USS Constitution by Flyfisher - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - 1:96

[GGibson]

Nice work on the gunports, Jim.  Looking good so far!  I will be watching your stern transom work with great interest.  I am just beginning my Model Shipways 1:76.8 scale Constitution build, but I have the BlueJacket instructions as another reference tool, so am interested in watching your build progress, as well.  In fact, I have looked in depth at @KurtH's transom work on his Constitution build, as he did a great job with his.

 

Carry on, sir!  Keep moving forward! 👍

[Flyfisher]

The kit-supplied deck is made in two pieces. I cut a template from the plans and discovered some surprises. My model is narrower than anticipated, no doubt because I didn’t exactly get the bulwarks thinned to the 5/32nd depth overall. They’re close, and only cost a few planks to get the fit right. 

 

 

I also cut the openings for the berth deck and masts. 

 

The only thing that bugs me is the obvious split down the centerline where the deck halves meet. I tried some obvious solutions, but it was of little benefit. If anyone has any suggestions, I’m all ears. 

 

All this happened about six weeks ago. Since then I have been trying to fabricate the quarter galleries and stern. Oh Boy! Has that been a headache. But, it’s almost finished so I should have a post soon. 

 

Semper Dienceps

Jim

 

[schooner]

Hey Jim,

 

I had to deal with the same issue with the scribed decking on my ALFRED, OLYMPIA and SEGUIN builds. 

 

Assuming you have not already glued the decking down you can reduce or eliminate the seam. What worked best for me was to place the 2 pieces side by side on a piece of white paper (to improve visibility), mark with pencil on each side where the gaps are between them and then carefully sand outside of the marked areas, i.e. where there already is contact. That decking material sands fast so only do a little before rechecking by erasing your previous marks and making new ones. As long as you are careful to ensure your sanded surfaces don't get a bevel in them it shouldn't take too many repetitions to get a tight, invisible seam. If you want you could do the above on only 1 of the sides but you might end up with a seam that is tight but not parallel to the keel.

 

Your gundeck won't be very visible on the finished model due to limited light and sight lines so the seam will pretty much be out of sight, out of mind.

 

Edited October 19, 2025 by schooner

[g8rfan]

Hey Jim

I would second everything Tim said. However, I'm guessing you already glued these down. In that case, I would suggest very carefully filling the gap with DAP plastic wood. its a pretty good product that takes stain well. Once you fill the gap, you can go back with a scribing tool or toothpick and scrape out the scribed lines that accidentally got filled in (there will be some) Once the DAP material dries, a very light sanding followed by another coat of stain and the gap should all but disappear. Of course, you can just live with it. As Tim said, the gun deck is mostly obscured and what looks like a glaring defect right now, will hardly be visible later.

 

Good luck with those galleries

[Flyfisher]

It has been a trying time for the past few weeks, as I attached the transom and quarter galleries to the model. The instructions are vague and I think I had a mind block on solutions. 
 

I had removed the machine-carved galleries at the beginning of the build,and now I had to replace them. I started with smoothing the edges to make sure it fit  I intended to use as much of the original Britannia metal form as I could. 

I cut the lower deck portion with a saw and glued the metal seashell and railing to the piece.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately the deck assembly was too big and cut into the gunport. You can also see the disaster that I made with the windows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So it was necessary to remove the assembly and start over.

 

This time I reached out to other BJ modelers, especially @g8rfan for some advice, as well as rereading the logs describing these parts. 

That meant trimming the deck, and reapplying the seashell and rails. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So,the windows are funny looking, the trim looks out-of-scale, and the shape is shortened. 
I’m going to keep these as is for now, warts and all. 
If there are any tweaks you can suggest, please feel free to chime in. 
 

Semper Dienceps

 

Jim

 

Edited October 23, 2025 by Flyfisher

[Flyfisher]

It was much easier to make the transom. I stuck with the instructions and I’m fairly pleased with the results 

 

In summary, this thing is getting tougher. It humbles me to see the fine work that others are putting in, and realizing I’m trying to eat an elephant. 
 

Semper Dienceps

 

Jim

 

[g8rfan]

Hey Jim,

Hang in there. Those galleries are tough. You did a fine job on the transom. Nice paint work.

This model is a bit like eating an elephant, but you just keep going one bite at a time. Just keep it fun

[Flyfisher]

Bowhead Structure 
The bowhead assembly poses some challenges on the Bluejacket model. There are no images (I’ve found) that show the superstructure; the images all seem to have vertical timbers that support the rails; and the details to support the grating are hidden; and none of the current modelers have tackled the assembly. And I’m not good at reading the plans. 
This became a multi-step/ revisionist approach. In other words, I was making sh*t up to get to a reasonable look. 
 

The first step was to add the top rail, then trying to use the templates in the plans to create the supports that attach to the stem. Ideally this would create the vertical structure.

 

I shaped the supports and spot-glued them to the stem, keeping in mind where they will butt against the second rail. Didn’t work the way I thought.

Needless to say, the supports will need almost a complete overhaul to fit.

 

Semper Dienceps

Jim

Edited November 21, 2025 by Flyfisher
Photo alignment

[g8rfan]

Hey Jim,

Glad to see you're still working at it. I definitely feel your pain regarding the instructions. If it weren't for this forum, I don't think I would have gotten past this part. The galleries were tough, but the bow is even worse. My suggestion to you would be to take a good look at Jon's ( @JSGerson )   build log starting at post #675. He gave a nice step by step of how he did it with some great photos. I built my bow a little different than the current configuration, but I still used the basic structure, just a different number of bowhead timbers and a different second rail (the one that fits under the catheads now).

Couple of things to keep in mind:

The bowhead timbers (rail supports) rest on top of the "knee" that is basically the top rail of the trailboard.

The grating rests on cross timbers that sit on top of the stem.

It is best to get the rails in place and then fit the bowhead timbers to them, not the other way around. You can precut the bowhead timbers to a basic shape, but then you just have to trim and shape them a little at a time until they fit.

 

Hope that helps a little.

[Flyfisher]

Bowhead Structure, part two 

I stripped the misshapen bowhead timbers and started experimenting with different timber shapes that would support the cross timbers and fit the middle rail.  The new design was less vertical but provided a better base for the cross timbers and grates. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After getting a shape that I was satisfied. with, I painted the pieces and used 1mm art tape to define the outline. 
Then I added the cross timbers and shaped the head grating. It made more sense to cut the grating and create a step down to help the shape.  Then I modified the seats-of-ease to fit against the bow.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, I used some scrap sail cloth to fabricate the canvas covers. The fabric was dunked in water then painted with a mix of gray and black acrylic. Two coats made it stiff but flexible for shaping between the top and middle rails. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, I’m pretty satisfied with the results, even though it wasn’t according to the instructions. 
 

 

Next up, the catheads. 
 

 

Semper Dienceps

Jim

[schooner]

Using 1mm art tape worked well! I'll have to remember that.

[Flyfisher]

Progress continues on the gun deck. My plan is to finish the catheads but not glue them in until I add the spardeck. Then add stairs through the hatches to the berth deck. Next up was deck furniture, then knees and finally cannons. Those steps should complete the gundeck. 
 

Catheads

 

 

 

I’m pretty sure the lower rail was not supposed to abut the supporting knee,  but I learned too late that this configuration was added later in the ship’s history, but I like the way it looks. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I added the fittings. The eyebolts seem out-of-scale and I’m dreading the possibility that I may have to run rigging through the blocks. The lion head was an after market purchase from China ( it arrived in less than two weeks. )

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I used my new Proxxon milling tool to cut the sheaves. I also made and painted the capstan and hand pumps. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

None of the pieces have been glued.  I’m going to make and install the knees first. 
That’s about it.  
Please feel free offer suggestions, advice, and feedback. 
 

 

Semper Dienceps

Jim

[JSGerson]

Well done! I don't think you have to worry about rigging the cathead blocks unless you plan on adding sails. BTW, I bought the same lion's head for my model, just at a larger scale (1:76.8). It worked quite well.

 

Jon

[g8rfan]

Coming along nicely Jim. Good job on the catheads. I presume you used the eyebolts supplied in the kit, which are 1/32. These are definitely a bit out of scale for most of what we use them for. I've been using fly hooks, which I assume you are familiar with. Sizes 16-24 seem to be most appropriate. Just cut the shank to the appropriate length. A bit pricey here in the states, but you can buy a pack of 100 from China (Temu) for $6-8.

 

Keep up the good work

[Flyfisher]

Thanks Jon and Frank for the encouragement. I have a couple dozen fly hooks in my old fly tying stash. I’ll raid those, then check out Temu. 
I have been trimming the knees for the gun deck. I’ve got about 25 and I need about 60. I am completely brain dead from this exercise. 

 

But, what is there to do,but keep cutting and sanding. 

Happy New Year to you both and all the other guys struggling with the Constitution.

 

 

Jim