Jump to content

No Idea

NRG Member
  • Posts

    883
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by No Idea

  1. To be honest I have liked all of the variations of this piece so I guess it purely comes down to personal taste - Looks great
  2. Hi Tobias and thanks mate - I like to draw every strake as I firmly believe that if I can draw them I can make them. Nothing worse than trying to make major changes half way through the planking. My marks are very much a guide but they do let me see if I'm roughly on track.
  3. I've spent the last few days marking out the strakes which is pretty time consuming. I wanted to stay as close to the plans as possible and try and achieve a nice even look too. I like to use automotive lining tape as it's nice and flexible - the only issue with this sort of tape is that it doesn't stick very well to the wood. So after using tick tape and a planking fan to mark out the master frame I started the job. My planks work out to be 9.9mm wide on this frame so I'll cut them to 10mm as my measurements are probably out a bit. Lining the stern Then the Bow I have one stealer in the stern straight off of the garboard plank and one drop plank towards the bow. So it's just as the plans suggest. I had better start cutting some planks now and get on with the job Mark
  4. My build is out of square by roughly the same amount as yours. It won't notice as it doesn't on mine - keep going as your work looks great!
  5. Hi Brian and thanks for your really nice comments. You're spot on about how people have no clue about how ships were made and they probably have no interest either nowadays. I too really like the frames of this ship but this little vessel has always been a learning curve for me. I need to know that I can plank the hull as it should have been and I would like one side finished so that my family can see the ship without having to imagine it. The port side however will stay bare from the whale down so that the frames will always be visible. Cheers Mark
  6. Thanks both - purely a fluke on my part I'm only fully planking the starboard side and I'll clean up the port side as it is now. I think that this will give a nice perspective on the finished hull and the work underneath.
  7. Thanks druxey and I'm glad you said that because after I glued the stove in I could see that I completely forgot to take the shine off of it. Oh well just another of my little mistakes but I'm gradually learning to live with them. As for the recovery - yea I feel loads better but can't go back to work yet but cheers for asking The garboard strake - This was a bit of a nemesis for me on my last build but I learnt a lot from that experience. So firstly I cut the planks but the profile is not flat it's slightly curved. I only curved the centre section with the view that I could blend it into the other two planks. I won't say exactly how I cut the inner curve as it involved using a table saw in a way that it shouldn't but the result was nice 🤣 I started in the middle as this is an easy plank - The other ends rotate through about 90 degrees. I then made and fitted the other two ends - This strake is 2.3mm thick so takes a little persuading but with hot water is not too difficult. I'm pleased with the result even though I haven't quite got it right on the forefoot. It's difficult to bend and clamp a plank through 90ish degrees and see if it fits exactly. I thought that it was but alas no! A bit of saw dust filler to the rescue which I'll blend in properly at a later date. Just looking at the hull I would guess that it will need a couple of stealers at the stern and a couple of drop planks towards the bow. I'll soon find out as the next job is to line out the planking which will reveal all! Cheers Mark
  8. Hi All So it's time to put all of these pieces together and just generally catch up with myself. So firstly I put in all of the nails that I had missed and finished parts for the hatch above the stove. I also had to make the decorative rail that covers the end of the last beam. Loads of small clamps on the rail to get a nice even curve Then it was just a case of assembly and clean up. The results are below. So thats the forecastle deck and detailed work below pretty much finished. I'm a little unsure what to do next but I think its probably about time I finished off the planking of the hull. Cheers Mark
  9. Some more work done - This time it's the small office/store cupboard. It's a very simple construction with brass hinges and lock. It has a small shelf too and many angles come together for a good fit. So now I have to bring all of these parts together and finish off some of the little details that I have missed Mark
  10. Hi Chris I did mine the other way around - I cut the profile pieces and then cut the angle onto them. I'm pretty sure that either way will work though. I would also cut the dovetails into the wing transom as I have looked back on my build and thought of some of the details that I have missed. They could have all been done and the reason they weren't was because my patience was lacking.
  11. Hi Allan - I use water as a clean up but I have never successfully used water to unglue my work. In fact I have had to soak some parts in ipa for 24 hours for them to separate with a good contact point. Can you expand on this a bit because if I can use water to unglue joints I would be very happy to do this.
  12. I agree with Jaager try using yellow carpenters glue. It will give you far more time to place your planks and if you get it wrong IPA will undo your work. I know that many modellers on this forum use CA extremely successfully Chuck being one example but personally I just can't get on with the stuff. Yellow carpenters glue or aliphatic glue as its also called is very strong and grabs within minutes
  13. Thanks Mark The bars really made me think as Adrain Sorolla solved this problem by making a grill that rested on the lower bricks. In the end I just simply ran a 0.9mm drill straight through the side that is pretty much unseen and then filled the holes with tree nails. The bars are made. of 0.8mm brass - Its easy to make things look difficult when you are in control of the photos 🤣 I have now made the feet for the stove so its completely finished now. I have also made the hatch for the main deck - I really like making these as their design just lets them simply lock together. Thanks for all of the comments and likes and hopefully I'll have some more to post soon - Mark
  14. Ha ha thats a far better description of it than a stove - yep its a barbie alright 🤣
  15. Thanks Dave - If you do use square brass tube in the future you can actually sharpen it to help you cut the hole too. Laziness (thats me) is the mother of all invention
  16. Thanks Jeremy 🙂 Right I'm back from the hospital and I've been repaired but apparently it's no work for me for a few weeks. So completely ignoring their requests I decided to get on with a bit of ship building to keep me sane 😜 Picking up where I left off my next jobs are to make the ships stove and the small office. Both of these parts require a bit of deck for a base so I did this first. I made these parts of the deck as they should be underneath them rather than just placing a bit of wood for them to stand on. The deck under the stove has a layer of metal on top I guess to keep the heat away from the wood. The stove starts with a pretty simple wooden box with 4 legs that go through the base. I then lined 3 of sides with bricks that I bought online at 1/24 scale - I never realised that building ships also involves brick laying! The only tricky part of this job was the small corner 45 degree bricks. To get the 12 that I needed cost me about 40 bricks! I never really know how much detail people want but next I needed to cut the brass strips for the iron cage that fits inside. These strips were cut from 0.25mm thick brass and are 1.2mm wide. To do this I use double sided tape to hold the brass on a sacrificial piece of wood. It's dead simple but the clean up of the saw takes about 30 minutes as the sawn tape just sticks to everything inside of it. I wanted the cage to be half decent so I opted to use a plug to try and get a good fit. It's a nice snug fit inside which does not allow for the brass cage. I then marked out and milled the cage to be made - The inside cuts are 0.5mm deep and the outside cuts are 0.25mm deep. It's not perfect but it's good enough. Next was to solder the pre-cut brass strips into the plug. This can then be pushed into place and the brass can be easily folded over the edges of the stove without loosing any of its intended shape. The result turned out quite nice Finally the brass was blackened; the bottom bricks installed; the feet cut to a 5 degree angle to suit the deck; lifting eyes made and my favourite - the grill bars were installed. I've not explained how the grill bars were fitted as this caused me some thinking as they are sunk into the bricks - so how do you think this was done?? I'm very pleased with this little stove which I guess took 10 - 12 hours to make as there are many elements to its construction. It's a bit glossy on the inside at the moment but I'll sort that out before it's finally installed. I have 2 more parts to make for it which help firmly fix it to the deck. Other than that I'll make a start on the small office next. Cheers Mark
  17. I agree with barkeater the wood database is great https://www.wood-database.com/ The list that you have also gives sizes and quantity which should help you identify the different species.
  18. Yep I'm the same - I have two types of knife which are the Stanley for tough work and Swann Morton scalpel blades for everything else. There's no sharpening involved so I can just get on with the job at hand.
×
×
  • Create New...