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Posted

After all the hyjinks with the Jylland I remembered I had another Billings Boats model in the cabinet of doom.  Started 25-30 years ago on a kitchen table it had been set aside due to issues (mostly created by me) that I didn't know how to proceed with.  I pulled the box out and bare bones inner hull assembly.

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A mixed media kit (as Billings are apt to be) but a smart looking ship.  I shouldn't but decided to do a parallel build with the Jylland.

 

The issues that had stopped me where 4 fold:

1.  I had clamped the keel so hard I had introduced a rather severe hogging.

2.  While the bulkheads where perpendicular to the keel they had 'variations' left to right.

3.  The deck (I did add a false deck) was not entirely level (see above).

4.  I didn't know how to affix the planking to the forward inner stem.  They were supposed to be glued onto the inner stem, then sanded to allow the outer (visible) stem to be affixed.

 

So....first off was the keel.  I removed the existing one and introduced a nice straight one.

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This didn't allow all the bulkheads to seat but that will be handled as I plank.

I have high hopes for this one.  Largely to be built out of the box.  The plastic pieces give me pause but I will use this as test subject to see how well I can get them integrated visually.  -Mark

 

Posted

For affixing the forward planking I cut a new stem post (basswood - not laminate) then added a 1/16" strip to the inside.

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When affixed, this will allow the planking to fit into the groove and make planking a breeze.

To allow the planking to start I went ahead and planked the stern wall and sanded to shape.

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Posted

One of the biggest visual challenges I had to get right was the bulwark cap rail.  The supplied stanchions were all over the place and obviously not a good framework.

I started by measuring the stern step up that the caprail should seemlessly join to.  I cut 1/32" basswood to this height and laminated each existing stanchion with this

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This was a start but not a complete solution.  After sanding these flush externally I then rain a plank by eye starting with the stern step up and going forward.  There was some variation but the plank let me know the best fit and it worked out great.

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The forward inner stem was slightly lower.  I decided to keep that height fearing issues with the bowsprit and related stuff.  This pick shows the original intent of just affixing to the forward inner post.  Much easier now.

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Planking should proceed much faster than the Jylland until I hit the bulkhead issues further down.  Easy enough to fix.

Mark

Posted

Lots of sins and ugliness of the lower bulkhead joins sure looks nicer when you cover it up with a garboard strake LOL.

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Also finished the top four planks each side bringing the bulwarks down to the deck level.  Made the missing stanchion each side also.

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Still need to pair down the stanchions to the correct width and add the inner laminate.  First is to figure out the caprail size to insure all fits underneath it nice and tidy.

Mark

Posted

Now that the Regina has 6 planks on each side (now below the deck level) this ship is rock solid.  The last issue I had in the hull from so many years ago was the wonkiness of the frame installs.  It was not textbook (LOL).  Running a test plank up and down the hull it actually wasn't too bad - EXCEPT for one frame.  This frame for whatever reason was riding too high, almost a 1/16" too high.  There were gaps on both sides over this frame at mid deck level and below.  I thought about adding shims and that was certainly possible but then another idea came to mind......

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It actually was easier to just remove the frame just above where the issue became apparent, remove a 1/16" at the bottom (with some reshaping) then add spacers to push the frame down.

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I am not going to say it fits perfect, but there is meat on the bones to allow some minimal shaping and all will be well.

 

I also wanted to show that soaking certain types of planks for just 30 seconds in hot water (I use the tap) and letting them dry in position prior to gluing does work very well.  The following plank had dried for 2 hours and was ready to be glued in.  Very minimal clamping.

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Having too much fun.   Stay Building My Friends, Mark

Posted

With planks of limited width the process sure takes some time:

1.  Grab a length of wood (1 piece spans entire hull)

2.  Cut/Sand forward edge to match stem inset

3.  Locate on hull adding using all clamps and or other hold downs

4.  Mark where to cut after stern.

5.  Remove from hull and cut off extra at stern

6.  Soak with hot water for a minute

7.  Affix to hull using all clamps and leave to dry (3 hours)

8.  Remove, sand any edge angles required

9.  Glue to frames and plank edges

10.  Clamp.  Leave to dry 2-3 hours

 

The below picture shows me doing this for the waterways as well as the keel.  There is a lot of going down and up to the basement workroom but progress is being made.

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I do need to think of the mast step before too much longer.  I need a solid (flat landing for that which restricts movement.  Easy now, not so easy with the hull closed up.

Mark

 

  • 1 year later...
Posted

i was just given this kit last year by a mate of mine - where the hull has been completed and all that needs to be done is thew upper section - sails, mast and yards and rigging. This looks like a great model once finished.

 

  • 10 months later...
Posted

Things have been popping behind the scenes for both this and other projects I have been pursuing.  Letting people know I am still alive and kicking and hope to put this ship in the done column sometime this year.  This is the state of the ship as she now sits

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Planking finished up pretty straight forward.  Given it is a single plank hull I was a bit more careful in how I progressed.  Still not sure of her final color scheme (paint or other) so anything could show.

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And finally the long awaited whiskey plank:

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Yes, I still have some sanding to smooth out a few things but I consider that a win.

Cheers, Mark

Posted

This was a huge issue for me which ended up being a trifle.  The provided rear bulwark decoration (yes, plastic) did not conform to the deck angle.  I spent a lot of time (too much) pondering how to compensate.  Finally (maybe after the whiskey plank haha) I tore off the false deck and modified the underlying frames to set it right.  We are talking less than 20 minutes to a solution.

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It was a very minimal correction but reset my mood for this project.  

Onto the decking.  The provided plank separators were at a different depth size than the planks themselves but with some careful prep in gluing went down pretty straight forward.

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Still need to do the stern deck but need to define the caprail / waterway first.  Plenty of wood left to accomplish this so that is nice.

Caprail is next (along with the remaining flooring).  I do need to sanding seal the hull so that will wait for warmer weather.  Lots of things to do in the meantime.

Mark

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Snapshot of progress.  Not a play by play of everything I have done.  Happy to answer any/all questions if any.

 

As I get into the finer details I am not a stickler for the plans in a kit like this, just looking to enjoy myself.  For example, the bulwark rail is shown to be a lighter wood (like the hull).  Decided I wanted a darker (natural) look so brought in some 1/16" walnut for the job.  I have only completed the back half of the rail to allow me to plank the upper stern deck.  I like the result.

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For the trim piece below the side decoration I substituted in some cherry I had on hand.  To allow it to fit into the bow area (bending wise) I used 1/32" strips and laminated 2 together.  Still need some sanding but all good.

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On a side note, the deck houses in the kit had the location lines for the trim marked on them.  I was concerned some would be visible in the final product so actually build the main boxes for each inside out.  I like having a clean palette. 

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I actually liked the idea of putting the access door in the house to starboard, causing the rearmost cabin door to move port.  When this is shown next to other Regina's (haha) easy to pick mine out. 

 

Next up is finishing the rail and replacing the plastic belay pin rail at the bow.  My resultant hull differs from the plastic outline enough that it justifies just making a new one.

 

Mark

Posted

Ever forward.  I met my goals for this week by getting the basic hull complete.  Still some fine tuning.

The forward grating plastic piece did not fit into the space without modification.  Thought it was just easier to make the whole thing out of wood.

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Finished up the laminated cherry 'wales' and the walnut railing.  All three deck house entry ways were also finished off as well as the remaining trim. 

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Still need the skylights (3 total), which are half plastic.  Next step is figuring out how the forward bowsprit intersects with the stem head and butt joins to the winch.  I need to construct the winch and see how this fits together.  Then the forward and stern raised railing can be affixed.

Mark

Posted

Hi, Mark, Mark here :) I just happened across this build. I like the lines and neatness of your work but my eyes are specifically drawn to the contrasting wood tones. It would be an absolute crime to paint this. You have another follower, sir.

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

                         Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted (edited)

Thanks Mark, that was the direction I was headed (deck wise at least).  With the hunk of plastic on the side, pretty much forced to do some painting. 

My initial thought is the external hull will be painted.  Water line and below - dark green.  Plastic piece strip - dark green.  In between - white.

 

My unknown is the bulwark walnut railing / cherry 'wales'.  Like to keep them natural but think the cherry will have to be painted white.  Color is not my natural skill so suggestions welcomed.  I do not feel restricted to the box art of the kit.

 

From my Army background:  If it moves - salute it, if it doesn't - paint it white.

Mark

 

Update:  Wife came by (she originally picked this kit) and asked for the plastic piece to be painted and leave it at that. 

Edited by kruginmi
Posted
2 hours ago, kruginmi said:

Update:  Wife came by (she originally picked this kit) and asked for the plastic piece to be painted and leave it at that. 

 

Happy wife..... and so on. Always good to keep the CEO happy, right?

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

                         Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

With my new direction, I have continued to Krugify (veer from the plans) on the look of the ship.  Decided to veneer the outer bulwarks and since I always like the look of scuppers, added 5 of them each side for a pop of contrast and interest.  I have also decided to replace (once again) the inner bulwark supports with cherry, replacing the basswood for a deeper color contrast.   This is in progress.  You can see one in the pic second from aft.  Once I put the finish on it will pop a lot more.

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I also wrapped this around the stern.  There is a plastic decoration that goes in this location, might go with something different.

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I will probably switch back the the Jylland to complete it's main deck next.  Hopefully won't take too too long.

Mark

Posted

I can't get over how nice that wood is. I like the idea of popping those wood tones by using different woods. Coming along nicely there, sir.

Mark

 

On the table:  Endeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

                         Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70


Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

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