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Posted (edited)

After much annoyance lining up where the braces attach to the stays i think i have it about right. 

 

The fore topsail and fore top gallant braces and rigged to kevel blocks in the bow. 

 

Im sure thats not their proper belaying positions but moving on.

 

The only issue is there was a lot of slack in the main topmast preventer stay and the braces where pulling it into a weird shape so i yacked it tight and glued it at the block... now the slack is down the side of the mast and no way of tightening it... could i snip it right at the bottom and then just glue it back on with a small section cut off?

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Edited by Srenner
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Slow progress over last couple of weeks... i have been ordering more blocks etc from cornwall model shop , excellent service from them by the way.

 

And now back on doing all the deadeyes on the main mast which is time consuming.... its all time consuming.

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Posted

You know when you stuff up and snip the stay? And then you realise its really way to much work to re do all the pairs of stays on the main top? So ive bodged the stay and its a bit ugly but sometimes you just have to move on and get over it....

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Posted

As ive gone along with build ive realised something about building model ships.  If you dont like something there isnt anything on this ship that i cant take off redo and put back on.

 

Case in point was the kit supplied chain plates.. which are metal for a start and not in keeping with 1720 but anyway it was the angle of the chain plate with the stay and so i decided to change it this morning...

15 minutes work and its much better than it was! Dont be afraid to change things with the kit... it will be ok!

 

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  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 7/5/2025 at 5:57 PM, Srenner said:

As ive gone along with build ive realised something about building model ships.  If you dont like something there isnt anything on this ship that i cant take off redo and put back on.

 

Case in point was the kit supplied chain plates.. which are metal for a start and not in keeping with 1720 but anyway it was the angle of the chain plate with the stay and so i decided to change it this morning...

15 minutes work and its much better than it was! Dont be afraid to change things with the kit... it will be ok!

 

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Hey Srenner, I'm curious about your build. Are you saying that in 1720, ship chainplates were usually rope, not metal? Or is it more a question of the Greyhound kit chainplates being poorly made? I'm working on the Greyhound, and am very discontent with the kit-issued metal. I'm thinking of doing them with rope instead.

Posted

@Jackson7 yes i agree with you... there was no iron on the chain plates so if i was making this again i would use rope for all the deadeye chain plates... they look much better than the kit supplied ones.

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Srenner said:

@Jackson7 yes i agree with you... there was no iron on the chain plates so if i was making this again i would use rope for all the deadeye chain plates... they look much better than the kit supplied ones.

Curious where you are getting that information.

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Quote

The lower deadeyes (construction of deadeyes is described in the chapter BLOCKS AND ROPES) are enclosed by a metal strap,

which is held in turn by the chain or chain plate. The bottom end of each chain or chain plate is fixed to the hull with strong pins.

I don't see where rope was ever used for chains (chain plates).  I don't have any other reference at hand, but this is from Mondfeld.

It does look like they would have consisted of two or more parts.  What I see in your kit is not uncommon in kits.  

Edited by Gregory

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

In Progress:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

On Hold:    Rattlesnake

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted
5 hours ago, Srenner said:

@Jackson7 yes i agree with you... there was no iron on the chain plates so if i was making this again i would use rope for all the deadeye chain plates... they look much better than the kit supplied ones.

Fascinating! I'm fairly sure now that I don't want to use the chain plates from Corel, simply for the reason that they are fairly terrible. Glad to hear the history seems to bear it out too.

Posted

@Gregory @Jackson7

 

I have the mondfeld book and your right it says it was chain and goodwin book says it was made from flat iron and around 1720 changed to the chain link method and the is a table for the number of chain plates per rate.

 

Cant work out where it says rope being used..?!?

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