plastic.  Works great to finish and protect a wooden floor.

Both tend to produce a thick, high gloss finish.  Great for a toy-like finish - if that is what you want.

I think a convenient factor with wipe-on poly - water is the solvent.

 

Shellac is a wipe on finish.  The depth and gloss can be controlled.

Shellac tinned 1:1 is an excellent primer coat. About anything else can be used over it.

Shellac uses alcohol - methanol or isopropanol 100% - or ethanol that has no water-  Shellac likes water - it likes it so much, that it turns white to show its joy.

Shellac and boiled linseed  oil is traditional vanish.

A shellac pad with a bit of linseed oil is French polish.

Pure Tung oil can be wiped on, thinned, 1:1 it is a primer coat, or done over Shellac, as many layer as you care to apply, but can take time to dry/polymerize.

Tung oil uses mineral spirits as a solvent.

Sutherland Wells sells a "cooked" Tung oil is several grades - pre polymerized - fewer layers - faster drying - gloss level a choice.

Renaissance Wax can be used over Shellac or Tung oil.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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2 hours ago, svein erik said:

hi, 

i cant get any minwax here in norway(wipe on poly)

but if i take 50% lacquer and 50% paint tinner will this work as same??

 

svein erik

Most likely not. lacquer is quite "hot" in that it dries quickly. "Paint thinner" (mineral spirits) may not be compatible with many lacquers which often use much more volatile solvents such as acetone. You can certainly experiment with lacquer and paint thinner on a test scrap of the same wood species and judge for yourself how it performs. 

 

It's not clear from your post what finish you wish to achieve, but you may which to try 50% boiled linseed oil and 50% turpentine and see how you like the results of that. If you want to add color, you can add a bit of ordinary oil-based stain to the mix to suit your tastes.

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