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Wooden Ship Frames that were Longitudinally 'Sistered' Together via the use of Bolts


tmj

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Does anyone have any examples as to how such 'bolts' can be successfully modeled in 1/67 scale? 

"The journey of a thousand miles is only a beginning!"

 

Current Build;

   Corel HMS Victory Cross Section kit "BASH", "Active build!"

On the Drawing Board;

1777 Continental Frigate 'Hancock', Scratch Build, Admiralty/Pseudo Hahn Style, "In work, active in CAD design stage!"

In dry dock;

Scratch Build of USS Constitution... on hold until further notice, if any.

Constructro 'Cutty Sark' ... Hull completed, awaiting historically accurate modifications to the deck, deck houses, etc., "Gathering Dust!"

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi T 

Another option is to drill and insert copper wire.  Snip the end and file it to give a flat end. Wipe off any filings with a wet paper towel and the you can then blacken the copper in situ with diluted liver of sulfur.  The LoS will not stain the wood.  

Allan

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Hello Allen.

You just gave me an idea via the LOS thing! I seriously doubt that I will do this due to the amount of work it would require, but... that is also subject to exactly how many bolts would be required to sister a whole ships worth of frames together. 
I have micro brass tubes that will fit inside of each other. I just checked, and these types of tubes are still readily available, on eBay, in the proper sizes for the 1:76 scale that I seek. 
The simulated bolt up frames could be made via a 1mm O.D. brass tube, a .5mm O.D. brass tube, and a bundle of extremely fine copper wires twisted together. The 1mm tube is cut slightly proud of the thickness of the sistered frames. This tube would represent brass washers. The .5mm tube is treated with LOS and cut slightly proud of the 1mm tube and inserted into the 1mm tube. This would represent the nuts. Lastly, some extremely fine copper wire 'strands' are bundled up and twisted together, via a drill motor, until the twisted copper wires will properly fit inside of the .5mm tube... treated with LOS and cut a bit proud of the .5mm tube. The twisted wire would represent the 'all threads'/bolts.
I'm wondering if the brass tube would darken less than the twisted pure copper wire, creating contrast, after being treated with the LOS, due to the brass tube also containing zinc?  
This would obviously be a lot of work. Each tube would have to be dressed up on the ends and also cleaned out, with teeny, tiny drill bits after being cut, to reshape the tube, remove burrs and allow the next tube, or twisted wires to be fitted inside. 


After all is said and done... would the 'micro-fruits' of such labor even be noticeable? 

 

Just a thought. Figured that I might as well throw it out there... for whatever it's worth.

   Tom...  
 

Edited by tmj

"The journey of a thousand miles is only a beginning!"

 

Current Build;

   Corel HMS Victory Cross Section kit "BASH", "Active build!"

On the Drawing Board;

1777 Continental Frigate 'Hancock', Scratch Build, Admiralty/Pseudo Hahn Style, "In work, active in CAD design stage!"

In dry dock;

Scratch Build of USS Constitution... on hold until further notice, if any.

Constructro 'Cutty Sark' ... Hull completed, awaiting historically accurate modifications to the deck, deck houses, etc., "Gathering Dust!"

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Tom,

it sound like there`s some tedious work ahead. Will it pay off in terms of visibility? Will anyone notice that the fasteners are three piece compounds?

Actually more than three pieces per fastener if each strand of copper wire is considered as a single piece.

At least I`d replace the twisted copper strands by a solid brass rod. Twisted wire doesn`t represent a thread at all. The diameter/pitch ratio doesn`t fit.

The diameter/pitch ratio of a regular M6 screw is 6/1. There`s no way to twist strands of wire that shallow.

My point of view: Too much effort for an almost invisible effect.

Nonetheless I`d like to see a sample of your suggested fasteners on scrap wood.

I don`t mean to disencourage you.

Michael 

 

A coil spring would represent a screw thread. But it`s way too large to pass the bore of the 0.5mm tube.

Edited by bricklayer
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29 minutes ago, bricklayer said:

I don`t mean to disencourage you.

Hello Michael!

Not to worry. I truly doubt that I would actually do this. It was just a curious thought that I wanted to share in case 'somebody else' wants to try it! 😗

"The journey of a thousand miles is only a beginning!"

 

Current Build;

   Corel HMS Victory Cross Section kit "BASH", "Active build!"

On the Drawing Board;

1777 Continental Frigate 'Hancock', Scratch Build, Admiralty/Pseudo Hahn Style, "In work, active in CAD design stage!"

In dry dock;

Scratch Build of USS Constitution... on hold until further notice, if any.

Constructro 'Cutty Sark' ... Hull completed, awaiting historically accurate modifications to the deck, deck houses, etc., "Gathering Dust!"

 

 

 

 

 

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