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Posted

I'm getting ready to install the pedestals and baseboard. Do I need to shorten the pedestal slots and add chamfers on the inside to align to the hull contour? Or are they just installed "as-is" with the keel not all the way to the bottom of the slot?

 

Thanks

Ken

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

Posted

So long as the keel is snug in the slots and the screws go up into the keel, the slightly different angle of the slot should not matter that much. From outside the slot, it should not show any differently.

 

Russ

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Nick:

You stll have to screw them into the keel because the screw has to go up through the baseboard to hold the pedestals in place. The only way for the screws to do their job to hold the pedestals is to screw into the keel. Otherwise, there is no point in using the pedestals.

 

Russ

Posted

Mine worked out fine for my AVS, as seen in my log. You have to be carefull in creating the countersinks for the screwheads on the bottom of the baseboards as this controls how deep the screw will be tapping into the keel.

 

Ken

Current Build: Authentic Hannah Kit Bash

Pending Continuation: Sea of Galilee Boat

 

Completed Build:  MS AVS

On Shelf: AL Independence, Blue Jacket Alfred

Posted

Before screwing to keel, pre-drill hole a two or three sizes smaller than needed. Increase to required diameter. Eliminates cracking keel.

Current Build:

La Nina, Latina - Wood / 1:65

 

On The Shelf:

San Francisco II, Latina - Wood 1/90,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic  / 1:96 (Remake),     H.M.S. Bounty, Latina - Wood / 1:48,     H.M.S. /Mayflower, Latina - Wood / 1:64,     La Pinta, Latina, Latina - Wood / 1:65,     La Santa Maria, Latina - Wood / 1:65,

 

Completed:

San Francisco / Cross Section, Latina - Wood / 1:50,     Coastal Submarine, Revell - Plastic / 1:144,     Cutty Sark Wall Plaque, Revell - Plastic / 1:50,     H.M.S. Victory, Revell - Plastic / 1:146,

H.M.S. Bounty, Constructo - Wood / 1:50,     Oseberg, Billings Boats - Wood / 1:25,     Clipper Ship (Sea Witch), Unknown - Wood / 1:46,     U.S.S. Constitution, Revell - Plastic / 1:96,    

Man Of War, Scientific - Wood / 1:50,     Robert E. Lee, Scientific - Wood / 1:45,     PT-109, Revell - Plastic / 1:72,     U.S.S. Enterprise, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,    

R.M.S. Titanic, Revell - Plastic / 1:720,     Numerous other wooded tall ships and boats from companies named: Ideal, Dumas, Pyro.

Posted (edited)

Is there a rull-of-thumb so to speak for the distance apart, of the pedestals for a specific scale model?  1/3 third looks abut to me, but I don't know if it's correct or not.

 

Thanks,

 

Tim

Edited by Timothy Wood

Tim 

 

Current Build:

 

 

 

 

 

Future Build:

  • BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull
  • BlueJacket - U.S.S. SAMUEL B. ROBERTS, DE413 | Butler-Class Destroyer Escort
  • BlueJacket - 310' Destroyer "The famous "four-piper" of both World Wars"
  • Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) 
  • Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack)
  • Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht)  
  • Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch)
  • Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit
  • Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build)
  • CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit)
  • Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit
  • Blue Ridge Models - USS Alaska CB-1 (Resin Kit)

 

Completed Builds:

                 

Member:

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

 

              

Posted

Rule of thirds seems to sit best but you're best to set it up roughly on that measurement and make sure it looks right. I've laid the pedestals on the full size plans to make sure it looks right. it could also depend on other factors like length of bowsprit. It's obviously got nothing to do with supporting the hull but its worth considering I'm building a bomb vessel with a sprit about a third as long again as the vessel and its worth just setting the pedestals either on the plans or under the hull if you've got that far and sticking a dummy pole on the front to make sure it still looks right.

Posted

Timmo,

 

Thanks that helps a bunch!  I never thought to set the pedestales against the full sized plans, thats a great idea.  :) 

 

Cheers,

Tim

Tim 

 

Current Build:

 

 

 

 

 

Future Build:

  • BlueJacket - USS Kidd (Fletcher Class Destroyer) Solid Hull
  • BlueJacket - U.S.S. SAMUEL B. ROBERTS, DE413 | Butler-Class Destroyer Escort
  • BlueJacket - 310' Destroyer "The famous "four-piper" of both World Wars"
  • Model Shipways - Pride of Baltimore II (Topsail Schooner) 
  • Model Shipways - Willie L. Bennett (Chesapeake Bay Skipjack)
  • Constructo - Pilar (Ernest Hemingway's Fishing Yacht)  
  • Sergal - Race Horse (Bomb Ketch)
  • Classic Warships - USS Salem CA-139 (Heavy Cruiser) Resin Kit
  • Pen Duick Schooner - Half Hull (Scratch Build)
  • CSA Submarine Hunley (Resin Kit)
  • Classic Warships - USS Washington BB-56 (Battleship) Resin Kit
  • Blue Ridge Models - USS Alaska CB-1 (Resin Kit)

 

Completed Builds:

                 

Member:

Hampton Roads Ship Model Society

 

              

  • 6 years later...
Posted

I make my pedestals from cut off chessmen from yard sales. Carefully drill your holes through the keel including a strengthening pad inside. Then securely bond a brass or stainless bolt from above.

Drill a close fitting hole through the middle of the 'pedestal' and cut a snug slot for the keel. Push it up the threaded part of bolt.

The bolt then goes through your base board and is secured with a recessed washer and nut.

Cheap and simples; works every time and doesn't move on a 3-4 foot model.

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