Process for doing a second planking on the hull

[woodartist]

I have finished the first planking on my Zulu from Vanguard. I have sanded the first hull after tapering and bending the planks to get them to fit smoothly on the hull. This is the first time I have planked. I had to pin the planks until the white glue dried. The instructions say to use CA glue to put the second planks because they do not want pin holes in the hull. Do I need to soak the 2nd hull planks in water to get them to lie flat? When I used the iron like I did on the first hull to bend the planks, I still needed to pin them to get them to lay flat. Will the CA hold the planks flat without pins? I am nervous about using CA glue and a plank not laying flat and then not being able to get it off without ruining the first hull.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[allanyed]

Why was the wood not holding it's shape?  Sounds like it was still wet inside.   I used an iron in the past but have gone to a hot air gun with heat settings so as to not scorch the wood.   If I remove the wood from the forming jig, and it does not hold its shape I put it back and hit it with more heated air.  I assume you watched the 4 part video by Chuck Passaro on edge bending.  If not, it is very informative.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM

 

If your planks are pre-formed you can use carpenter's glue and hold it with finger pressure for a minute or less.  The piece can be maneuvered for a few seconds.  CA also works very well for many members.  It cures very quickly compared to PVA so less maneuvering time.   Try test pieces with both and see what works best for you.   

 

If you must use pins and the pins/holes are small enough, you can drill clean holes afterwards and put in treenails.   The diameter at 1:64 should be about 0.027"  (0.7mm)  If you are not going to treenail the planks I would avoid the use of pins.

 

Allan

 

 

 

[Stevinne]

I usually use a combination of CA and carpenter's glue on the second planking. I use a small amount of ca at points to start the attachment, then a run of carpenter's glue. I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place - it speeds up the drying process. Then I will use another dot of ca, some more carpenter's glue and continue the run. I find that for me, this works well, especially when I am trying to line up the planks along the curves of the bow and stern. One issue I find with CA and the second-layer is that if you get any spillover onto the exterior, it is very difficult to remove without staining the wood.

 

[allanyed]

14 hours ago, Stevinne said:

I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place

Hi Stevinne

Can you explain what this is and post a pic or two? 

Many thanks

Allan

[Stevinne]

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Stevinne

Can you explain what this is and post a pic or two? 

Many thanks

Allan

Unfortunately, I'm not planking anything right now. I usually soak my second layer wood before working with it, because I feel it makes it easier to cut and to also to bend. My plank shaper is basically a soldering iron with a big metal bulb in place of the soldering point. I got it on Model Expo many years ago. It came with a wooden jig for bending planks off the ship, but I usually don't use it.  When placing the second plank I apply the glue while the wood is still wet and then run the heated bulb back and forth over it until everything dries. I find it forms a solid bond. 

[allanyed]

7 minutes ago, Stevinne said:

I apply the glue while the wood is still wet

The wood will shrink as it dries and could take away the tight fit against adjacent planks.  Some species are worse than others, but this is can be a problem with most species.  I have formed wet wood on the model in the past but let it dry before gluing.  I stopped this for the most part as it needs to be clamped in place and clamps often leaves dents in the wet wood that remain even once dry.    Have you studied the Chuck Passaro videos on marking out the bulkheads or frames and edge bending off the model? It is really easy to do and never a worry about needing clamps or pins as the finished piece of planking will have the right shape assuming it is properly tapered as well, especially near the bow.  A well made pre-shaped plank can be held in place with finger pressure with the glue of your choice for less than a minute and is done.

Allan

 

 

[Stevinne]

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

The wood will shrink as it dries and could take away the tight fit against adjacent planks.  Some species are worse than others, but this is can be a problem with most species.  I have formed wet wood on the model in the past but let it dry before gluing.  I stopped this for the most part as it needs to be clamped in place and clamps often leaves dents in the wet wood that remain even once dry.    Have you studied the Chuck Passaro videos on marking out the bulkheads or frames and edge bending off the model? It is really easy to do and never a worry about needing clamps or pins as the finished piece of planking will have the right shape assuming it is properly tapered as well, especially near the bow.  A well made pre-shaped plank can be held in place with finger pressure with the glue of your choice for less than a minute and is done.

Allan

 

 

I haven't watched any of his videos, but it sounds like I should. I haven't encountered any issues with shrinkage yet - at least with the second layer, but that could just be luck. I have had fit issues with my first run of planks, but I've always attributed that to my lack of skill with an Xacto knife and pencil. Maybe there was more to it than that. Thanks for the heads-up.  

[woodartist]

I think I will try the approach suggested by Stevinne, I only have the use of one hand and his approach is my best bet.