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revell 1/96 sailing ship models


jimwood

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I use this set of Amati ropes (recommended by Radimir at HISModel). Choosing which to use for particular lines is a puzzle.

I try to use images I've found around this site as a guide and I'm sure my choices are wildly wrong but I choose what I like.

 

That being said, I do like the Amati ropes. The ones supplied in the kits I have (1974 and 2017) are, frankly, horrible.

They are made from the most uncooperative material imaginable.

 

For what it's worth, I generally use the RB-25/20 for tying blocks to pad eyes and blocks to each other. I used the RB-100/20 for the bow sprit stays and that's about as far as I've progressed so far in my rigging efforts.

Edited by VitusBering
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The answer to this really depends on how accurate and to scale you want your rigging to be.  There are a few spreadsheets on the site that will guide you on what sizes of rope were used where.

Generally speaking the size ranges of the lines used run from the largest for the lower masts and yards to the smallest on the upper spars.  You could end up using 5 or more rope sizes from 2.0mm to 0.25mm diameter.

 

Personally, I am not a fan of using the Revell blocks.

 

Regards,

Henry

Henry

 

Laissez le bon temps rouler ! 

 

 

Current Build:  Le Soleil Royal

Completed Build Amerigo Vespucci

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  Hmmmmm ...  let's see, 0.25mm x 100 (I use 100 instead of 96 for scaling, since the math is easier and it seems 'close enough') = 25mm in diameter - which is about an inch.  That seems fair for most lighter ropes.  Now 2.0mm x 100 = 200mm - which is about 8" !

 

  I didn't think that there would be 8" diameter ropes even used for shrouds or forestays - but correct me if I'm wrong.  Then again, many (including myself) may tend to use 'slightly' out-of-scale ropes, blocks and deadeyes since that makes things easier to work with.  So representing 6" diameter rope with 2.0mm cordage (whether purchased or home-made on a 'Rope Rocket' or other rope spinner) should be OK.

 

  A small 6" block (e.g. bunt blocks) "in scale" at 1:96 would be a mere 1.5mm - (devilish to try and make, much less work with).  The smallest blocks I've been able to purchase are 2.0mm (From HIS Model), and they are still quite small.  I wouldn't blame anyone for going with 2.5mm blocks as the smallest.  Thus 0.25mm thread (one can't 'spin' 3-strand rope that small) need not be sought, when 0.5mm can do just fine.

 

  The above is why attempting a clipper in smaller scales gets more difficult, and the degree of over-sizing some of the components becomes greater due to necessity.  The Sergal 1:124 Thermopylae being an example - yet photos of completed ones lend a 'cuteness' to the model when held in one hand.  Now the 1:150 versions  of the Cutty Sark (plastic kits by Airfix or Academy) - now there's a challenge!  My thoughts there are to attempt to follow the Hackney book (just to see if it CAN be done), but use flat-black beads for blocks and deadeyes.  If I fall on my face, there will be no attempt to post anything, but I likely can learn some lessons useful on larger scale modeling.

 

  I was able to find a few flat black beads at Hobby Lobby in '6/0', 8/0 and 11/0 - corresponding to 4.0mm, 3.0mm and 1.6mm respectively.  That would be 24" large deadeyes or hearts at 1:150 scale (about 240% of ideal, but no 7/0 beads are available), 11" small deadeyes (180% in that application) or large pulleys (only 110% for triple blocks or 140% for doubles) and 9" small blocks (about 150%).  Such are the difficulties of small scale, but finding flat black beads (instead of the usual shiny ones) will not draw attention to them - and they'd be fine at around 1:125 scale.

Completed builds:  Khufu Solar Barge - 1:72 Woody Joe

Current project(s): Gorch Fock restoration 1:100, Billing Wasa (bust) - 1:100 Billings, Great Harry (bust) 1:88 ex. Sergal 1:65

 

 

 

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