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Louie da fly

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  • Location
    Ballarat, Australia
  • Interests
    History, particularly the Middle Ages

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  1. Looks very good, Dick. I've become much more appreciative of windlasses now I've made one of my own. Yours is even simpler than mine, which is probably right because I just copied the one from the Mary Rose, which is from over 400 years later. Is there a particular reason for making it faceted? Steven
  2. By the way, if you're looking for resources, I've found Hearns Hobbies, under the arches at Flinders St Station, to be very helpful. Just got back from a visit to Melbourne with a tin of Humbrol paint and a piece of very small diameter brass tubing. (To be honest that's not why I went to Melbourne, but we were walking along the river nearby, so . . .) On the other hand, I take it your "local" in Ringwood is "Float a Boat" about which I've heard very good things. Steven
  3. Very nice work, David. I don't know how I missed this one - I love carracks and would normally have followed the build. But you've done an excellent job and she looks just like the Mataro ship (well, maybe a little newer 😉) Steven
  4. Very nice indeed. You can be justly proud of them. Steven
  5. Definitely McGyver! A clever solution to the problem, and looks pretty good, too, though I think I'd make the hole in the hull smaller - it doesn't need to be that big for the rudder/tiller combination to work. Yes, it's probably possible to turn tooth[picks in a clamped drill. There was a thread on this forum some time ago about someone making a poor man's lathe that way, and it seemed to work well. However, toothpicks are a bit rough and ready when you get them from the shop, so don't be suprised if you have a fair proportion of failures. Just keep at it - it should turn out ok with some practice and a bit of wastage. Steven
  6. Well, that's fixed, anyway. I've now put the port superstructure back in place and it now all lines up - at least as well as possible - any further discrepancies come from my 17-year old self not making it perfect in the first place. I was hoping to make the after face of the superstructure the same way it would have been back in the day, with the wales and the strakes made and installed individually, using the cardboard template to define the shape. Unfortunately it just didn't work out that way. I ended up having to make it out of a single sheet of wood (got it right on the second attempt), with the wales glued on the outside instead of forming part of the structure. There is now quite a gap between the lower hull and the port superstructure, which I will have to infill with a new strake. Still, it's now starting to look like the kind of stern you see in Bruegel's paintings, which has got to be a good thing . . . Steven
  7. Hi Kikatinalong, I've had a look at the Mamoli kit and it's a rather nice looking ship. While I agree you're taking on a pretty ambitious project, there's no reason you can't make something to be proud of, even though you may find a few things you aren't totally satisfied with on this, your first build. One thing that might help you, as well as the advice above, particularly from pontiachedmark and knightyo, is to look at the planking tutorials on this forum in the section " Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck" - Planking is a particularly fiddly activity and it's good to have an understanding of the technique before you start. Some kits advocate an oversimplified method of planking which doesn't correspond to the reality, but looking at pictures of your kit, that doesn't seem to be the case. And as you're building a carrack, I'd highly recommend Woodrat's excellent build as a reference. What's not included in that is hardly worth knowing. And as several others have suggested, ask LOTS of questions. The people on this forum are invariably helpful and someone will probably have already found an answer to the problem you're faced with. Best wishes with your build, and start a build log to share your triumphs and problems with the rest of us. PS: Where do you live? As you can see, I'm in Ballarat. You might find other members who aren't all that far from you. Steven
  8. Well, why not, Rick? Sounds like something worthwhile to do. And who knows you might get back on it and get a lot of enjoyment from it. Steven
  9. However, whether the Mayflower was painted is another question. She was a fairly small merchant vessel, not a top of the line navy ship. She might have been painted, but as we know almost nothing about her except her approximate size, that she was hired by a bunch of people who weren't all that well off and that she was fairly old in 1620, your guess is as good as mine. There was a reconstruction built of Mayflower in 1957, which was sailed across the Atlantic and is still in Plimouth Plantation. She has a bit of decorative paintwork - do a google image search for Mayflower replica and you'll see her. Apparently a new reconstruction is being built at the moment, but I couldn't find any pictures of her.
  10. Well, I started adding more slivers between the port superstructure and the lower hull, and cutting them back flush with the planking. Then an AAAAARGGGHHH moment, I'm afraid. I've discovered that I'd got the position and alignment of the port superstructure wrong. You can see it on the following photos. When I started putting in cross-pieces at the stern I realised the starboard side was higher than the port, so the crosspieces weren't square. You can see the difference in angle between the top crosspieces and the one at the bottom, which is the only one that's correct. I could have left it as it was - "she'll be right" - but I know it would have sneered at me from then on, and I'd have cursed myself for not fixing it when I could have. So I've removed it again (thank heaven for isopropanol) so I can fix it properly. I've made a cardboard template which will be used to get the shape of the after end of the aftercastle right. I'll be able to re-use all the bits, but it's rather annoying. In retrospect, I don't think there was any easy way to avoid this problem. There were too many variables - I just had to try it and see how it worked. But perhaps I could have thought it out better in advance instead of charging in like a bull at a gate. Sigh. Steven
  11. Superb as usual, Xavier! The quality of your work is consistently excellent and inspirational. Steven
  12. Hi Phil, You're doing a good job with your cog. You'll find all kinds of models on this forum, including even some 3D digital ones for gaming (plus an embroidered portrait of HMS Agamemnon in cross-stitch), so don't worry about your balsa wood one. It's all about the enjoyment of the build, not about impressing people - though some of the builds on this forum leave me slack-jawed with awe. I love mediaeval and renaissance ships, and the cog is a particularly attractive one. I think for the purpose you're building it for, your cog is totally ok, and your construction method is quite adequate for the job the ship is to do. A lot of ship models (including my own) fudge the bits that are below decks. "If you can't see it, it's not there". You might like to get some more information on cogs (if you don't have it already) from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bremen_cog and https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/owKSqVwIBfJGJw . Though many cogs had rectangular forecastles, the Bremen cog doesn't seem to have had one (though it seems to have been under construction when it sank - maybe they hadn't got around to adding the forecastle yet?). I think Luponero's idea (he's writing in Italian and Google is translating into English for him) is to cut a small hole in the stern, and add a rudder with a fake tiller that just goes through the hole and stops. My own opinion is that you should add an aftercastle like on the Bremen cog. At this time the castles weren't integral with the hull- they were sort of just "plonked" onto ships as an afterthought. If you compare your model with the pictures of the Bremen cog, and particularly the model on the second link above, you can see that the sternpost that supports the rudder goes up on an angle, following the angle of the hull, and the rudder is swung from that. I think you should trim the sternpost to be like that and then add a rudder (which is what I think you had in mind in your post #5 above) , and the rudder comes up through the aftercastle, the tiller can be above the deck of the aftercastle, which is what I believe you are after. I hope that makes sense. Oh, by the way your Viking boat at the top would be better called a faering (four-oared boat). A knarr was a fairly large merchant/cargo ship. Keep up the good work, and if by any chance you do go over to the Dark Side and get into serious modelling, you'll find this community very friendly and helpful. Steven
  13. Pat, I'm pretty sure the Hamble River remains are of Henry V's (the Agincourt guy) Grace Dieu. My model is of Henry VIII's (the guy with VIII wives) Henry Grace a Dieu. Different ships with similar names, over 100 years apart. Having said that, I think the Grace Dieu is fascinating as well. She was enormous for the time; if I remember correctly she was about the size of the Victory - in comparison with other ships of the era she was sort of like the Great Eastern compared with the Sirius. There was (and still may be) a set of lines for the surviving hull on the Net. I think this might have been connected with the Time Team investigation of maybe a decade ago done by echo-location, I think. As usual, only below the waterline has survived, and you could only get a small picture taken from an angle which was all but useless. I've meant to contact whoever's in charge to get a proper copy of them but never got around to it. Steven

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