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Bob Fraser

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About Bob Fraser

  • Birthday 06/21/1958

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Liverpool, Merseyside, England

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  1. I feel your pain. I've an AL Endeavour on the shelf with about half the fittings missing that they wouldn't replace. It'll end up as a lower mast only model. Good catch withthe balsa , it'll give the gun stubs something solid to glue to, not much chance of them coming away.
  2. Hi Wayne. Welcome. Have a look here, there's a lot of pinned info that will help you. card-and-paper-models Cheers, Bob
  3. Go careful, you can quickly take too much off with it. Use a piece of string, or a 0.5mm length of stripwood to check for lumps or gaps as you're going. This is where, many years ago, I trashed a model 🥵 and didn't really touch another until now. Is this a double planked hull?
  4. Hi. Don't know if Anna is able to reply. Part 26 is a length of walnut, 500mm long and 4mm x 5mm. You have to cut this to length yourself, and shape it to fit as in pic 9 where it meets part 25, and pic 10 where it meets the end of the flat bottom. Before cutting and fitting ensure part 25 sits flush to the hull, as it hasn't fitted too well on my build. Your best idea would be to start a build log of your model in the 1850 - 1900 area, (check out how to create a build log name), and use the same tags as this log so that other builders of this model who are currently active can follow along and give you help and advice. Bob
  5. Before you plank, check the glue you'll be using to the dummy barrels to the polystyrene. Some glues just melt it. It may be better to replace with balsa. Fairing the bulkheads make all the difference with planking!
  6. Thanks Halfdan. The Captain has now been joined by a very stern Mate! Thanks to all for the likes. I did these, one side only, before the 4 week illness 🤢 break. Distances between were measured as per the large plan page as advised (thanks @John Gummersall) Measured the height with a micrometer - great - cut one out to test fit. Fitted - then realised these are angled 🤬 Each one differnt height. Then the Mate inspected the sternmost post. His comment was "a bit of a tight squeeze there!" He also inspected the stairwell fence for height. said it was "fair enough" Looking at sorting an easier way of putting a slit into the beams to sit the brass etch into. May be a while before another update, decorating the son's bedroom. Cheers, Bob
  7. It looks like step 15 in the booklet shows the proper placement. Pic from @toms10 These should be shown on the A4 sheets that show all the cutouts from plywood? Sometimes these parts look like throw aways after a larger piece has been removed, as I've found. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one 🙁. Bob
  8. Hi Treesqueak Have a look at Toms10s build. It shows where and what these pieces are for. Maybe ask him about them? It also looks as if he has an English copy of the instructions too!
  9. I see what you mean, you'll need to cut out the window parts and put the plastic ones in their place, keeping the rest of the metal stern. Go careful and slowly! Like Backer, scored lines and black paint on plastic sheet is how I did the Mississippi windows in simple square windows. Or you'll need to make the inner window frames and use something like Microscale Micro Krystal Klear (other products available!) to fill in the gaps. Don't forget you'll need to put a colour wash behind them to show them off. I recall some doing black or dark blue behind the panes. Enjoy the "freestyling". Bob
  10. Hi, They really are! Oh, and welcome from across the Pond Bob
  11. From over the Pond, a scouse welcome. Bob
  12. Hi Teetree. Simply put - especially for me - The bottoms don't line up because of the way the hull is designed, you'll see this in the pictures. The tops line up decause that's where the deck lies. I completely messed up my first attempt 40 years ago and gave up until recently - no internet for help back then! Have a read of these tutorials Hull and Planking Lots of info there. [Also I would suggest starting a build log in the 1751 - 1800 area. Loads of help and advice to be gained by that. Read this on how to name your log too! Naming your log] Edit - see you've already done this! Bob
  13. Two others that come up are "The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships" by Longridge, and "18th Century Rigs and Rigging" by Mardquart although Lees covers this and a wider time period. "Building Plank on Frame Ship Models" by McCarthy, books by Keith Julier and Scott Robertson have lots of general info and particular model info depending on the book - should be reasonably priced, and then if you have a particular ship in mind, the "Anatomy of the Ship" book for it will help with the details. Forgot to add - "The Sloop of War 1650 - 1763" by Ian McLaughlan I found it a great reference for research on these smaller unrated ships.
  14. @shipmanI have all of Lou's photos, but they are copyright him, so I'm not sure about being able to share them. They are a total of 1.4Gb, around 12Mb each. Unfortunately the link shared in his original post is no longer working. I know he last logged on April this year, so maybe PM him to ask if he has an updated link? From the pics in the 1957 pamphlet it seems the roof colours changed over the years, wood, white, or white edged wood, as did the deckhouses themselves, all wood, or wood with white panelling. The boat chocks always seem to be white though. So again, whatever way you decide to go, it's right for part of her life. Have you seen rwiederrich's build of her as the Ferreira?
  15. Hi Halfdan, I think it's meant to be a lion. The Admiralty passed several edicts about paint and figureheads. The basic RN figurehead was the rampant lion, and even this was "banned" from the lower rates during the mid 1700s because of the cost. If a captain wanted fancy paintwork, scrolls and figureheads he had to pay out of his own pocket. From the RMG Website, good description given. Figurehead Looking good though! Cheers, Bob

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