HMS Granado by Mozartman - CAF - Full hull build

[Mozartman]

At last time to get started. HMS Granado full kit by CAF. There has been much discussion about kits and cost etc and yes in the UK, total is over £1000.00 but looking at all the parts supplied and remember all of the work gone in to produce the kit then in my opinion it’s worth it. Box 1 arrived in a week, that's good, no damage.
Wood looks good with a slight variated in colour remember this is a natural product and will have colour variations. The instructions are in pictograph form with the odd text and quite understandable (it is helpful if you understand ship terms and building. Anatomy of Ships, Model shipwright, SeaWatch books SOS plus others are a good source of information & knowledge. There is a good video series on the HMS Thorn from the Swann practicum model built by K Kenny, a 1/48 scratch built model.
1/48 is the scale used for the old Navy board models in the UK with ships built with metric (France, Spain, Sweden etc) were 1/50. So CAF use 1/48 for the kit, this means a good level of detail can be achieved even by beginners like me.

[Mozartman]

The subject of caulking has also had many discussions but I show my test piece. On the right is H6 pencil rubbed on the edge with ordinary glue (Titebond II) used, next black Crape paper, then black paper about 0.1 mm this would give a caulking of 4.8 mm or just under 1/4" for non decks I think this is fine a hint of caulking but not over powering. For decks I think a bit thicker (may go over to HMS Victory and measure there deck caulking) unless any body knows already. Each plank Beech is 15mm or just under 5/8" Can not decide if to give the impression of taring between the pieces of the stem post & stern post as I have seen models with included or not included. Any thought anybody

[Mozartman]

With any model the first thing is the base. I have decided to use a portable base as the model may get moved space is a little tight. Found a good board but added extra battens underneath to give extra rigidity. Started by gluing C4 C5 & C6 together then once dry added the first of the top layer C1. This C1 was slightly warped, glued it down clamped down overnight and perfect. Added C2 then C3 to give a straight completed base.

The Keel
In the instructions there is a hint in pictures of a false keel yet construction within the building frame has no direct reference to a false keel. So once the keel, stem & stern post are complete may introduce a false keel unless I find reference to it in box 2 or 3 which have now arrived

[Mozartman]

Started with the stem, The lower parts upto the split all fitted really well just a little bit of sanding needed. I am not going to do the hull in the upper and lower parts and do not like the line showing where the split will be so decided to modify. Using bits left over,. made the following, just to reshape.

[Beef Wellington]

Glad you've started a build log MM, this is a particularly intriguing kit.  Look forward to seeing your progress.

[Mozartman]

Final profile not perfect as taken a little bit much off in one place.

[Mozartman]

The stern post does not require any mods and again fits together well. The only point to note for any part that is 2 or more parts that form a laminate is when gluing together make sure they are in line as when sanding could result in taking more off than just the laser burn.

Edited January 1, 2023 by Mozartman
Forgot a photo

[Mozartman]

On a real ship there is fitted a "False Keel" this as you know is protective stip under the keel, this can be replaced if damaged rather than the keel itself, it also protected the bots that hold the parts of the keel. Sone kit manufacturer use the term false keel as the ply backbone that all the ply frames are assembled on.
I wanted to show this feature and sanded asmall amount off the bottom and applied a strip. The affect is not bad. Because I sanded the locating pieces off the keel I added 2 pieces on the building bed to keep it all straight.

The question of wood protection must be addressed. A lot of modellers use "Wipe On Polyurathane" WOP varnish. This is just a spirit varnish (not water) diluted with in most cases white spirit 50/50. Thats what I will use. I have noticed that when the wood is anded it goes slightly darker as oxygenation takes place. A point to note is be carefull when gluing, if to much glue is used the access gets squashed out but even if wiped off quick the wood will absorb some and the WOP will not penertrate the glue to be asorbed by the wood, it forms a barrier and looks like pale blotches.

[Mozartman]

Fitting in the build rig you can see the fit for the stern is good but my mistake on the stem, not going to redo it.

Fitting parts 8A-1 & 8A-2. I decided to scan the drawing in and print an area of those parts, then cut out the parts of the print giving me a mask. Place the mask on the model giving me a location for the parts. Be careful when sanding the ridges left by the milling, I broke one of the ends off but luckily managed to glue it back. It’s on the photo of the stem but after a final sanding it looks good.

A thought, if this is your firs model then decide where you want the model to be but which way round (port or starboard) facing you. Always do the side that will be away from you and do the facing side second e.g.: you practice on the away side. One of my stern pieces has moved slightly I noticed after the glue has dried.

[JeffT]

Looking good. Happy to see another Granado log.

[Mozartman]

Section 20, Frames. Some of the frames sit at an angle (cant frame) and therefore angles need to be introduced, looking at the plans parts 53# they are made of 2 pieces, the lower one has the angle. Trying to sand this by hand for me, not a good idea. So I decided to use a milling head of a Lathe\mill, the angle I took off the plans was 60° I bought an angled machine vice £49 from well known online retailer, It is cast iron (I think) with a milled flat bottom, The piece was loaded and the angle was set for 30° because the mill was at 90°. I levelled the piece by eye using the laser burn line and slowly took of a small amount every pass. Used a small Dremmal type bit. The result looks good, but we will see when come to fit with the other parts. This will be good practice as other parts have 2 angles to join pieces together. One of the pics shows 40° it was cut at 30°.

[HardeeHarHar]

That seems like it was an excellent solution to getting the angle correct.  Looks like I need more tools too.  😃