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I'm well into coppering my Caldercraft HMS Victory, the port side is finished and I'm about 1/3 of the way through coppering the starboard side.  I just looked at the finished port side, which I started coppering almost 4 weeks ago and already the copper plates are tarnishing, changing color and loosing their shine.  I know that a ship's coppering did this naturally, but I don't like it and want the copper to retain its color and shine. I build in my workshop in my garage and it's the height of summer in Maryland - very hot and very humid for those not familiar. I have the air conditioning on in there while I'm working but the ship sits for 18+ hours a day in a humid environment which is probably contributing to the effects on the copper. 

 

I have some good copper polish and was thinking I could polish the copper back to its original shine and then apply some sort of lacquer or protective finish over it to prevent discoloration.  The question is what sort of protective finish to use.  Does anyone have experience with applying a protective coating on copper?

 

Thanks

 

Patrick

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Patrick - you will need a lacquer of some sort, mine experience of lacquering any polished metal tella me it can be very difficult as you need a good 100% cover totally any flaws will allow the metal to tarnish with time. The best material I have found is rattle can automotive laqcuer which might prove difficult on the Victory due to size - its high gloss and if sprayed evenly will give a good cover and finish. Brushing I know from experience tends to leave poorly covered areas. A good airbrush may give a good result.

 

I prefer to let it tarnish naturally from an even colour/finish its more natural.

 

Norman

Edited by normanh

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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I agree with Norman. A copper hull on a model should have a patina of age.  Howver if you decide to coat your copper make sure it is squeaky clean.

David B

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My understanding is that its the traces of acid in the oil from your skin that causes the discoloration, not heat and humidity. Presumably if you only handle the hull while wearing gloves, it will remain shiny longer. But there are pollutants in the air itself that will eventual discolor the copper.

  

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Polish will get into the gaps of the plates and I dont think you will easily remove it. I used a fine wire wool which gave a coarse polish and left it at that to tarnish.

 

Norman

Norman

 

 

Current build Trumpeter Arizona 1:200 with White Ensign PE and a Nautilus Wooden Deck.

Built Caldercraft Convulsion, HM Brig Badger and HMS Snake.

Awaiting - Zvelda HMS Dreadnought planning to get the Pontos Deck and PE Upgrades, Panart 1:23 Gun deck model and couple of the cannon kits Manatu - French siege mortar, and American coastal cannon.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The book I'm using which has not lead me wrong yet says clean it up with the finest grade steel wool AND glass fiber brush and then IMMEDIATELY apply cellulose clear lawyer. Ulna queried copper will show fingerprints after a few hours due to oxidization. In 3 or 4 years it will acquire exactly the right perinatal and look weathered/aged like a ship should but won't look bad. Could u post pictures of what it looks like right now? I'd like to see how the humidity affects it and how badly it's did colored. You should have put the laquer on long ago you may have to recoup per it, as long as you're using the thin foils a second layer will most likely look fine.

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If you absolutely want a shiny copper bottom, you will need to be very careful not to pull up plate edges while cleaning them. This is virtually impossible! However, if you are successful, you will also need to swab the copper with acetone to remove any trace of  grease before spraying with lacquer as suggested. Otherwise your fingerprints will come back to haunt you!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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I use q-tips soaked in the appropriate solvent to clean areas like this. Granted, it is laborious but you have good control over the q-tip. This technique can also be used to remove excess adhesive during installation with appropriate debonding solvent.

Acetone will certainly work on body oils but have you ever tried 90%+ Isopropanol? Less volatile and not as nasty as acetone. Perhaps a wee trial on an unobtrusive spot would determine if it works.

Best

Jaxboat B)

Edited by Jaxboat
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