Speeljacht by ccoyle - Seahorse - 1/50 - CARD - 17th-Century Dutch Pleasure Boat

[0Seahorse]

1 hour ago, ccoyle said:

 

I give the parts sheets a once-over with matte acrylic spray. It stiffens the paper slightly and gives a measure of protection against small spills.

A more advanced method is to protect the sheets with a glossy acrylic varnish and then lightly spray the finished model with a matte finish.
An additional advantage of gloss varnish is the easy removal of fresh traces of paint used to retouch edges. I use acrylic paints and if I accidentally smear something, I can safely remove the fresh paint with mu finger, the paint will not penetrate the paper. With matte varnish, the paint will not penetrate the paper, but it is more difficult to remove it from a rough, matte surface.
Applying a bit of matte varnish on the finished model, in addition to eliminating the gloss of the previous varnish, unifies the "structure" of the surface of various materials (shiny traces of cyanoacrylate glue, shiny metal (wire), painted parts, etc.)

 

Tomek

[Marcel1981]

2 hours ago, 0Seahorse said:

A more advanced method is to protect the sheets with a glossy acrylic varnish and then lightly spray the finished model with a matte finish.
An additional advantage of gloss varnish is the easy removal of fresh traces of paint used to retouch edges. I use acrylic paints and if I accidentally smear something, I can safely remove the fresh paint with mu finger, the paint will not penetrate the paper. With matte varnish, the paint will not penetrate the paper, but it is more difficult to remove it from a rough, matte surface.
Applying a bit of matte varnish on the finished model, in addition to eliminating the gloss of the previous varnish, unifies the "structure" of the surface of various materials (shiny traces of cyanoacrylate glue, shiny metal (wire), painted parts, etc.)

 

Tomek

Hi Tomek, great tip! Can you tell which brand of gloss varnish you use? Is it rattle-can or airbrush paint?

[0Seahorse]

20 hours ago, Marcel1981 said:

Hi Tomek, great tip! Can you tell which brand of gloss varnish you use? Is it rattle-can or airbrush paint?

For an average effect, rattle-cans are enough. These are the ones I use and I'm satisfied. Previously, all ambitious cardboard modellers in Poland used a varnish called "Kapon" (nitrocellulose primer for wood, contains xylene (a mixture of isomers) and ethyl acetate), but this was withdrawn for ecological reasons. It was applied with a brush or roller 1-3 times, which turned the paper almost into thin plastic. After building the model, of course, one layer of matte varnish was applied.
I don't use an air brush, but apparently it works great, especially with professional modeling chemicals like Tamiya. This method is more precise than with rattle-can.

[ccoyle]

I'm working on the first layer of hull plating.

 

This is why I normally build waterline models. 😂

 

 

The bulkheads are very thin, so there is very little room for error creep. Ask me how I know this. I'm not entirely happy with my work, but I'm not sure that I could have done any better. The grey, splotchy area is where I soaked in some thin CA as a test to see if that adds any significant strength to the structure -- it's actually fairly stiff without it. We'll see how it goes when I start sanding.

 

No amount of fiddling could get the aft-most sheath to lay on its forward bulkhead, some some surgery was needed. I simply cut out a short length of scrap pulp board to widen the bulkhead a bit. 

 

 

This did the trick. The sheath is on now, though I don't have a pic of it in place. Moving along now to the forward sheathing.

[ccoyle]

So, here's the finished first layer of plating. I decided to stiffen the whole thing with thin CA. Then I gave the whole thing a light sanding to take down some of the bumpier parts.

 

 

Then on to some stern elements.