1956 Chris-Craft 54' Constellation by bcochran

[bcochran]

After having completed the superstructure of this boat I turned to the R/C components again. I moved both battery packs too the bow.   I twisted the wires to the ESC and the batteries.  I turned on the transmitter and added power to the receiver.  At first the transmitter and receiver were bound then the receiver light went off and there is no response from the transmitter.

 

The ESC fan turns on but I have no idea if the ESC is working.

 

To me the thing to do is buy a new transmitter receiver, hook them up and hope things work. If that doesn't fix things I will get a new ESC hook it up and hope things work.   This will probably take another week to accomplish.

 

I don't know what transmitter receiver to buy.  The seem to be around $30 to $40. The one I want to replace is a 2.4 GHZ with a third channel. I will look for one like it.

Edited June 13 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I bought a new  transmitter receiver and a new ESC on eBay.  They should come next week sometime. I hope to be on the water soon.

Edited June 13 by bcochran

[thibaultron]

When it arrives, start by just hooking the receiver and one new servo out of the boat, and see if that is stable. Then take the servos out of the boat, and add them one at a time. If everything is OK, hook up the ESC, without the motors attached, etc. Once everything works out of the boat, recheck all your wiring, and start putting the equipment back in the boat, one item at a time. If something fails during this, look at the last thing you hooked up.

[thibaultron]

About 35 years ago I attended my first Nationals with the RC Warship Combat Club (we had radio controlled warships with radio controlled BB guns on them and each team tried to sink the other side's ships). Well we were on one of the reflecting ponds at a former Worlds Fair site. There was a nearby building with a glass outside elevator. Very time the elevator moved my steering servo gliched, and I lost control until the elevator stopped!. Not a good thing! That night the boat worked perfectly at the hotel. In desperation it took a 3 foot long twisted shielded pair cable I had in my tool box and replaced the servo wiring with that. I left the whole thing coiled up in the hull. The next day the ship worked perfectly! I left it that way all week. I took it out and reinstalled the old wiring when I got home, and the boat worked perfectly for the next two years.

 

The combat is not as destructive as it sounds. All the electronics were in watertight and BB proof boxes, and the plywood ribs withstood the abuse. The only thing we had to do was periodically replace the silkspan covered 1/32nd balsa skin. Generally once or twice a year, if I attended every event I could (one week long Nationals, and 4 or 5 weekend long events). We also had mesh armor on the inside of the ribs to protect the equipment, but still allow water to come in through the holes. There was also one bilge pump, that had a restricted outlet. As long as it kept up, the boat stayed above the water. We did this in shallow water, so we could retrieved sunken, or out of control models. I participated for 15 years, and no one ever lost a model.

[bcochran]

12 hours ago, thibaultron said:

About 35 years ago I attended my first Nationals with the RC Warship Combat Club (we had radio controlled warships with radio controlled BB guns on them and each team tried to sink the other side's ships). Well we were on one of the reflecting ponds at a former Worlds Fair site. There was a nearby building with a glass outside elevator. Very time the elevator moved my steering servo gliched, and I lost control until the elevator stopped!. Not a good thing! That night the boat worked perfectly at the hotel. In desperation it took a 3 foot long twisted shielded pair cable I had in my tool box and replaced the servo wiring with that. I left the whole thing coiled up in the hull. The next day the ship worked perfectly! I left it that way all week. I took it out and reinstalled the old wiring when I got home, and the boat worked perfectly for the next two years.

 

The combat is not as destructive as it sounds. All the electronics were in watertight and BB proof boxes, and the plywood ribs withstood the abuse. The only thing we had to do was periodically replace the silkspan covered 1/32nd balsa skin. Generally once or twice a year, if I attended every event I could (one week long Nationals, and 4 or 5 weekend long events). We also had mesh armor on the inside of the ribs to protect the equipment, but still allow water to come in through the holes. There was also one bilge pump, that had a restricted outlet. As long as it kept up, the boat stayed above the water. We did this in shallow water, so we could retrieved sunken, or out of control models. I participated for 15 years, and no one ever lost a model.

Wow that must have been fun.  I know nothing about R/C boats.  My main hobby has been model trains.  I have built trains, planes, boats, ships, cars, trucks and other things. I am amazed how involved you can get with models.

 

I found this drawing on ebay.  This drawing may be of the real boat or it may be a plan for a model. I bought the Marx version of this boat on ebay and with this drawing I may complete a model with a complete interior. 

[bcochran]

Just a few detail shots while I wait for my new Tx/Rx and ESC.  At times I don't like the way this boat looks.  And at other times I do like it. It is not a perfect build for sure. But I like these detail pics so here they are.

Edited June 15 by bcochran

[Ian_Grant]

I think she looks great with furniture and crew of models aboard!

[bcochran]

36 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

I think she looks great with furniture and crew of models aboard!

Thanks Ian,

i wasn’t sure how those things would work out. 

[Rick310]

Really well done!!

Rick

[bcochran]

I got a new transmitter and receiver.  The new ESC is coming on Friday.  I am not clear what I should do before putting the receiver and ESC in thee boat.  I have only one servo and it is attached to the hull.

Edited June 18 by bcochran

[thibaultron]

buy a cheap servo to start testing with.

[bcochran]

7 hours ago, thibaultron said:

buy a cheap servo to start testing with.

Are you saying to connect the ESC to the receiver and receiver to the servo without connecting the motors to the ESC to test the servo?

[thibaultron]

No, setup the new TX/RX, with one new servo, outside the boat, and test it that way, first, to insure it works that way. Then hook up the ESC. Once everything works outside the boat, start putting them in the boat one component at a time. If the system fails when the one is installed, check the wiring for that part.

[Ian_Grant]

If it was me, I would step one power the receiver from some other 6V battery if I could (you can buy servo cable extensions and cut one connector off to connect the red and black wires to battery) and test that the Tx and Rx bind according to whatever LED flashes the receiver should display. Then plug in your rudder servo and see that it works. Power on and off several times to ensure the binding holds and see that the rudder servo behaves as you turn it.

 

You really shouldn't have to do the above; this brand new stuff should all work.

 

Now you know that the RC set and servo work properly. Then remove the external battery and plug in the ESC to the receiver with your 12V battery packs connected. Turn the ESC on and manipulate your throttle according to whatever ESC start-up sequence the manual specifies (which calibrates it for min/max throttle). I'm not familiar with that "land" type transmitter you have; for an aircraft transmitter used with a boat one usually powers up with the throttle stick in the centre (for "off") perhaps waits for the ESC to beep, then moves the stick to "full ahead" (wait for the beep if applicable) then moves the stick to "full reverse" and you're done. For your land transmitter I presume the trigger is just "min to max" and direction is specified by a separate switch? Or is this "brake/reverse" function I've seen mentioned something the trigger can do? I don't know. You need to consult the manuals.

 

The ESC should now supply 6V to the receiver. The cable connecting the ESC and receiver carries the throttle signal to the receiver and also supplies the 6V to it. Test that the rudder servo still works. If not, unplug it and put two small wires into the receiver's rudder connector and measure the voltage across the 6V/GND pins. If it does then connect the motors to the ESC and test. Again if there are problems phone BIg Rich and he'll talk you through it.

 

I wish I could drive over and help.  Good luck!

 

 

Edited June 19 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

1 hour ago, thibaultron said:

No, setup the new TX/RX, with one new servo, outside the boat, and test it that way, first, to insure it works that way. Then hook up the ESC. Once everything works outside the boat, start putting them in the boat one component at a time. If the system fails when the one is installed, check the wiring for that part.

The servo gets power from the receiver.  The receiver gets power from the ESC.  The ESC gets power from the batteries.  I don't get how you get power to a servo outside the boat.

[bcochran]

1 hour ago, Ian_Grant said:

If it was me, I would step one power the receiver from some other 6V battery if I could (you can buy servo cable extensions and cut one connector off to connect the red and black wires to battery) and test that the Tx and Rx bind according to whatever LED flashes the receiver should display. Then plug in your rudder servo and see that it works. Power on and off several times to ensure the binding holds and see that the rudder servo behaves as you turn it.

 

You really shouldn't have to do the above; this brand new stuff should all work.

 

Now you know that the RC set and servo work properly. Then remove the external battery and plug in the ESC to the receiver with your 12V battery packs connected. Turn the ESC on and manipulate your throttle according to whatever ESC start-up sequence the manual specifies (which calibrates it for min/max throttle). I'm not familiar with that "land" type transmitter you have; for an aircraft transmitter used with a boat one usually powers up with the throttle stick in the centre (for "off") perhaps waits for the ESC to beep, then moves the stick to "full ahead" (wait for the beep if applicable) then moves the stick to "full reverse" and you're done. For your land transmitter I presume the trigger is just "min to max" and direction is specified by a separate switch? Or is this "brake/reverse" function I've seen mentioned something the trigger can do? I don't know. You need to consult the manuals.

 

The ESC should now supply 6V to the receiver. The cable connecting the ESC and receiver carries the throttle signal to the receiver and also supplies the 6V to it. Test that the rudder servo still works. If not, unplug it and put two small wires into the receiver's rudder connector and measure the voltage across the 6V/GND pins. If it does then connect the motors to the ESC and test. Again if there are problems phone BIg Rich and he'll talk you through it.

 

I wish I could drive over and help.  Good luck!

 

 

My new transmitter is bound to the receiver from the factory.  They say you don't need to bind it.  My new ESC will be here on Fri.  I don't see why I don't just swap out my old ESC and receiver with the new ones and it should work.  The land transmitter is for cars or boats.  The wheel on the side controls the rudders and the trigger controls boat speed. The other buttons and etc are for trim.

Edited June 19 by bcochran

[bcochran]

Here is the diagram for hooking up the new transmitter/receiver I have.  I think I could just connect the components like this and it should work.

[Ian_Grant]

OK. To augment my knowledge, how does one put the boat into reverse with these land sets?  🤔

[bcochran]

12 minutes ago, Ian_Grant said:

OK. To augment my knowledge, how does one put the boat into reverse with these land sets?  🤔

I am just learning this throttle but I believe this explains how to reverse.

[thibaultron]

If the wiring in the boat has a problem, then you are right back at the start. That is why I am recommending assembling the equipment outside the boat to begin with. I think the receiver only needs 6 volts. You can wire up a cheap battery pack to run it during testing.

[Ian_Grant]

Bruce, that's the servo reversing function. It allows you to, on a per-channel basis, reverse the direction a servo will rotate with a given signal from the transmitter. For example, if you found that your rudder turned left when you turned the transmitter wheel right, instead of changing the physical linkage from servo to rudder you can just servo-reverse that channel.

 

I had a look at the manual for your FS-GT3B and here are a few things to note:

 

Pg 7 - in Chinglish they seem to tell you to have the receiver antenna oriented vertically, not lying along the boat's keel.

 

Pg 21 - ABS brake function: you don't want it for a boat so turn it to OFF.

 

Pg 23  -shows how fwd/reverse is controlled by the trigger which can be pulled OR pushed. Now I understand; I assumed the trigger could only be pulled like on a firearm or a slot-car racing set. If the motors go backward when you want forward, you can servo-reverse the throttle channel instead of swapping physical wires.

 

It's a pretty terse manual but that's common in RC where prior knowledge is assumed.

 

You need to read the ESC manual to find out to properly set it up for fwd/off/rev control at power-up. By the way, what's the model number of the new ESC? I'd like to look through its manual too, to be able to help you.

 

 

Edited June 19 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

5 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Bruce, that's the servo reversing function. It allows you to, on a per-channel basis, reverse the direction a servo will rotate with a given signal from the transmitter. For example, if you found that your rudder turned left when you turned the transmitter wheel right, instead of changing the physical linkage from servo to rudder you can just servo-reverse that channel.

 

I had a look at the manual for your FS-GT3B and here are a few things to note:

 

Pg 7 - in Chinglish they seem to tell you to have the receiver antenna oriented vertically, not lying along the boat's keel.

 

Pg 21 - ABS brake function: you don't want it for a boat so turn it to OFF.

 

Pg 23  -shows how fwd/reverse is controlled by the trigger which can be pulled OR pushed. Now I understand; I assumed the trigger could only be pulled like on a firearm or a slot-car racing set. If the motors go backward when you want forward, you can servo-reverse the throttle channel instead of swapping physical wires.

 

It's a pretty terse manual but that's common in RC where prior knowledge is assumed.

 

You need to read the ESC manual to find out to properly set it up for fwd/off/rev control at power-up. By the way, what's the model number of the new ESC? I'd like to look through its manual too, to be able to help you.

 

 

It does not have a manufacturer or  part number.  I will as the seller if he knows.

Description:

2-Way 6-12V 320A High Voltage ESC Brushed Speed Controller for RC Car Truck Boat

[Ian_Grant]

????    🤔

 

Perhaps you could download the pdf manual for the ESC from the seller?

 

Or else wait for it to arrive, presumably with at least some instructions.

Edited June 20 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

1 hour ago, Ian_Grant said:

????    🤔

 

Perhaps you could download the pdf manual for the ESC from the seller?

 

Or else wait for it to arrive, presumably with at least some instructions.

I will as the seller if there is any information about it.

 

If this boat ever makes it to the pond you guys will have had important parts you played in getting it there.

[bcochran]

Here is the new ESC.  There was no information about it in the package.

 

It looks very much like the first one I had.

 

I assume I plug it into the receiver with the ground wire facing toward the side of the receiver.

Edited June 20 by bcochran

[Ian_Grant]

Black GND wire nearest the outside of the case is the usual standard, yes.

 

There was no connection diagram with the ESC?  Ridiculous. 👎

 

Bob (not Bruce; sorry about that!), can you tell us the link where you ordered it from?

Edited June 21 by Ian_Grant

[bcochran]

6 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Black GND wire nearest the outside of the case is the usual standard, yes.

 

There was no connection diagram with the ESC?  Ridiculous. 👎

 

Bob (not Bruce; sorry about that!), can you tell us the link where you ordered it from?

I ordered it on eBay. It is like the one that came from MACK. Those instructions just said to connect the red to red and black to black wires to motors. Since the screws are meant to turn in opposite direction I think I am ok to connect black to red on one of the motors. 

Edited June 21 by bcochran

[bcochran]

I think something is wrong. See the video. I turn on the transmitter then turn on power to receiver and it lights up as it is supposed to do. When I pull the trigger it turns on and of motors do not turn service does not move.

 

i think the ESC is not working.

 

i am about to give up!

 

Edited June 21 by bcochran

[bcochran]

The ECS has a blinking light on with out it being plugged into the receiver. The fan is not running. 

 

Edited June 21 by bcochran

[bcochran]

 

With the motors disconnected turning on the receiver the red led comes on the flashes and goes out. The fan on the ESC does not run when it gets power

 

i am so damned pissed that I buy things hook them up as shown and they do not work as described!

 
I don’t want to throw anymore money into this. And I am fast getting to the point where I don’t want to throw anymore time into it. 

 

Edited June 21 by bcochran