Copper layout for a clipper type ship?

[challenger]

Slowly workng away on the coppering on my Challenger tea-clipper. Could anyone point me in the direction of a typical copper plate layout for this type of hull? I know some of the plates have to be gored closer to the waterline, but where should I start from, at the moment i am on row 4 from the keel. Still got a long way to go.....

 

Thanks in advance for any help

 

Dave

Canada

[russ]

I would think Longridge's book on the Cutty Sark would have the coppering layout for that ship. It should be mighty close to yours. I know that Underhill discussed coppering and there is a sample layout in his Plank on Frame Models volume 1.

 

Russ

[challenger]

Hi Russ, thanks for the info on the copper I have a few books I use for referencing plus the MSW (best resource) all I need is a descent pic of how and when to start putting in my gores....

 

Thx

[Jim Lad]

Dave,

 

You might find this drawing helpful.  It's from "Plank on Frame Models Vol.1"  by Harold Underhill - an excellent book, by the way!

 

John

 

[ulrich]

Hi you'all,

the above drawing of the copper "belts" is very similar to Longridge's description in his book "Cutty Sark",which I have used building my model (Mantua). He also writes that the upper plate overlays the lower plate, the front overlays the back plate, thus starting the process of coppering a the keel and stern. This method was used on merchant ships, whereas the lower plate overlapping the upper plate was used on war ships, this according to Longridge. Other sources describe the later method also being used on merchant ships. Confusing!!

Does anyone have a clear understanding on this issue?

Regards,

Ulrich

[NenadM]

I find some clips on "Youtube" dedicated to coopering. Maybe there is some good idea ?

 

Possible criteria can be - what is seen when you finish and look at your model

Also suggest to find on Google Flicker and similar services pictures of cooper plate of existing Cutty Sark in London and to analyze that carefully. Maybe is solution there 

Edited July 8, 2013 by Nenad M

[Modeler12]

I assume that the bottom of the masking tape is the waterline. Looking at your pictures, I would suggest that you remove part of the last (fifth) row and put two strips of copper along the water line. Then you could fill in the rest with horizontal strips. 

That way I think you would be pretty close to what others suggested by way of the drawing.

[michaelpsutton2]

The plan set for the Cutty Sark by Campbell have a detailed coppering layout for what would have been a very similar vessel. Google "Cutty Sark" Plans

 

Here is a link to the museum shop at Greenwich for the plan, Cheap at 4 pounds

 

http://shop.rmg.co.uk/cutty-sark/collections/cutty-sark/product/cutty-sark-general-arrangement-plan.html

[von stetina]

I found that when I coppered my clipper Lightning that the copper layout turned out to be very simple. The hull shape of a clipper is very much different than a ship with fuller ends. The clipper's shape greatly simplified the layout.

 

Try laying out the copper by putting down long thin strips cut from wide masking tape, strips about 1/8 wide say. This will help you work it out visually. You will see that the belts will lay vey simply and few in number.  Fewer than in the books. I tried to match the books and found it made little sense to squeeze so many  belts in there, I doubt many real clippers over complicated things and used up extra materials doing it.

 

I hope my info isn't redundant, I've not read this whole conversation.

 

Can't wait to see your model of this famous tea clipper.

 

Von Stetina

 

building clipper Lightning 1/8 scale

Edited July 10, 2013 by von stetina

[von stetina]

Also, the copper is higher by a foot or so at the stern of clippers as the bow planes up at speed causing the stern to settle. Sail was reduced on the mizzen to help this.

 

Von Stetina