HMS Greyhound by Srenner - Corel - 1:100

[Jack-in-the-Blue]

1 hour ago, Srenner said:

Does anyone know can you get glass encrusted thread or some sort of file approx 0.6mm that you can thread through and clean out the cleats?

Look for a set of nut files on a luthier or guitar maker’s website. They are very small. I can’t say how small because I seem to have lost mine. 
 

Otherwise, perhaps a micro saw with the corners of the teeth ground round?

 

For cleaning holes, rather than slots, look for broaches. They come in very small sizes. 

Edited September 17, 2023 by Jack-in-the-Blue

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Corel models are appealing to me even though they are smaller in scale, and as such don't allow you to make details as easily, but the plans are nice and the wood materials are great quality.  But Corel makes more models from the the 17th century than other kit makers. The 3-D printed decorations and parts you made for the Greyhound are fantastic!  They add so much tiny details which are very hard to carve at this scale.  I'm trying to learn the same thing for my current model, using Aspire and Blender to make decorations and carvings, and am farther down the ladder on learning.  There is such a long way to go just learning how the 3-D printer works, starting with taking it out of the box, which hasn't happened yet.     Love your work!  

[Srenner]

I contemplated getting a person I know print it out on a 12k printer as the 4k lacks a bit of resolution but I need to learn and if I'm super unhappy with results then that's plan B

[Gregory]

8 hours ago, Srenner said:

Does anyone know can you get glass encrusted thread or some sort of file approx 0.6mm that you can thread through and clean out the cleats?

Round Abrasive Cord

 

The linked item is ~.457mm   They have a variety of sizes.

[Srenner]

I have been struggling to find time to get back to blender and keep going on all the pieces that need updating.

 

And I had a big print fail with the knightsheads. So I replaced the film and am experimenting with the ptfe lubricant so that the prints release of the fep film in the printer vat.

 

Anyway I did paint the model with the white and a touch of black in flat colour

But then got a rush of I don't know what and put a ultra gloss coat over the top.

 

I was kind of thinking that will keep the dust off the sides!! But it just looks like it's so wet now like it's been dunked I'm water. Yes I could probably sand it off- should I?

[Srenner]

After months of prep and working on my blender mesh deformation skills I have finished the quarter cabin.

 

Showed my work against the kit supplied one.

 

I want to mix the 3d resin plastic with wood as much as possible so that you get the crisp lines and details mixed with some wood grain.

 

The roof was a little tricky but just fiddly but not too difficult. 

 

I've also finished all the forecastle knights heads and railings.

[Srenner]

Hi... I throw my hands up with the parts that come with this kit... the head rail by my first fit is about 5mm shorter than required and the knee of the head is twisted.

 

I know the bowsprit angle should be 32 or 36 degrees to the keel for 1719.

 

So I need the head rail to go from the cathead to the head then some middle tails . Looks like another print job...

 

 

[hamilton]

She;s looking really good! 

hamilton

[Srenner]

Been looking at other models of 1720 and notice that the kit keel piece is very high compared with the bowsprit and the waterline on the provided plans.

 

I  think there should be a gap between the bottom of the bowsprit and the top of where the head timber joins the keel and the figurehead.

 

Should I cut it down to create that gap?

 

 

[Gregory]

I don't think that gap would exist on this type of ship.

 

It would be similar to something like this on the Winchelsea. You might also look at how the rails are laid out on Winchelsea.

Don't try to duplicate it.  Just follow the general layout.  There are a lot of different views in Chuck's Winchelsea log.

 

[Srenner]

It could be the angle of the bowsprit to the keel... should be 23-26 degrees right?

[allanyed]

Have you researched any contemporary plans and models of other 20 gun ships around the time of the Greyhound 1720?   I just found some with a quick search on the RMG Collections site, including Tartar (20) 1734 and Biddeford (20) 1727 that you might find appropriate and helpful.

 

Allan

Edited November 13, 2023 by allanyed

[Srenner]

Thanks Allan... very helpful

[Srenner]

Blender hair... what can I say. It's a beast and has taken me ages but starting to get happier with the workflow to make braids and things. I have sliced this in chitubox and it's a solid piece so it should print but Thinking the detail will get lost to a degree when she is only 20mm tall.

 

Still the figure head is taking shape.  She will be wearing a toga of some sort blowing in the wind and blowing a hunting horn. I plan to have a greyhound on her left hand side leaping and looking up at her on the head rails.

 

Has taken well over twenty hours to get to this stage. Its a blender Make human female with rig for positioning her arms, legs, hands and fingers.

[Srenner]

Maybe never again will I do a new fully imagined figurehead from my imagination. It was very difficult and took so long. The  problems with it were too numerous to note here. The clothes modifier - nightmare but I did use the wind force to shape the dress and I also draped it over the end of the bow - underneath its been cut out so that it will fit nicely over the bow section. In addition it will be caucasian with brown hair when its painted. total height of the printed figure is likely to be about 20mm so it will probably loose a lot of the details but I did them anyway  - I will add a clip on the shoulder of the dress as well but again it might not print out.

 

At this stage its part computer art and part model ship. I will probably reuse quite a bit of this model on future scratch builds  - maybe change the hair at some point but based on the number of hours not something to be attempted lightly.

 

 

 

 

 

[Srenner]

[Srenner]

This is the 3d print from my 4k printer. And comparison with the corel kit figure head. The scale looks weird. Maybe I can make mine a wee bit bigger which will help the print. And I broke the hunting horn off... thats ok... I can print another one.

[Gregory]

Big improvement over the original.  I would check the size against the plans and scale it accordingly.  It is definitely a bit 'wee' compared to the original.

[Srenner]

I upscaled Mrs greyhound and printed off again. The hunting horn broke off a second time so I am considering a different shape of the horn. 

 

The other thing is should there be a gap between the figurehead and the timber behind like the picture below or do I need to fill that in with some more timber like she is stuck to the prow of the boat? What's everyone's opinion on that? I could also fill in some of the gap with the head board

Edited January 8 by Srenner

[Gregory]

Size looks good.

 

Have you thought about making the horn as a separate piece?  Maybe from wood.

[ccoyle]

Whoa! The Corel figurehead looks like their mold has been used a few too many times -- or maybe the mold maker was having a little of that Italian vino when he made it. 😬

[Gregory]

8 hours ago, Srenner said:

he other thing is should there be a gap between the figurehead and the timber behind like the picture below

I think the figurehead should sit further back with the stem protruding between the legs.

 

 

Something like you see on Winchelsea 

 

 

Here's one of Amazon.

[Srenner]

So I am quite a long way towards solving the head rail and figure head junction. I have tried to print the head rail out in one piece but print failed yesterday after a six hour print.

 

So I have split it in half and will print the left and right sides as two pieces to see if that helps - printing out now for another six hours..

 

In the mean time I am pressing on with other parts difficult to do in wood. The stairs to the quarter deck, the quarter deck rail, other scrolls and I will do some channel hangers or knees. I think the 1720s the channels were supported by inverted knees - too early for a iron support so would have been wood.

[Srenner]

Don't you hate it when your print in 95% great but it needs a few tweaks? I've been practicing the paint colours. Blue and yellow or black and yellow? 

[Srenner]

I'm pretty happy with how the stairway and the quarter deck rail have come out. At 1/100 scale it loses some size but still happy with the detailing 

[Srenner]

Okay so on this day I've done my final final print of miss greyhound. Overall the pose she has, the clothes, the hair, the hunting horn are all 100% dreamed up. The phrazon 8k resin does a great job of picking out detail at 20 degrees centigrade. No need to heat the resin in summer.

 

If I had my time again I would put all the ship front end into the model and make sure she integrates well.... she is riding right on the front and I would have liked her a little inset but thems the breaks.

 

A few you tube tutorials on miniatures painting I will also so as it's very hard to do a professional job and easy to do a sloppy attempt so taking my time to make it look ok.

[Srenner]

I've been reading up about the belaying plan of 20 gun frigates in the Lee's book mainly and run into fundamental problem with this kit build. The number of deadeyes per channel 1719 20 gun according to Lee's is 9 on foremast,  10 on main and 4 on mizzen. But the kit only provides enough deadeyes and precut channels for 6 on fore, 7 on main and 3 on mizzen

 

It seems there is a hell of a lot of rigging missing but there isn't enough deadeyes provided to scratch build more. So what do you do? Purchase more  deadeyes, scratch build new channels and be correct or just go with the flow for the rigging plan provided by Coral?

[Gregory]

The figurehead looks great..

 

I would keep it simple and go with the kit plans..  It makes for a nice looking model.

[Srenner]

In the spirit of cracking on I am tackling the channels now and just going with the kit supplied chain plates.

 

Did some plastic inverted knee channel supports. And also went with the placement of the channels from the kit even though aren't they supposed to be above the gun ports by 1720?

 

BTW new mobile samsung s24 with 200 MB camera... seems to take a nice picture

[Srenner]

finally got back to the model and going to print the barrels up - armstrong pattern 6 pound 84 long with the george 2 cypher 1727 - close enough for 1/100th scale.

 

and slightly better than the barrels from the kit.

 

Edited February 25 by Srenner