Failed print but also not fine enough detail

[Srenner]

Hi.. newbie trying to get the printer to go better... I thought all my mesh was enclosed and sunk onto the other parts around it but probably not looking at this print fail

 

Questions: chitubox slicer graphics are pretty poor you can't tell the details of the scaled model very well... it kind of blanks out some of the detail.. are other slivers better at representing an obj file?

 

2. I had the default layers at 0.05mm will it make a difference going to say 0.02mm for detailing? 

 

3. Do you raise and tilt the model detail away or towards the build plate and let the tree supports self generate? While I appreciate the trees support overhangs etc it still means you would have to file the "good" face or do you support the back face only leaving the good face upwards?

 

Any tips or help would be appreciated

[modeller_masa]

I had the same experience with 0.20mm thin shrouds. I consider the parts inappropriate without thousands of supporters or more strong metal-material 3D printers.

 

The sailing ship won't be conquered by 3D printers easily.  

Edited April 19, 2023 by modeller_masa

[thibaultron]

What size pixels does your printer have? The value should be on the manf. web site? Angle the print back so that the transom is at 45 degrees, and the supports are contacting the back/inside of the model. Print the model at a layer height equal to the pixel size. For example, my Anycubic Mono 4K has a pixel size of 35um, so I would use a layer height of 35um, when I set a model at 45 degrees.

 

Add a thin sheet to the 3D behind the window openings that cover the whole area and overlap the edges. This will support the thin frames during printing. Make sure the supports do not land near the frames, but do land in the sheet area. Carefully remove the supports before curing. Damage to the thin sheet area is OK, as long as the mullions remain intact. After you cure the print, carefully sand the thin sheet away, leaving the mullions.

 

When you change the layer height you have to change the exposure time, as explained in the 3D Printing thread, about 1/4 of the way down, in one of my posts.

 

 

Did you test your printer to get the proper exposure for your resin? Earlier in that thread we discussed how to do that.

 

I use Lychee Slicer, it is better than Chicupbox(sp). I started a thread on 3D Printing Cannons. I go step by step through using Lychee, with info on setting up a model to be printed.

 

What resin are you using?

[Jaager]

6 hours ago, modeller_masa said:

I had the same experience with 0.20mm thin shrouds.

Masa,

 

Looking at your printing.   For 1:120 down to 1:192   I am seeing the use of a loom to hold the foot ropes tightly and at scale intervals.  a kinda   wide loom  - soak the shroud lines with clear pH7 PVA  and lay them (under tension) across the foot ropes to bond and cut free when set. 

 

I suspect that the properties of the plastic (that make it able to be melted and squirted and then adhere to previous dried plastic and solidify quickly)   will also make it more likely to continue its polymerization reaction when exposed to ambient UV and oxygen to a point of becoming a brittle powder in a short time interval.   I think this is the eventual fate of most plastics.  But the rate of continuing reaction varies widely and some may last as long as 100 years or more.  I am betting that what 3D printing material will show is 10 years at best - and the thinner it is, the shorter will be its half life. 

[Srenner]

Anytime photon m3 says pixel size is 23 microns so that means a layer height of 0.020mm is less than the pixel size then doesn't it?

 

I might down load lychee and see what that one is like... slicer programs are way easier to learn then blender etc at least at the basic level.

Edited April 19, 2023 by Srenner

[Srenner]

There must be a problem with my mesh... need to get in there and see if I have not extruded something properly because all the parts I am trying to print are around between say 0.7mm and 3mm so thats quite a bit more than 0.023 mm... but does explain why using solidify modifier (blender) on a curved mesh piece is not a good idea if you want to print as it adds thousands of tiny pixels that can't be printed by the machine... just figured that out

[thibaultron]

You can set the layer height at 23um, you don't need to do it in 5 or 10um steps.

[Srenner]

Yes that makes sense... I did the resin set time test when commissioning the machine... you mentioned it would be less for smaller layers? The layer was set at 0.05mm for the test so would it be half the time for 0.023mm?

[thibaultron]

Looked on their web site, and it says the XY resolution is 40um, which would be pixel size.

[Srenner]

Hi 

 

Question if I adjust the alias it won't round off a single pixel at 40 micron square will it... only vertices and edges of the solid at effectively blocks of 40 micron x lift height set set at 40 micron perhaps

[thibaultron]

For a 40um layer 90% exposure.

 

As far as alias questions, I don't know. My machine will not do that, so I've never investigated it.

[Srenner]

I'm making progress... worked out I should export as stl file not obj file that helped immediately in chitubox fixing up the graphics there.

 

The print looks like it is refusing to print one cube in the mesh... its not there in final output so its one of those horrible ones where it looks rendered and enclosed on screen but probably isn't or you can see its like a tray filled in on one side only and the sides but  not the top..... 

 

Which 3d mesh checking tool  do people recommend to run before print?

 

The other thing is disappointing that at 1/100 scale the really fine detail that completes something nicely you just can't print out... looks good on the screen but the hobby printer won't go down to that level... unless someone has a 8k or higher resolution printer maybe?

Edited April 20, 2023 by Srenner

[thibaultron]

I use Netfabb to check my STL files. It works with OBJ files also.

[Dr PR]

I use Microsoft's 3D Builder (free) to check STL files for errors. In most cases where my STL files have problems it fixes them.

[Srenner]

What about meshlab? I downloaded this afternoon but man there are so many filters on there my head is spinning... maybe will just try Microsoft 3d builder as well

[Srenner]

Ok I'm happy with the basic shape now and I was mega rough ripping off the tree... I didn't care I just know I can print all the windows now at the right scale. 

 

It's fine so on the final print I will take special care and cure them properly before removing 

 

Moving on to the profiles now.. man they are hard taking svg from the internet and trying to 3d them from 2d... not easy! 

[Gabek]

I have a few suggestions, based on my many failures!

 

1) Try tilting your model.  I use 25 degrees from vertical most often.  For this print, tilt the transom "backward" (into the ship) so the details are tilted upwards.  This will make the surface smoother.  Also, the pockmarks and pimples left over from the supports will be hidden.  I have printed and trimmed supports from pieces like the mullions in your model. 

 

 

2) Try using Lychee Slicer (the free versions works well for me).  The Auto supports work very well but always inspect the supports and add more as you see fit..  I would set the density of the supports to "High" or "Ultra" to begin with.  

 

3) I think that your issue is most likely an exposure setting.  I highly recommend that you test each type of resin and resolution you print with TableFlip Foundry's test print entitled "The Cones of Calibration".  https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/ You'll see this link on their homepage:

Once you print the file this is how you interpret the results.  I have been able to dial in my resins for amazing prints. By the way, many resins will state their optimum resolution is 0.05mm and even at this resolution you should be getting nice details, However, try something like 0.03. 

 

4) What  type of resin are you using?  I have tried over a dozen different resins and have fallen in love with Anycubic ABS+ and Anycubic UV Tough resins.  I don't think I'll buy any others from now on.  
 

I hope this helps!

 

Clear skies and sharp tools!

- Gabe