Winchelsea Nef by AnchorClanker - Scale 1:96 - first wood scratch build

[ChiefClanker]

After looking at Louie da Flies model of the Winchelsea Nef, it seems my beams are to thick.  I will have to make some adjustments before going to much further, particularly the mast step.  Also, looking at his Grace Dieu rebuild, I am taking better notice of how the wood grain runs when cutting out frames and futtocks.  Also, I may have to make a different jig for attaching the frames to make sure they are squared up in three dimensions.  

 

A challenge to make the size of the parts as close to prototypical as possible.  At the smaller scales, that is a bit more difficult. Besides building my model in 1:96, I was thinking of also building it in 1:160.  And I’m saying to myself, “Good luck!”  My model railroad is 1:160.  Did they have nefs in the time of railroads??  On mine they did!  

 

[Louie da fly]

Yours is somewhat smaller scale than mine, which is 1:75, but there shouldn't be too much problem making framing close to the real proportions at your scale. And you'll find that despite the lightness of the framing, your hull will be very strong and sturdy. (well, ok, don't drop it on the floor and tread on it or run over it with a truck, but ueah, I think you'll be surprised how strong the structure ends up.)

 

There are several builds on MSW that have worthwhile jigs for squaring your build. I did a search using "lego jig" but didn't find any examples, but I do like Kikatinalong's jig (and he was a total newbie who just came up with a brilliant jig).

 

Steven 

[Roger Pellett]

Chief,

 

The major difficulty of building a POF model is lining the frames up plumb and square in three dimensions.  If this is not done accurately, your planking will not produce a fair hull. In other words you will have a lot of lumps and bumps in your planking.

 

Because of this, model builders usually use a system of jigs to line up the frames.  There are a number of systems.  Some involve building the hull right side up and some upside down.  Small craft are often built upside down over a solid carved plug or a set of moulds.  I suggest that before you saw out another set of frames you look through the build logs for scratch built models to find a jig system that you can adapt for your model.

 

Also, since you have some serious woodworking machinery, why limit your wood choices to hobby ship woods.  If I were you I would visit my local Menards to see what they offer.  Ours stocks a clear fine grained select pine (from New Zeeland!) that would appear to be far superior than anything from a hobby shop, and a decent sized plank will allow extra to account for mistakes.

 

Roger

[Louie da fly]

Here's an example of using Lego to make things square - 

 - but I have to say if you want something rather more stable, make something like Kikatinalong's jig - 

 - by no means the only possible configuration, but it might give you some ideas.

 

Steven

[ChiefClanker]

A friend volunteered to use his home build CNC laser to cut out my frames and keel.  After mounting the frames on the keel, it became clear how off my frames are despite, what I thought, extreme care in making sure they were correct.  Almost half the frames are off at the top.  It is back to the drawing board.  Literally.  I won’t finish this first attempt as originally planned.

 

Steve, thank you for the suggestions on jigs.  I will take a look at them.  When the keel and frames are cut out correctly, they ‘should’ be a ‘built-in’ jig.  

 

Abraham Lincoln once said if he were give eight hours to chop down a tree, he would spend six hours sharpening his axe.  Thank you to all of you who sharpened your axes!!     

[ChiefClanker]

My build is on hold for a bit.  Family activities, vacations, and needing to clean and organize my garage and build my work benches is taking my time for a few weeks.  Just to let you all know.  I haven't lost heart, but am eager to get back at it.  Consider this 'time off' as 'sharpening my ax.'  

 

Fair winds and following seas,

Chief Mark

    

[Louie da fly]

Good to hear from you, Mark, and to know you're still on-track, if slightly diverted for the time being . . . 

 

Steven

[ChiefClanker]

God provides. Yesterday a neighbor put a 10" band saw out for the garbage. She said it did not work.  If I wanted to take it and get it to work, it is mine.  It did not take much to make it run again.  It will be helpful for building ship models.  

[Chuck Seiler]

[Louie da fly]

Well done, sir!

 

Steven

[ChiefClanker]

I am making progress on my workshop.  My workbenches are almost designed.  One will be for making the parts and the other for assembling the parts.  In other words, one is the workshops and the other is the slipway.    

[ChiefClanker]

Recently a friend shared his woodworking shop was looking to reduce their inventory of table top drill presses.  So, I bought a five-speed model.  It works great!  It is also great to be able to help each other.  Attached is a photo.  

 

[Louie da fly]

Nice.

 

Steven

[ChiefClanker]

On 4/13/2022 at 7:55 PM, Roger Pellett said:

Chief,

 

The major difficulty of building a POF model is lining the frames up plumb and square in three dimensions.  If this is not done accurately, your planking will not produce a fair hull. In other words you will have a lot of lumps and bumps in your planking.

 

Because of this, model builders usually use a system of jigs to line up the frames.  There are a number of systems.  Some involve building the hull right side up and some upside down.  Small craft are often built upside down over a solid carved plug or a set of moulds.  I suggest that before you saw out another set of frames you look through the build logs for scratch built models to find a jig system that you can adapt for your model.

 

Also, since you have some serious woodworking machinery, why limit your wood choices to hobby ship woods.  If I were you I would visit my local Menards to see what they offer.  Ours stocks a clear fine grained select pine (from New Zeeland!) that would appear to be far superior than anything from a hobby shop, and a decent sized plank will allow extra to account for mistakes.

 

Roger

Roger,

That is great advice about wood.  I will check out Menards and look for other sources.  An acquaintance gave me his inventory of basswood, rough sawn.  I can cut my own planks etc.  Since I purchased a bit of hobby shop basswood, I plan on using it for this first model.  There will be enough for the model railroad as well.  So, for some of my subsequent ship models, I may try the pine from New Zealand.  

 

Has anyone used maple?  I have a couple four foot long five inch diameter maple logs waiting to be cut down to size. 

 

Mark

 

[ChiefClanker]

Other model builders have discouraged the use of pine apparently due to its penchant to warp and maybe splinter.  The pine from New Zealand must have properties negating these two possible undesirable traits.  This is interesting since many scout troops, church groups, and school use pine in their pinewood derbies including myself.  The cars have not splintered or warped, maybe because the cars are one chunk of wood, not thin strips.