hof00 Posted August 30, 2022 Share #1 Posted August 30, 2022 (edited) Hi All, I thought I'd atart a new topic on Decaling a Wooden Deck.... 🙂 I need to ask as I think I'm only going to get one "Shot" at this.... I have ordered Micro-Sol and Micro-Set and am awaiting delivery. I have also been reviewing tutorials on use of the above. My question, how to prepare the wooden Deck prior to Decals and solutions? Smooth the Deck first with very fine abrasive paper and seal with clear acrylic as per plastic models? (I wish to replicate the "Painted On" look on the Deck with the Decal adhering to the contours of the Planking/etc.) (1/200 Bismarck) Any experience/ideas would be greatly valued. Cheers and Regards, Harry. Edited August 30, 2022 by hof00 Canute, thibaultron and mtaylor 3 Quote Completed Builds: A/L Bluenose II A/L Mare Nostrum Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark A/L Pen Duick A/L Fulgaro Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck A/L Sanson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realworkingsailor Posted August 31, 2022 Share #2 Posted August 31, 2022 A decal needs a glossy surface in order to adhere properly, regardless of the underlying texture or material. Testors Glosscote works well, but any clear gloss finish will work. Otherwise, follow the instructions on the bottles. If you’ve never used micro sol/set: I typically will apply a small puddle of micro set (blue bottle) to the area on the model to allow the decal to float off the backing paper. This will help prevent air bubbles. Soak up any excess with a tissue, position the decal and gently dab with a cotton swab or hobby sponge. Allow to dry. When you apply the micro sol (red bottle), the decal can wrinkle. Alarmingly! This is normal. Do not touch the decal! The glossy surface will allow the decal to settle back down and conform to any contours (like the seams between planks). If there’s any air bubbles or silvering, when dry, prick the decal with the tip of your hobby knife or a pin and apply more micro sol. Repeat the process until all bubbles are removed. Apply one more gloss coat to seal the decal, this should make all the decal edges disappear, followed by whatever other finishes you desire. Andy hof00, Canute, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati Current Build: USF Confederacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hof00 Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share #3 Posted August 31, 2022 5 hours ago, realworkingsailor said: A decal needs a glossy surface in order to adhere properly, regardless of the underlying texture or material. Testors Glosscote works well, but any clear gloss finish will work. Otherwise, follow the instructions on the bottles. If you’ve never used micro sol/set: I typically will apply a small puddle of micro set (blue bottle) to the area on the model to allow the decal to float off the backing paper. This will help prevent air bubbles. Soak up any excess with a tissue, position the decal and gently dab with a cotton swab or hobby sponge. Allow to dry. When you apply the micro sol (red bottle), the decal can wrinkle. Alarmingly! This is normal. Do not touch the decal! The glossy surface will allow the decal to settle back down and conform to any contours (like the seams between planks). If there’s any air bubbles or silvering, when dry, prick the decal with the tip of your hobby knife or a pin and apply more micro sol. Repeat the process until all bubbles are removed. Apply one more gloss coat to seal the decal, this should make all the decal edges disappear, followed by whatever other finishes you desire. Andy Thanks Andy, Do I need to sand the wood before initial Gloss? (I am sort of thinking that I do, it seems a little "Rough" in texture.) And yes, this will be my first time using these products. Cheers and Regards, Harry. Canute, thibaultron and mtaylor 3 Quote Completed Builds: A/L Bluenose II A/L Mare Nostrum Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark A/L Pen Duick A/L Fulgaro Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck A/L Sanson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
realworkingsailor Posted August 31, 2022 Share #4 Posted August 31, 2022 Sanding can’t hurt. If you have a bit of scrap material, apply a coat or two of gloss and see what the results are (with and without sanding). Even better, if you have any leftover decals from another project, you can see how they’ll work (and get familiar with the micro sol/set). I find it’s always better to try a new technique with scraps and leftovers, rather than risking everything on a prized project. Andy hof00, mtaylor, thibaultron and 1 other 4 Quote Quando Omni Flunkus, Moritati Current Build: USF Confederacy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thibaultron Posted August 31, 2022 Share #5 Posted August 31, 2022 Also finish up with an overall coat of matt varnish/finish to blend the glossy area into the rest of the model, unless you plan to have a final gloss finish. mtaylor, Canute and hof00 3 Quote Ron Thibault Shipjack Carrie Price from Pyro kit, with upgraded detailing and history. Going From A 2D Drawing To A 3D Printed Part Tutorial Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hof00 Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share #6 Posted August 31, 2022 9 hours ago, realworkingsailor said: Sanding can’t hurt. If you have a bit of scrap material, apply a coat or two of gloss and see what the results are (with and without sanding). Even better, if you have any leftover decals from another project, you can see how they’ll work (and get familiar with the micro sol/set). I find it’s always better to try a new technique with scraps and leftovers, rather than risking everything on a prized project. Andy 8 hours ago, thibaultron said: Also finish up with an overall coat of matt varnish/finish to blend the glossy area into the rest of the model, unless you plan to have a final gloss finish. Thanks Gentlemen!! I do have a couple of very small scraps and a bit of "Pinstripe" Decal. I'll have a play with these first. Much appreciated. Cheers and Regards, Harry. thibaultron, mtaylor, realworkingsailor and 1 other 4 Quote Completed Builds: A/L Bluenose II A/L Mare Nostrum Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark A/L Pen Duick A/L Fulgaro Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck A/L Sanson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIPEXEC Posted August 31, 2022 Share #7 Posted August 31, 2022 Decals on wood are tricky. It’s very hard to get them perfect these decals are on painted wood. good luck hof00, Jack12477, thibaultron and 2 others 5 Quote Rich Rich USS Constitution by hipexec (Finished build) Virginia Pilot Boat 1805 (gallery - first build) USS Syren (USS Argus) by Hipexec Joshua Slocum's Spray by HIPEXEC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hof00 Posted August 31, 2022 Author Share #8 Posted August 31, 2022 1 hour ago, HIPEXEC said: Decals on wood are tricky. It’s very hard to get them perfect these decals are on painted wood. good luck Thanks for that Chap!! I have thought that "Tricky" would be something that I'll be looking at, hence my Thread/Posts.... Cheers and Regards, Hasry. HIPEXEC, Canute, thibaultron and 1 other 3 1 Quote Completed Builds: A/L Bluenose II A/L Mare Nostrum Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark A/L Pen Duick A/L Fulgaro Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck A/L Sanson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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