Lowell Grand Banks Dory by MiraMarSteve - Model Shipways - 1:24 - First Build

[MiraMarSteve]

I've been lurking on the MSW site for years and have finally jumped in with my first build. I have been working on the dory for a couple of months now and finally realized I needed to see how other people have handled their builds and what issues they have run into. I have attached a few photos to ask questions about and get critical feedback.

I found attaching the strakes at the bow to be a real chore. Very difficult to get pressure on the joining area with clamps. I finally found a piece of scrap with a  large V cut out. I rested one side of the v at the bow, allowing the weight of the scrap to put pressure on the joint. (The photo was taken after the strakes had been glued and fitted.) It worked, but I am wondering if anyone has come up with a better jig to do the job. Another issue at the bow deals with how the strakes fair into the bow stem. I think my work looks different than the booklet; comments, criticisms? Also at the bow, I'm not sure what I have done with the bands is correct. They just seem to run free at the bow. Are they supposed to be faired in or left as they are? I couldn't find any pictures of this area in  the instruction manual. One other area that I ran into is when I began to fit the thwarts. Number three thwart was too short to fit. I measured the hull height on both sides at that point and found one side was one sixteenth lower than the other, possibly causing the hull to be wider than normal at this point. I cut a new thwart from scrap and am pleased with the result.

One last question. I am to the point where I am ready to prep for paint. I am considering spraying inside and out with shellac, then lightly sanding the raised 'wool'. Any thoughts on using shellac?

Thanks for any comments and pointers.

[druxey]

First, you've done a very neat and workmanlike job of your first wooden model build. Well done! 

 

Clamping parts on a model where nothing is square is always a challenge in this hobby. Your solution worked well - not one I've seen before. As you work your way through more models, problem solving is half the challenge and fun!

[robert952]

2 hours ago, MiraMarSteve said:

I've been lurking on the MSW site for years and have finally jumped in with my first build. I have been working on the dory for a couple of months now and finally realized I needed to see how other people have handled their builds and what issues they have run into. I have attached a few photos to ask questions about and get critical feedback.

 

First, welcome to the 'dark side.'  I hope you enjoy your experiences as you continue with other projects. 

 

I think you have done a great job on your first build. A neat, clean and and good looking boat. 

 

Most of us aren't 'critical,' per se, but gladly give feedback and answers. And you will always be more critical of your work than anyone else.

 

By the way, you can search the forum for other build logs before you start a project to get an idea of 'what issues' with the model. Just remember, your experience may differ. One person may have a problem that another doesn't.  An area of assembly that seems to have been perfect for others may drive you up the wall. And the differences aren't always skill related. Sometimes it's that one boxed model may have differences in material, how it came through the manufacturing process or other issues related to the model itself that changes the 'issues' that show up. 

 

2 hours ago, MiraMarSteve said:

I found attaching the strakes at the bow to be a real chore. Very difficult to get pressure on the joining area with clamps. I finally found a piece of scrap with a  large V cut out. I rested one side of the v at the bow, allowing the weight of the scrap to put pressure on the joint. (The photo was taken after the strakes had been glued and fitted.) It worked, but I am wondering if anyone has come up with a better jig to do the job. 

 

As @druxey points out, problem solving becomes part of every build process.  As I look through and read other builds, I am amazed at how many ways people clamp, wedge, tape and otherwise hold planks, strakes and wales in place. My motto "if it works, do it." Yours  is a unique solution that did a nice job. I'll file it away in my mental tool box for future use.  

 

2 hours ago, MiraMarSteve said:

Also at the bow, I'm not sure what I have done with the bands is correct. They just seem to run free at the bow. Are they supposed to be faired in or left as they are? I couldn't find any pictures of this area in  the instruction manual. 

 

Others here might be better suited to answer this area. Personally, I think they would look fine if they were faired a bit more. However, they don't look bad they way you have them.  So, don't take my thought as something to change.

 

For future builds, try to find other photo references for the model you are building. That will guide you on the details you want to include in your build.

 

However, as a cautionary note, do not expect to find 'the absolutely most correct way to do <whatever>. ' Remember, each boat builder has their own approach. So, two dories (skiffs or rafts) built by different people will have differences in their final product. While there are characteristics that make a boat a dory, dinghy, or skiff, there's differences within any given category depending on builder, regional and design requirements. I point out my previous comments on differences in a specific type of boat.

 

As to the instruction manual, I'd bet just about every one who has built more than three or four models have come across an instruction manual seems to miss some detail. I doubt the perfect instruction manual exists. Even when you read comments and build logs from the model designers you will often find a comment along the line of, "I might do <something> differently if I had to do it again." That takes us back to the problem solving challenges.

 

2 hours ago, MiraMarSteve said:

One other area that I ran into is when I began to fit the thwarts. Number three thwart was too short to fit. I measured the hull height on both sides at that point and found one side was one sixteenth lower than the other, possibly causing the hull to be wider than normal at this point. I cut a new thwart from scrap and am pleased with the result.

 

 As long as you're happy with the results, that's what counts.  We all have found times we have to redo something because of a small mesurement that was off. There are those who would look at something and see that it is off.  Many probably would not see a 1/16" differences (at least with my poor eyesight). The good side is that you probably learned some key skills like: cutting a new piece, removing the errant piece, and making it all fit better. 

 

2 hours ago, MiraMarSteve said:

One last question. I am to the point where I am ready to prep for paint. I am considering spraying inside and out with shellac, then lightly sanding the raised 'wool'. Any thoughts on using shellac?

Personally, I don't use shellac.  There are those who use it and can advise you better than I.

 

The key point comes down to: what kind of finish to you want.  Something flat or matte, something with a sheen, something to show what a typical example would look like painted.  I have a couple models that I left as a 'natural wood' look. I tend to look at a model and determine if it will look good with just a clear coat. Usually I am a 'paint to hide' kind of fellow as my finishing work still needs a lot of work. 

 

Again as pointed out, you have a very neat workmanship. So, what ever finish you decide on will look good. 

 

The reall big keys are when you look at the finished project:

1. Did you enjoy building the model?

2. Though it may be perfect, are you pleased with the results? 

3. Did you learn from the experience, in general as well as specific skill sets? 

 

I hope you found some of my ramblings helpful and an anwer to your questions. 

 

[MiraMarSteve]

Thank you for all your comments, dealing with the size of the pieces has been my real challenge so far.

My next step is adding the Frame head irons. I'm not quite sure what the card material is, so am improvising. I have extra side cleat material so I think I will use it. It is the right width, although it is probably way too thick to scale to be an iron plate. Pictured is a test piece glued in place.

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Very nicely done! You may want to consider sanding the frame head iron down a little so it's thinner to be more in scale. On my build, I used an index card to make the irons.

[MiraMarSteve]

I've just finished putting the second coat of color on the interior of the dory. Prior to paint, I applied a coat of wood sealer which seems to have done a good job. I think I won't apply another coat of color. I think the the second coat is pretty much fully opaque and don't want to risk losing the crispness of the edges by applying more.

I have finished the oars. Crazy, I snapped two at the neck after getting it too thin there. One of these required a scarf type splice, which shortened it versus the rest. The other hadn't fully separated so it received a drop of CA glue. Gotta be careful. Next, I'll see if the outer hull needs three coats.

Thanks for the comment on the Frame head irons. I think I am going to lightly touch the edges of each in black, as I liked the look of them pre paint, with the char showing looking like rusted edges.