Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
6 minutes ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.

Know I wish I hadn't already gone out and bought all this oak, but I thank you guys for your knowledge best to know early then closer to the end, but dang I'm going to half to build the front again for the fourth time. Guess that's modeling, do it until its right. Thanks again  

Posted
34 minutes ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.

Wow boxwood and pear exceptive and hard to get disappointing and discouraging 

Posted
38 minutes ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.

what would red cedar be like in your opinion?

Posted
40 minutes ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I think it depends on your personal taste. I have looked at all the woods mentioned. Since I paint my models, I finally decided on boxwood and holly. With natural wood models, the combination of pear and boxwood also works very well. It's best to get some samples and then decide what you like best.

what would you think about teak it's supposed to be great for boats but models not sure 

Posted

I didn’t work with both timbers. In Europe lots of modellers choose pear and cherry.

Expensive is relative. You work a really long time on such a model. So the monthly costs are also for box and pear are not to high.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Posted
1 hour ago, vossiewulf said:

The large grain of oak is not appropriate for small ships, using oak for small scales results in ships that look like toys. Wooden ship modeling wood has always been as fine-grained as possible while holding good detail and being reasonably workable. The traditional wood used on contemporary models was European boxwood, a very fine-grained wood. It's hard to get and therefore expensive, so most modelers have turned to other fine-grain woods like pear, Castillo boxwood, cherry, or yellow cedar.

would you have an opinion on Acacia or teak 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, AnobiumPunctatum said:

I didn’t work with both timbers. In Europe lots of modellers choose pear and cherry.

Expensive is relative. You work a really long time on such a model. So the monthly costs are also for box and pear are not to high.

another quick question I have is the size wood I should use for my planking and my decking I'm thinking 1/4 wide x 1/8 thick I'm wondering because for such a small model that might be too big for 1/48 scale. I struggle with working out scale. Looking at it just seems too wide to be accurate scale. and do you know how long the bored should be to be accurate scale so I can have the right separation marks between them?     

Edited by James Flynn
Posted

Nice start!

 

On the wood issue: Cherry is a nice wood that's cheaper some of the others that have been mentioned, if you'd like the model to look a bit darker. Rather than buying a bunch of samples and testing them out, you could look at models on this site that you like the look of and see what wood you like. If you search, you'll also find several posts about which types of wood to use. Some say that Beech does a decent job of representing oak in scale, for instance, and others like Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Holly, or other woods. Based on a quick look, Teak seems to have large visible grain which could be a problem for modeling.

 

As for planking dimensions, 1/8-inch thick wood is much too thick for the curves of the hull. People generally use 1/16, 3/64, or 1/32-inch thick wood for planking--something that will easily bend. 1/32-inch curves very well but doesn't leave you with much room for sanding, 1/16-inch may be better for a model of this size. I'd recommend checking what thickness other people have used for planking similar models (such as the Winchelsea, another frigate which has a lot of build logs on this site). The width will depend on whatever was appropriate for the time and place--without doing a lot of research, you could probably just see what other people have used for similar models in this scale.

Posted
3 hours ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Nice start!

 

On the wood issue: Cherry is a nice wood that's cheaper some of the others that have been mentioned, if you'd like the model to look a bit darker. Rather than buying a bunch of samples and testing them out, you could look at models on this site that you like the look of and see what wood you like. If you search, you'll also find several posts about which types of wood to use. Some say that Beech does a decent job of representing oak in scale, for instance, and others like Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Holly, or other woods. Based on a quick look, Teak seems to have large visible grain which could be a problem for modeling.

 

As for planking dimensions, 1/8-inch thick wood is much too thick for the curves of the hull. People generally use 1/16, 3/64, or 1/32-inch thick wood for planking--something that will easily bend. 1/32-inch curves very well but doesn't leave you with much room for sanding, 1/16-inch may be better for a model of this size. I'd recommend checking what thickness other people have used for planking similar models (such as the Winchelsea, another frigate which has a lot of build logs on this site). The width will depend on whatever was appropriate for the time and place--without doing a lot of research, you could probably just see what other people have used for similar models in this scale.

I thank you for your responce this helps me a tun. I'm thinking of using hard maple with a erly american stane for the planking and decking and black walnut for darker contrest like trim work and for the black strip on the side of the hull mainly because both have a fine grain structure but I don't see any one using maple at all can't help but wonder why from my research it seems to be a great wood stra straight grain esy to work finer grain then even boxwood can't figure why more people aren't using it.

Posted
5 hours ago, James Flynn said:

I thank you for your responce this helps me a tun. I'm thinking of using hard maple with a erly american stane for the planking and decking and black walnut for darker contrest like trim work and for the black strip on the side of the hull mainly because both have a fine grain structure but I don't see any one using maple at all can't help but wonder why from my research it seems to be a great wood stra straight grain esy to work finer grain then even boxwood can't figure why more people aren't using it.

That's odd, as maple is pretty frequently used--typing it in the search bar returns over 2,000 results. For examples, see:

 

 

Walnut is also frequently used, especially as a second planking material in kits, although some complain that it's too brittle or has too visible grain. 

Posted
10 hours ago, James Flynn said:

Can anyone tell me? Did the HMS Triton have a copper bottom?

No and Yes. In the beginning of her career HMS Triton had white stuff. In the beginning of the 1780th I am quite sure that she got a coppered hull. I will have a look this evening.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

Posted
On 12/16/2024 at 8:07 AM, JacquesCousteau said:

That's odd, as maple is pretty frequently used--typing it in the search bar returns over 2,000 results. For examples, see:

 

 

Walnut is also frequently used, especially as a second planking material in kits, although some complain that it's too brittle or has too visible grain. 

Ya I found quit a few maple and walnut after I made my post just didn't dig deep enough, I was reading in the 

Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?

and didn't see any maple talked about in this desiccation then made my post I should have dug deeper. 
Posted
On 12/16/2024 at 3:13 PM, AnobiumPunctatum said:

No and Yes. In the beginning of her career HMS Triton had white stuff. In the beginning of the 1780th I am quite sure that she got a coppered hull. I will have a look this evening.

I had a look in Winfield: Triton was coppered in June 1778.

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

×
×
  • Create New...