Fentone Posted December 24, 2020 Author #61 Posted December 24, 2020 Thanks for the help Mike, I will read those resources before continuing. However I have run into a mistake - I should have bent and cut the ends of these two planks before gluing. Somehow I misinterpreted the photo in modeller_massa's build to think he was doing what I've just done. So I'm going to attempt bending these planks in situ, maybe after soaking the tips in water so they draw it up through capillary action. This may be a terrible idea. But I want to find out. I am less worried about cutting, as I think patience and a million cuts of the scalpel will do the job. However before this can happen I need to repair a couple of fractures I accidentally made to the keel at both ends in the previous step, hence the two rubber bands. G.L. and Keithbrad80 2 Quote
Fentone Posted January 2, 2021 Author #62 Posted January 2, 2021 Soaking in situ. Worked for one end, the other less so, ended up charring the wood when bending on that side. G.L. 1 Quote
Fentone Posted January 2, 2021 Author #63 Posted January 2, 2021 A wing and a prayer. Required much force. G.L. 1 Quote
Fentone Posted January 2, 2021 Author #64 Posted January 2, 2021 Cutting with scalpel was easy, however sanding cleaned it up somewhat. Overall result not great, not terrible. Bow/stern taper end in slightly different places, however I'm reluctant to take any more off as I'm happy with the port/starboard symmetry, and I'm happy for the boat not to be perfectly symmetrical end to end. G.L. 1 Quote
Fentone Posted January 2, 2021 Author #65 Posted January 2, 2021 One end got a bit gnarlier than the other. Notice the slight difference in length. Could have gone a lot worse given the method. G.L., Keithbrad80 and BobG 3 Quote
Keithbrad80 Posted January 3, 2021 #66 Posted January 3, 2021 I think it looks pretty good, as long as it is symmetrical it will look good. In larger models the planks closes to the keel are called the garboard planks, they usually are thinner in the middle of the ship and flare upwards at the bow and stern. They are really important in larger models because they help keep the planks parallel and stops them from turning into a parabola. Well shaped garboard planks and an even taper will get you super crisp planks, if for some reason the garboard doesn’t shape the way you want it you can fix this by adjusting the taper at the bow and stern of your following planks. If done correctly it wont even be noticeable, honestly though for the size model you are doing this isn’t going to matter much. Just thought i would share some info on those planks and there importance, your model is going to look great as long as its symmetrical. Very nice work! Bradley Fentone 1 Quote Current Builds: Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96 Future Builds: Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72 Completed Builds: HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately) Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures) Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24 Shelved Builds: Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)
Keithbrad80 Posted January 30, 2021 #67 Posted January 30, 2021 Just wanted to see how the build was going? Bradley Quote Current Builds: Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96 Future Builds: Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72 Completed Builds: HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately) Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures) Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24 Shelved Builds: Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures)
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