Byrnes 18" extended table saw table

[davec]

I’ve been looking at the 18” extended table for the Byrnes saw since it became available.  Prior to Jim’s passing, his shop would do the install.  I reached out to Donna. The extended table was still available but I would have to install it myself. I was terrified about potentially messing up a saw that would be difficult to repair or replace, but decided to move ahead anyways. 

 

It came with instructions, but they were a little sparse.  7 steps totaling 9 sentences, no illustrations.

 

Turns out the instructions are actually adequate and despite my limited mechanical skills, I was able to complete the install.  I did not take pictures (sorry) but had some additional detail that might help anyone who takes on the same project:

 

1)      Remove belt guard and belt

This step was pretty self explanatory.  To remove the blade guard you need a Phillips head screwdriver with narrow diameter.  The access holes are small.

2)      Lower blade mechanism all the way down

Again, self explanatory

3)      Turn saw over and remove the blade

And again, self explanatory.  I was feeling pretty good at this point.

4)      The coupler (U-Joint) that has the threaded rod going into it needs to be heated because it is loctited in place. 

This is where I started to get nervous.  Loctite comes in 3 different forms.  For the more permanent variety, I read about using a butane torch.  I did not want to use anything this hot.  Turns out a regular heat gun is adequate – the same one that I use for bending wood.  I ran it over the coupler for about 30 seconds.

5)      Break the set screw loose…  press the blade mechanism down toward the bottom of table and the threaded rod should come out of the coupler (u-joint).   Once it has broke loose, turn the saw back over.

I didn’t like the “break” word.  Turns out this works as written.  With gentle pressure, the threaded rod pops out of the coupler.

6)      Remove the 6 screws that are holding the table to cabinet and remove table

This is straightforward as well.

7)      Put your new 18” table on cabinet, and do all the above in reverse order.  Insert screws, flip saw over and put loctite on new threaded rod going into coupler. 

I laughed when I read “do all the above in the reverse order.”  This is like in surgery training where we were jokingly told that after you remove whatever needs to come out, you just “stitch everything you cut back together in the reverse order” – it isn’t usually that straightforward, and wasn’t here.

 

-          I had big problems getting the new threaded rod into the coupler.  I’m still not sure why this was a problem.  It looked exactly the same as the old threaded rod- same diameter and threads.  After almost giving up, I took the old coupling rod off the 12”top and swapped it for the new rod.  For whatever reason, this one fit easily.

-          Replacing the belt guard was a nightmare -if anyone has replaced the belt and has a trick for this, please post it.  This will be hard to understand without pictures.  The guard creates a closed space, and 3 of the 4 attachment screws are not reachable from the open end.  I supported the saw on its side so the belt side was up and level, balanced the 3 screws in their holes in the belt guard, and attempted to line up the holes and get the screws started through the small access holes.  Invariably two screws would fall out while I got the first one started.  I finally got two of them started.  The fourth screw is easy as it can be reached from the end that opens for the belt.  Fortunately, the cover is secure with just 3 screws.  Unless there is some special tool, I’m not sure how to get all 4 screws in place.  There must be a trick because it came with all 4 in place.

 

I’m happy with the new saw.  I think the extra 6” of top makes a big difference.

 

-          On the left of the blade is more table to support long pieces while being cut.  This makes it easier to manage long or bulky pieces.  Also, it is easier to keep fingers further from the blade. 

-          The right side of the blade is where the big improvement (for me) happens.  I can now cut 6” pieces without removing the fence of micrometer adjustment.  I work mostly in 1/48, so this is a scale 24’ length of lumber.  Removing the fence isn’t that big a deal (two screws), but  somehow I always dropped at least one of them and had to search for it, so this is a big deal for me.

-          Downsides- The saw takes up more room on the workbench and is a little heavier and more cumbersome to move around.  It will likely make blade change a little more difficult.

 

I’ve done some cutting on it since the install.  I’m very happy with it.  I may have knocked the old saw a little out of alignment in around 15 years of use.  This one rips like the saw is new.

[No Idea]

I too changed my saw to a 18" table and I support all of what you say.  Another benefit is that you can use the cross cut sledge without having to remove the fence.  Just slide it out of the way.

 

To fit the belt cover - the screws only need loosening and the cover slides rearwards and comes off.  So if you remove your cover firstly put all of the screws into their locations on the saw but only loosely.  Then place the cover over the belt and push forward towards the front of the machine.  This locates it onto the screws and then you can tighten them fully through the access holes.

[davec]

I may have an older model.  The screws go through holes, not slots in the mounting cover.  To remove it, I needed to take the screws all the way out.  I thought about trying to modify it to allow it to do what you describe.