Zack Soderquist Posted April 8, 2023 Author Share #31 Posted April 8, 2023 Step 15 Inwales. Got out my trusty plank bender and wetted the inwales and went to work bending the inwales. I found by putting a light pencil mark on the inwale and top of the top plank, it made it easier to line up as I was carefully bending and dry fitting. First one went in pretty well. Took a lot of back and forth with the sanding stick to get it to slide in at the bow. Second one I thought I'd cut the inwale a little closer to avoid some sanding but ending up cutting a little too much and now have a gap. Note to self - stop taking short cuts. I will use a little Natural colored wood filler to clean up gaps between the bow and inwale. Ryland Craze, Bryan Woods and druxey 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #32 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 15 Inwales. Got out my trusty plank bender and wetted the inwales and went to work bending the inwales. I found by putting a light pencil mark on the inwale and top of the top plank, it made it easier to line up as I was carefully bending and dry fitting. First one went in pretty well. Took a lot of back and forth with the sanding stick to get it to slide in at the bow. Second one I thought I'd cut the inwale a little closer to avoid some sanding but ending up cutting a little too much and now have a gap. Note to self - stop taking short cuts. I will use a little Natural colored wood filler to clean up gaps between the bow and inwale. druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #33 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 16 & 17 - Stern Quarter Knees & Bow Quarter Knees These steps are pretty straight forward. Ryland Craze and druxey 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #34 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 18 gave me a little trouble but I worked through it. First problem. I didn't understand at first how to use the tick strips from page 4. When trying to use them like I used the tick strip for the bottom frames nothing lined up like the photo in the instructions. Then I realized the offset 2 and 3 indicate how to line up on the bottom frames and that I need to cut the tick strip into 3 pieces. Ryland Craze, MajorChaos and druxey 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #35 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 18 continued. After following the instructions, but failing to look closely at the pictures in the instructions, I mounted almost all of the seat and thwart frames too low. Before redoing this, I took the midship seat and prepped it like I was going to install it per the instructions and noticed that the thwart frames were clearly way too low. The instructions don't really say where to line them up so I used the seam of the top to planks as my guide and reattached them. Bryan Woods, Ryland Craze and druxey 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #36 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 19 & 20 I did together. I thought I could get away with not bending the floor board cleats and just using glue to hold the very slight curve. Nope! Didn't work, no way to really clamp it. So I went with the instructions and put slight bends in them. Once dry I sanded and smoothed them down and softened the top edges. Tweezers helped to make positioning easier when gluing the cleats. The transoms I had to make adjustments. Since my planking job didn't end up exactly where they were supposed to be I had to approximate adjustments on both in order to keep my model similar to the photo in the instructions. On the rear transom, I stayed above the marked line about 1/16". Because I stayed above the line, I lightly drew the u-shaped notch a little higher to compensate. The front transom was the opposite. I needed to go below the marked line. So again I lightly drew where I wanted the top of the front transom at prior to cutting and sanding. Again, I was eyeballing this to stay similar to the photo in the instructions. (Sorry the picture is a bit blurry, but I think you get the idea) Bryan Woods, Claire7, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #37 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 19,20,21 completed. I am going to still go back with some wood filler and touch up any gaps in the quarter knees etc. prior to painting step. One note, after acquiring and using a 3/8" round file for the transom notch per the instructions, I realized it's a bit wider than the marked line. Not sure if this is going to affect the finished boat but the markings on the boat for the transom notch is only about 1/4" wide. So you may want to start with a 1/4" round file first. Bryan Woods, robert952, druxey and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted April 11, 2023 Share #38 Posted April 11, 2023 Looking good so far! Ryland Craze 1 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #39 Posted April 11, 2023 (edited) Step 22 Mast Step The instructions indicate that one piece of the mast step has a hole and the other does not. Both of mine had holes. Looking at the pictures of the prototype, the whole goes all the way through as well. So apparently the instructions are incorrect here. Also, during gluing as I was applying pressure to hold it in place in the middle, I snapped it in half. It was a clean break and I was able to glue it together and sand it to clean it back up. Edited April 11, 2023 by Zack Soderquist robert952 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #40 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 23 Chain plate slots This one made me a bit nervous but I took my time and was very careful. Worked out pretty good. Instructions say to cut this slot to 2" which obviously is 2" at full scale and would be 1/6" at 1:12. My ruler doesn't do 1/6 inch so I went with 5/32 which is about as close as I can get with my ruler Ryland Craze and druxey 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #41 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 24 Rudder gudgeon pad - straight forward (no photo) Step 25 Row Lock Pads. This was actually pretty straight forward. Be patient, take your time. druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #42 Posted April 11, 2023 (edited) Step 26 Rub Rails. I wasn't 100% clear about what to do here and the instructions provide no photos. I looked ahead at photos and got the gist of what needed to be done. It was pretty simple once I figured it out. Here are some photos of Rub Rails After the glue dries. Trip them flush with the transoms and then round off the end. Then soften the corners on the rub rails and inwales along the long edges. Edited April 11, 2023 by Zack Soderquist druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #43 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 27 Dagger Board This was pretty straight forward as well. druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #44 Posted April 11, 2023 Step 28 Rudder Disaster! I had finished shaping & beveling everything and was doing a final clean up of char in the small crevices when it broke and the little part went flying and I cannot find it. Model Expo has a free part request process located here: https://modelexpo-online.com/Parts-Request_p_7714.html I submitted a request for a new rudder. The sheet that has the rudder on it has a part number MS1471-F which is what I requested. I have never used this service before and not sure if this is an appropriate use of the service. Hopefully it is and if so, then I'll just have to wait and see how long it takes to get a new rudder. druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 11, 2023 Author Share #45 Posted April 11, 2023 The author of the instructions likes to use actual measurements as opposed to scaled measurements. (sometime he provides the conversion). When I started this kit, I looked for the ruler he had pictures of and I found it in pounds (not dollars) which means it would have to be shipped from over seas. I decided against getting it at the time. Now I want one, so I did some looking and found some small 6" scale rulers on Amazon and for a lot cheaper. Hopefully the will be helpful but if not, they are not too expensive. Plus seems it has more scale sizes in the 2 piece set then the one from Europe. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0885RP8PK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 druxey and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted April 12, 2023 Share #46 Posted April 12, 2023 Too bad that the rudder split there. Hopefully the replacement will be fine. Ryland Craze 1 Quote Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claire7 Posted April 14, 2023 Share #47 Posted April 14, 2023 You’ve ordered the part, but I was wondering could you not use the punched out shape to recreate the rudder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 14, 2023 Author Share #48 Posted April 14, 2023 10 hours ago, Claire7 said: You’ve ordered the part, but I was wondering could you not use the punched out shape to recreate the rudder? That is my backup plan Ryland Craze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share #49 Posted April 28, 2023 Received the new rudder from Model Expo on April 17th. I was quite impressed with how soon I received the replacement. Less than a week. Step 28. Rudder now completed. Ryland Craze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share #50 Posted April 28, 2023 Step 31-32: Thwarts and stern sheets, Midships thwart knees. Pretty straight forward. I took a lot of fitting on the fore thwart to get it to fit. Ready for paint! druxey, kuya, MajorChaos and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted April 28, 2023 Author Share #51 Posted April 28, 2023 I'm considering painting the seats, masts, etc that might normally be stained. I'm considering painting it warm white similar to the exterior hull. My question, not being a boat expert, would it be uncommon to paint the masts? Anything else that might be uncommon to paint? Current plan on paint is to go with the same paint scheme as the instructions. Warm white (MS-4832) exterior, Hull Copper Red (MS-4814) interior. Bryan Woods, druxey and Ryland Craze 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccoyle Posted April 28, 2023 Share #52 Posted April 28, 2023 Smallcraft like these typically reflect the subjective tastes of their owners. If you look at a dozen different examples of a particular design, you'll find a dozen different paint schemes, including interior finishes. I suspect that's true in Norway as much as it is anywhere else. WizardOfOs, druxey and Bryan Woods 3 Quote Chris Coyle Greer, South Carolina When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk. - Tuco Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Salmson 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardOfOs Posted May 1, 2023 Share #53 Posted May 1, 2023 (edited) I can't say I'm any kind of expert with regard to norms on painting, but that's exactly what I did with my Pram. I painted the seats/mast with the same off-white colour I chose for the exterior of the hull and think it looks "right." If nothing else it can serve as an example of what it may look similar to for you to judge if you like the look. Your model helped considerably in the early stages of mine and I'm very glad to see the excellent progress. Edited May 1, 2023 by WizardOfOs Bryan Woods and Ryland Craze 2 Quote Current Log: Albatros Completed Galleries: Lowell Grand Banks Dory, Norwegian Sailing Pram (Log), Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack (Log) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 3, 2023 Author Share #54 Posted May 3, 2023 ccoyle & WizardOfOs: Thank you for the feedback. Much appreciated! I looked at your build WizardOfOs and I like the look. I will be going for a similar paint scheme. To give an update on the progress, I have completed the painting of the hull and will be begin working on the floor boards and painting them and the thwarts prior to assembly. I will post some progress photos soon. Bryan Woods, Ryland Craze and WizardOfOs 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 4, 2023 Author Share #55 Posted May 4, 2023 Step 33 Painting the Hull. I used an air brush to paint the hull, floor boards, and thwarts. Interior is Hull Copper Red (MS-4814), Exterior, floor boards, and thwarts are Warm white (MS-4832). Exterior was finished with Clear Satin (MS-4972) All From Model Shipway's Ryland Craze, WizardOfOs and Bryan Woods 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 4, 2023 Author Share #56 Posted May 4, 2023 (edited) Step 34 Floor Boards When attaching the stern side floor boards, I started with board 9. To ensure I got equal spacing around the dagger board trunk (front and sides). Then I spaced the rest off of that one. Also, boards' 1 and 12 I had to trim down a little and touch up the paint on the cut edge after installing all of them with equal spacing. Edited May 4, 2023 by Zack Soderquist Bryan Woods, Ryland Craze and WizardOfOs 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 4, 2023 Author Share #57 Posted May 4, 2023 (edited) Step 34 Installing thwarts and stern sheets. Finally done with the primary hull and painting. Now get to move on to the fittings and details. Edited May 4, 2023 by Zack Soderquist Bryan Woods, Ryland Craze and WizardOfOs 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 4, 2023 Author Share #58 Posted May 4, 2023 (edited) Apparently I need to clean my camera lens. Here's a little bit clearer picture. Edited May 4, 2023 by Zack Soderquist Claire7, Bryan Woods, Ryland Craze and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 4, 2023 Author Share #59 Posted May 4, 2023 One note on the painting. I did prime everything with Model Shipway's white primer, which is the only color primer they seem to offer. In the future, I will probably go to another brand and go with grey primer. Ryland Craze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zack Soderquist Posted May 9, 2023 Author Share #60 Posted May 9, 2023 Step 35 tiller assembly The tiller assembly was pretty straightforward. I struggled a bit with mushrooming the 1/16" brass rod for the rivet took awhile but finally got it done. The tiller extension was problematic. First, I went with the 1/32" brass rod because the 1/16" seem too big for the piece of wood. I was unable to get this to mushroom even after annealing it. It ending up splitting the wood on the extension. I had some tiny brass nails from an abandoned build of the Rattlesnake so I used one of those so it looked better on the top. Since the wood on the extension was already split making it extra fragile and I wasn't even going to try to mushroom the other side of the nail, I just glued it into place and made in non-functional. I also used 1/32" brass rod for the tiller extension handle and not the 1/16" rod per the instructions. Ryland Craze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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