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Posted
Hi all. Seeking some advice on planking. I just purchased the Billings Calypso (1:45). It comes with a plastic hull. For "authenticity" purposes I am thinking of actually wood planking the hull by covering the plastic with wood. I have three questions:
  1. I am not familiar with 1:45 so what would the correct widths and lengths of most of the planking be for this scale.
  2. Near the bow and the bottom of the ship it will make sense to keep the plastic. What material would you use the make for a smooth and seamless transition from the wood to plastic?
  3. Any additional tips?
Thank you so much for your insights.
Posted

  After poking around I found two images (one above the other) that appear to show that wooden framing was 'skinned' in steel (by the looks of the rusting patterns) ... perhaps this is why the Billings kit has a plastic hull - after all, the metal was painted and there would be no plank or grain marks.  There seem to be slight bumps where fasteners of some type attach the metal skin to the internal ribs.  Check out the available build on MSW, and builders seem to use the material provided (with all sorts of enhancements for equipment on deck, etc.). 

 

 

image.png.63e70e9bbc680ebaea8eb7d1f60d96d8.png

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

Posted

It seems that the original YMS hulls were wood framed and planked because if they were steel, they would probably only sweep one mine.   It makes sense that when civilian, steel would replace the wood planking.

 

I predict that:

Unless you wish to represent the WWII BYMS-26 version, wooden planking would not be "authentic" at all.

You will find that mixing plastic with wood will prove to be way more trouble than it is worth.

 

I suggest that you build the kit as designed.  A primary focus with plastic is in the finish. 

The finish is mostly an afterthought with a wood based model of a vessel older than 1860.

 

If your previous experience is with plastic kits,  you may find that you have an unrealistic expectation for what wooden kits instructions provide as far as HOW to do the job.  They are obligated to supply the WHAT to do information.

If you have a hankering for working with wood,  a wise entryway is one of the Bluejacket beginner kits or the 3 vessel beginner series from Model Shipways - except that the ME owner has chosen to have an affair with skunks and has a major stink at present.

 

 

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)

If you want to add wood grain, I would recommend using wood grain contact paper.  

 

That’s what I’ve been “planking” my card models with.

 

There are also specialized wood grain foils sold for card modelers.

 

Most are self adhesive and would avoid the issue of adhering wood to plastic.

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building:

1:200 Russian Battleship Oryol (Orel card kit)

1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)

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