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Louie da fly

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ballarat, Australia
  • Interests
    History, particularly the Middle Ages

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  1. Yeah, don't take too seriously what Aussies say about how dangerous Oz is. We like to take the p*ss . . . Steven
  2. Okay, so I've made the stem and sternposts. It took a bit of adjustment to get them to follow the line of the slots I'd cut in the plug. The plug is still in two halves, just held together with a G-clamp. That way I could adjust the slots until everything fitted. First I made the inner curve of each post approximate as closely as possible the curve of the slot But even that needed a bit of work - the slots on the two halves of the plug didn't quite line up. So with a bit of trial and error, and adjustment back and forth, I got the slot and the inner curves of the posts to mesh, so the posts would sit in the slots correctly. The two posts are not identical, so I marked them with pencil to tell them apart (B for bow, S for stern), and did the same for the plug and the keel. Then I took it all apart and adjusted the outside curve of each post to match the shape in the original picture on the city seal. I had originally thought to have the keel in a slot in the plug, but then I looked at the midships section of the Hedeby/Haithabu knarr and it seemed to be outside the body of the hull (see picture in my first post). So I decided to do it that way - to the degree that I glued in a bit of wood to fill in the slot I'd already cut in one side of the plug. But the more I thought about it, the more impractical it seemed to be - nothing seemed to work if I did it that way. And then of course it occurred to me - this is a nef, not a knarr - there's no reason to suppose the construction method was exactly the same in a non-Scandinavian ship. So I went back to my original idea, and it seems to work much better. The main issue was getting the scarph joints between the keel and the stem and sternposts exactly in the right place and fitting perfectly. If I stuffed it up I'd have to re-make either the keel or one of the end posts. I didn't get it perfect - one of the cuts wasn't exactly at right angles across the joint - but not too bad, and I used filler made of PVA (white) glue and sawdust to fill the tiny gap I'd left on one side of one of the joints. As you can see from the photos above I used cling-wrap to ensure the posts and keel didn't stick to the plug. Et voila! And I've succumbed to peer pressure and started on the crew - this is the helmsman under way (pear wood from the neighbour's tree and No. 11 craft knife) (yes, all right I did want to do it, really ) Steven
  3. Most of this is over my head - RC is a totally unknown field to me. (In my view anything more complex than a waterwheel is an instrument of the devil). The action looks good. The only comment I can make is that lower bank oarports apparently had leather sheaths to keep the water out. I'd intended to put them on my dromon, but (a) I never got round to it and (b) they wouldn't have been visible anyway. But you might consider it for your own model, which is at a larger scale than my own. I doubt that you could use leather, but perhaps thin vinyl or something similar? Steven
  4. Beautiful crisp work, Dick. It looks very good, and the proportions look just right. Steven
  5. Welcome to MSW, OmegaDragon! If you do want to restore this model, do a search under the word "restoration" or "restoring" (the search bar is at the top right of this page). You'll see quite a few nice restorations of old models, including decorator models, which should give you some good ideas. Given that these models are now about 100 years old, they form a historical artefact in their own right and are perhaps worth fixing up just because of that. Good to have you aboard! Steven
  6. Sorry, I know this is serious, but it immediately made me think of this (see 0:55) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVpypcLbbIE Steven
  7. Wonderful to see this restoration completed. You guys have done a wonderful job of returning "Harry" to his original glory, but preserving the patina of age. It's beautiful. Any chance of more photos from other angles? Steven
  8. Wow! I mean, just wow! The sides don't need to be rounded, mate - just the corners. What kind of plastic are you using for your 3d printing? I'd need probably 24 x 2mm deadeyes - but is it possible to make them 1mm as well, or is that asking too much of the technology? If it's possible, I'm going to need lots - probably more than 70(!) At the moment I'm having problems getting the glue to hold the strops to the deadeyes - I've tried CA and it just doesn't work. I've tried Tarzan's Grip, but it's too gooey. I'm going to try polystyrene cement when I can get some (i.e. after lockdown stops), and even PVA -even though it doesn't stick plastic it might hold the two sides of the strop together. Thanks so much for what you've been doing, Henry. Very much appreciated.
  9. We've always had them. No problem - you just have to get used to how they work. A lot better at intersections than traffic lights, though you occasionally see the results of people who didn't notice the roundabout (bent traffic signs etc) - but then they'd probably have run through a red light anyway. Apparently there are a lot fewer T-bones at roundabouts than at traffic lights. On the right. I assume it's on the left in countries where you drive on the right? Steven
  10. You wouldn't want to come Melbourne, then. In the inner city they have a strange thing called a "hook turn" at intersections. Keeping in mind that we drive on the left here, the rule is that if you want to turn RIGHT, you get in the LEFT lane and wait for the light to go amber, then turn right ACROSS the other lane. People from other States (and from elsewhere in Victoria, for that matter) get bamboozled by it on a regular basis. Oh, and it's further complicated by the fact that inner Melbourne has trams running down the streets as well. Steven
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