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  1. Point, I just found a link to a free nesting soft on a german forum for cnc-machining. https://deepnest.io Yet I havn`t installed and evaluated it. I read the brief description, only. I think it`ll do the job. I don`t know whether parts are rotated during nesting or maintain their original orientation. Rotating them may not be desirable because it changes the run of wood grain. Michael
  2. Eberhard I think that hyw - unfortunately he didn`t tell us his name - built the winch strictly according to the drawing released by ANCRE. So there`s got to be a different way to lock the gears to prevent the winch from spinning reverse. A gear that`s shaped like a circular saw blade with a pawl, that engages at the steep side of rhe teeth, is self-locking indeed. But I think that self-locking of the winch on this particular ship is obtained in a different way. Moving the long two-sided lever seems to spin the winch. Perhaps friction prevents it from spinning reverse. E.g. you turn a rotary table by turning it`s worm gear. But you can`t turn the worm gear by turning the table. It`s self-locking without a pawl to be engaged. Michael Marvellous work on Gemma.
  3. Hi Spyglass I ran into similar trouble when I sanded a hull. There`s a remedy, that works fine. It`s two layers of cardboard laminated to the inside of the hull with pva. Note the variation of plank thickness along it`s way. Even in those areas, where the sheer strake has half of it`s original thickness, only, it`s sufficiently rigid. I applied pva glue to the cardboard abundandly. When being attached to the hull the excessive glue fills the gaps between the planks and provides contact on the entire surface. The cardboard was pressed firmly against the plank strips. Michael I
  4. Hello Carl What about domestic cheese like edamer and gouda. don`t they contain enough gas bubbles? We should return to the original topic, I think. And I think, that you`re the one, who lives closest to my home town. I live some 20 km south of the place, where the rhine divides to waal and oude rhin. Maar ik spreek geen nederlands. Michael
  5. Hi Tony You got to divide the hull surface into longitudinal sections, first. They represent the plank strakes. Each strake is a sub-surface on it`s own. Then you apply the develop or flatten command in your CAD application. This command doesn`t just project the selected entity on a plane. Rather than that it straightens the entity. Be aware, that the thickness has to be taken into account. By default surfaces don`t have thickness in virtual modeling. The development command may only work, if the surfaces (plank strakes) are straight or flat across their length. So the station lines should be polylines rather than arcs or curves. Development works best on stations, that have knuckles and straight portions. I`ve never done it myself, but I know that Rhino 3d, the CAD I use, provides this feature. I can hardly await to see more pics of your Chaloupe built. Michael
  6. Hi Ben Your second approach to lofting the hull seems to be the right one. Now you have a single surface. Before it looked like a "pile of patches". There`s no bad intentions in telling you that. Does fusion 360 have analysis tools other than zebra striping? Can you apply gaussian curvature to the hull? It shows the amount of curvature all over the surface in colours. It shows the direction of curvature, too. Inward or outward. Is there a tool called curvature graph in fusion? It`s a set of "needles", that point perpendicular to a curve or surface. Or rectangular to an imaginary tangent at a given point. The length of the "needles" indicate the amount of curvature. In your post #31 two control points are close to one another. At midships. One of the points is located inside the curve. Does the curve bend inwards over there? Is there a hollow? I`m curious, because I lofted hulls in Rhino. Finally I discarded those lofts. After having applied analysis tools, none of them satisfied me anymore. My findings are not meant to disencourage you. Not at all. I`ll follow this thread. Michael
  7. Tony, I wondered whether you installed the rear hoisting beam, too. In post #55 I found the answer. You work pretty fast and the things you do look good. I think, you machined the brass parts flawlessly. I cross my fingers for the surgery and your recovery. Don`t let us wait too long to follow your "tutorial" again. Indeed you explained the essential steps of the build in detail. A guideline for everyone, who intends to build the same or a similar boat. About piercing the hull. It`s the projection of an object on a surface. Whenever the object, that pierces a surface, isn`t perpendicular to it, use trigonometry. Lay a tangent on the surface, measure the angle between the tangent and the longitudinal line, vertical line, too, in case of a compound angle. One side of the triangle is given. It`s the width of the pearcing object. Two angles are given. One is a right angle and the other one is the angle between the tangent on the surface and the longitudinal or vertical line. Michael
  8. Yet I haven`t built the chaloupe armee. I bought the folder years ago at the annual modeler`s fair in Dortmund. I thought it was a tiny boat and tiny things are quite easy to build. Then I took a close look at each drawing and the manual. It seemed to be too tricky for a beginner like me. I do remember lots of details that made me decide not to build this one as the first model. Currently I´m building "Glad Tidings" by Model Expo. It`s big enough for the clumsy hands of a bricklayer. I don`t dare to start a build log. Let`s see whether and how it grows, first. I noticed few imperfections at the hull of your chaloupe. Some planks don`t lay dead flat to the ribs (bent frames). They`re tilted a bit. I think it`s due to insufficient edge bending. The stress of the wood fibres wasn`t entirely released, when being attached. But who cares? It`s good as is. I assemble things in my imagination, too, before I do the physical assembly. It prevents me from making mistakes, that can`t be undone. Let me have a look at my drawings of the chaloupe again. I may find a fool-proof way to build authentic hoisting beams. Let`s not argue about nails. I think that the timberwork itself counts more. Michael
  9. Tony, I noticed that the hoisting beams of your chaloupe are inserted into it`s hull. In Mr. Dealcroix`s drawings those beams pearce the hull. How come that you deviated from the genuine design? I just wonder. The longer I follow your build log, the more I believe that you`ll succeed. Michael

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