Correct cement (glue).

[Late to Soleil]

I haven't started the build yet, but gathering steam.

Is there a preferred tube cement and liquid cement? I built the Cutty Sark back when the dinosaurs ruled the earth, and all we had was tube glue. I have even read about using Super glue, but I don't know about that.

[Jsk]

For plastics I don't think I'd ever go back since I've started using Plastruct Plastic Weld. It's applied with a brush on both parts which slightly melts the plastic. The the parts are then pressed together. You've got a couple seconds to make adjustments but not many.

 

[DocRob]

For plastic modeling, my go to´s are Tamiya plastic cement (white cap) and Tamiya extra thin (green cap). I use this combo since many years and fully trust their abilities. The extra thin cement adds another dimension, as it can be applied with the parts hold together. It spreads through capillary action.

 

Cheers Rob

[rshoker]

I use gel and thin superglue. For photo etch I tack on with white pva glue, after it sets I apply a beat of thin super glue. I do keep plastic weld, Tamiya and good old testers tube glue for the occasional use where Superglue would be less than optimal. Good luck with your build!

[Jake Groby]

I've been using this for the past 25 years.  Weld-on 3.  

IPS Weld-On 3 Acrylic Plastic Cement with Weld-On Applicator Bottle with Needle, 4 oz Can

 

 

[Darius359au]

Mr Hobby MisterS Cement is my go to now for all styrene models - I've used tamiya thin for years but tried the Mr Hobby cement after seeing a few streamers I watch using it and i find it works better than the tamiya product - it's thinner but uses a smaller brush and you dont need as much for the same result ,I find it 'grabs" quicker and a small amount goes a long way with capillary action!

For wood and foams I use a white glue - believe it or not "Elmers School Glue" is pretty good and cheap.

For photoetch and joining different materials I use Deluxe Materials "Rocket Hot",(thin) and "Rocket Max",(thick gel)

[Dr PR]

LoS,

 

Are you building a plastic model or a wooden model? The glues will be different for each type.

 

For wooden models I use Duco tube cement (nitrocellulose in acetone) for strong joints that will be hidden  - no visible spillover neighboring surfaces. It will affect stains where it is on surfaces, but you can paint over it. It will glue wood, metal, glass an plastics together (but the acetone may craze the plastic). It dries fairly quickly and hardens over night.

 

A popular bottle glue is SIg-Bond aliphatic resin. It is good for wood but doesn't bond metal or plastic well.

 

If you really wants a strong bond use a two part epoxy. It is a bit messy and more work, but it bonds wood, metal, glass - just about anything.

 

For light work you can use plain white school glue. It dries invisible, so It doesn't produce a noticeable glue "stain." I use this on rigging to hold knots and seizing. An advantage is that it is water soluble, so  if you need to change it you can just add a drop of water and it will loosen.

 

Another useful "glue" is shellac. It is an alcohol solution, so you can loosen it after it hardens. It is more of a finishing and sealing coat, and it is used for "bright" wood finishing. But it can also be painted on as a glue to bond two surfaces. Some people use it to "set" rigging to hang in the right way. But is will discolor the rigging a bit, so you will need to apply to the full length of then line to get an even color.