My experiences with using several irons

[modeller_masa]

 

Hello, I would like to share my personal experience with using different kinds of irons for bending planks. I purchased a curling iron (left) after reading some advice. I compare the irons and pick the best one for me.

 

 

The first iron I purchased and built for bending planks was from Artesania Latina. It is basically a large cylinder-shaped head soldering iron. I coulnd't get used to it because it burns basswood to a brown color too fast. The issue is a temperature control. It would be fine if I could use digital temperature control soldering station and replace the tip with the AL's iron. 

 

 

The next irons I purchased were digital temperature control leatherwork irons.

 

 

I set the temperature at 150℃ (=300℉), and got the best result without a burning mark. I was so satisfied that I purchased a curved iron, too. Both flat and curved head irons are useful for any kind of hull.

 

 

This is the last iron I purchased. I thought it could be a cheap alternative to the leatherwork irons. It costs only $20, and the digital control meter gives me trust.

 

 

However, the curling iron was so big that the temperature didn't spread well. I checked the surface temperature with a non-contact type thermometer and found that the heat source is fairly limited. In addition, the curved lid covers the heat source, so I can't use it as plank bender before I remove it.

 

 

I saw many modellers didn't touch the iron on the hull directly. The design of the curling iron will fit the usage. In my case, I place a wet plank on the hull and sear it with the leatherwork iron. The curling iron's head isn't good for my usage.

 

 

 

So, which one is the best? For me, I use leatherwork irons only. They control the temperature so as not to burn wood, and the weights are half the curling iron. However, I had to purchase two irons for every surface on the hull, including the curved stern.

 

The curling iron is cheap, but I won't use it. 

 

I would say that a soldering iron with a digital temperature control soldering station should be the best. I didn't try to replace the tip of my soldering station with AL's cylinder head, but its lighter weight and small size should make my hobby more enjoyable. By the way, it is the most expensive solution.

 

I hope you find the best tool to suit your workshop.  

 

[Jaager]

What happens if you use a dimmer switch or router speed control with the AL unit?

[modeller_masa]

Hello, Jagger. I'm not sure I understood your comment well, but I have a future plan to build a ship that has RGB LED planks and illuminates like a Christmas tree.  

[Roger Pellett]

Jagger is referring to a dimmer switch sold to control the brightness of incandescent household lights.  There are common here in the US and are inexpensive.  These are Rheostats, variable resistors, and soldering irons heat by resistance so plugging a soldering iron into one. Of these allows control of temperature.

[modeller_masa]

Hello, Roger pellett. Thanks for the kind explanation. I understood what Jagger was talking about. I imagined plugging the AL's cylinder tip into the Dremel router, so I thought he expected another unique idea from me. 😅

 

I doubt its functionality to keep a constant temperature in the case of the simple power output control with variable nob. When I tested the power consumption level of the digital leatherwork irons, I saw that the power consumption fluctuated from 0W to 80W very quickly. Without a temperature sensor and a digitally controlled power supply, I believe the temperature at the tip will rise, even though the power level is set to the lowest. 

[Roger Pellett]

Our electric supply system here in the US is 110v AC.  These dimmer switches do successfully control temperature of inexpensive soldering irons within acceptable limits for soldering.

[modeller_masa]

I chosed any power meter image from Google that appears to be very similar to my own. I have both a 110v AC and a 220v AC power meter to measure any devices here. (SK is one of the countries that uses both AC plugs.) I tested them with a 220v power meter because they support free volts.

 

I searched for the modified irons, and the articles were interesting. The iron for the modification has a temperature sensor in it, so the modification should work. I thought common iron, which are the cheapest, so I didn't get the idea. Sorry about that.

 

 

By the way, I ordered a digital temperature control iron for $15. I'll update my experience if the new gadget seems helpful. 😆

[modeller_masa]

 

I received the pyrography pen kit. Its price was $15. I updated a tip because I considered the new iron good for new builders in general. 

 

 

The only difference between a wood-burning iron and a regular soldering iron is the M4 screw bit converter. Fortunately, I confirmed that the converter also fit well in an expensive soldering station gun.

 

 

The downside of this iron is that the minimum temperature is 180 °C (350 °F), which causes scorched marks on a light-colored wood strip. I need 150 °C (300 °F).

 

 

In real life, I got a fairly acceptable result. I would say that I can sand all of the scorched surface if I don't burn it for too long. If you need a very delicate result, I recommend using an expensive soldering station that can control the temperature down to 50 °C.

 

 

I would say that these tips are the best for hull planking.

 

I ordered larger tips. I'll sand the letter and make it flat.

 

It may not satisfy enthusiastic experts, but I definitely say that the wood-burning kit lowers the huddle for new builders.

 

Edited April 2, 2022 by modeller_masa

[modeller_masa]

 

I suddenly realized that a mini iron is better than a soldering iron for new builders. 🤪 Someone said that he got electrically shocked while he was using a soldering iron for planking.

[robdurant]

I don't think a minimum of 180C should be a problem...

 

When I'm bending ribs for a violin, I can use the same heat setting (~250C) without water, and the wood won't bend, it'll just burn the wood within a few second, and if forced it will snap. BUT if I use the same temperature, but first run a wet finger along the wood I want to bend before I apply the heat on the side where it will be contacting the bending iron, the steam does the work, and as long as I only keep it in contact for perhaps ten seconds, then hold the wood in shape as I remove it and it cools, the bend takes, and there are no marks left on the wood (and the wood is pretty much dry because of the heat, so no waiting to use it...  It's a skill that you get a feel for, for sure, but higher temperatures and some moisture yield quite amazing results...  Obviously you need to use your common sense and be careful with water around electrical equipment, but I wouldn't recommend trying to bend wood without at least a little moisture present.

 

The advice I try to follow is that you'll know it's hot enough (at least for maple) when dropping a small drop of water onto the heating surface causes it to bounce straight back off rather than sit there and sizzle.