Phantom 1868 by Greg Davis - Model Shipways - 1:48 scale - New York Pilot Boat

[Greg Davis]

1 hour ago, Wawona59 said:

Hi Greg, Your coppering is fantastic! Your use of Tamiya tape to define the gore line really results in a clean edge.  I need to remember that tip.  Fortunately, my next few models will not have copper bottoms.  (It least that's what my plan is now) 

Beautiful work!

 

Thank you for the support!

 

I was looking at your list of future builds and I see we share Slo-Mo-Shun. I have the kit sitting on a shelf. A couple of years ago when I was visiting my son in Seattle, I had him take me to the Hydroplane & Raceboat Museum in Kent because I got the impression from their website that Slo-Mo-Shun IV was in their possession. Drove out there, had a great time, saw a lot of really cool stuff - and found out that Slo-Mo-Shun IV was hanging in Seattle's Museum of History and Industry which is located less than a mile from where he lives!

[Greg Davis]

Today I hung the rudder using the phot-etched parts provided. The result is quite acceptable (to me):

I chemically blackened the photo-etch parts with Brass Black by Birchwood. Before attaching they were buffed as clean as possible with a Dremel attachment. I'm debating whether or not I should blacken / paint the heads of the brass nails that I used here. 

 

Since there was no explicit instructions provided for installing the rudder hardware I thought I would outline the way I did the work:

• There are specific orientations for the gudgeon and pintle pieces. You can pick up on the orientation of the larger gudgeon piece if you look carefully at the one rudder installation picture in the manual. However, the picture below may make it easier to see what needs to be done; i.e., the holes in the back plate need to be above the associated gudgeons so the pintles mount higher up as needed.
• The gudgeons should be bent to the side of the scores in the photo-etch part so the exterior of the bend is smooth. 
• Pilot holes should be drilled to accept cutoff pin heads used to simulate bolts; similar for the three locations used to pin the rudder to the stern post.
• I inserted pins in the three attachment locations, cut them off leaving ~ 1/16" and pressed the rudder up to the pins to mark locations to place the pintles on the rudder. The pins were then removed.
• Holes were drilled into the rudder at these three locations and the mounting / alignment pins were CA'ed into the holes in the rudder.
• Pintles were then threaded over the alignment pins and attached to the rudder. Again the PE scores go to the inside of the pieces when attached.
• Care needs to be taken that the pintles are attached with the correct orientation on the rudder - there is an up and a down; if not respected the pintles will not fall just above their associated gudgeons.
• Pin heads were then used to finish the pintle installation.
• Finally, the rudder was glued to the hull making use of the three alignment pins that went exactly were they should!