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Everything posted by schooner

  1. Exterior hull planking done You can get away without planking this hull at all but I thought it would be good practice for me since I have the MS kit of the SYREN on the shelf and that kit calls for some good planking skills. While this kit is not a good choice for someone’s first build I do think it would be a good choice for a first planking job for the following reasons: The hull will be completely painted so after priming and several coats of paint pretty much all of the plank seams and butts will be invisible - so will any learner’s mistakes - like m
  2. Nice looking boat! I thought it might be a Grand Banks. There is an interesting build log of Amati's Grand Banks kit, "Grand Banks by Mindi" https://modelshipworld.com/topic/24208-grand-banks-46-by-mindi-amati-models-120/ I've been thinking of doing an RC build but I don't want to mess around laying fiberglass on a wood hull. This kit has a fiberglass hull but some very nice looking wood detailing inside and out. You could probably bash it into a good facsimile of your boat.
  3. James, I'm not sure what primer you are using but I've always had good luck using Krylon spray primer (grey or white) from the hardware store. It goes on pretty evenly, dries quick, sands well and forms a good base for the paint.
  4. James, I'm not sure what primer you are using but I've always had good luck using Krylon spray primer (grey or white) from the hardware store. It goes on pretty evenly, dries quick, sands well and forms a good base for the paint.
  5. I don't think you will have a problem with it sticking to the bondo but there is a real "gotcha" to watch out for - something I learned the hard way with scribed decking. Wood glue like Tite-bond or white glue like Elmers has a lot of water in it and it can cause thin decking material to swell, buckle or warp. If you have enough decking material that you can spare some you might want to experiment a little - get a piece of wood (same type as the hull if possible), put some bondo on part of it (just to see if that will be a problem), sand it smooth and then pencil in an area on the top of it (
  6. More Hull Planking Planking is coming along better than I thought it would since this is only my 2nd planking job and the last one was about 15 years ago. The instructions call for making the Garboard planks from a template but that implies having some thing to copy, which there is not. I found some mahogany strips in my stash that are wider than the kit planks and just a little thicker so they will be noticeable even though they will be painted. I read up on various build logs an shaped them as best as possible. I noticed on Chuck Passaro’s gro
  7. Gahm, Wonderful work! I've got the Syren on the shelf and am noting those build logs worth emulating and yours is sure one of them! Question about the carronades - are they kit-supplied or after market from BlueJacket or Caldercraft ? The ones in my kit are way too skinny. Thanks and keep up the good work!
  8. Bulwark planking The planking from the wales up to the top of the bulwarks is completed. This section was very easy to plank and without the need to figure out butt locations each strake went on as a single plank. Since I will be handling the hull a lot while planking the rest it I decided to hold off on reopening the gun ports - less chance of getting a plank end snagged on my clothes. Next up I’m going to try to make a template for the garboard strake and then put those in place.
  9. Hi Thunder, The box says she was built in 1777 but I think they got they wrong by a century. There was a frigate Alliance built in 1777 but she doesn't look anything like this. The second Alliance was built in 1877 as a gunboat and is a very close match for you kit, including the smokestack, and as the kit box says she spent quite a few years as a training ship You can Google USS Alliance and see photos or drawings of both ships. I have never heard of Pyro before but it looks like an interesting build. Good luck with her. By the way, the photos of your complet
  10. Start of hull planking The first thing I put on were the wales. The instructions call for 2 strakes but per the plans the wales are 1/4 inch high and the material provided is 1/4 inch so at some point the wood strip provided must have changed from 1/8” to 1/4”. I checked my spare parts bin and found some 1/8” of the right thickness and I went with that since it is much easier to edge-bend 1/8 than 1/4. As it worked out, I did not need to heat or soak the wale strips to get them around the bow. Next up I did the counter earlier than the instructions call for
  11. Planking preps There were a couple of things I needed to take care of before starting the planking. I deepened the rabbets on the stem and sternpost so they will hold the plank ends. Using the gun ports as references I marked the location for the top of the wales and the height of the bulwarks to match the plans. For the hull I received, the bow area was right on, the waist needed to come down a little, 1/4” or less, and the aft most 2” needed to come up just a little - something I had already added and then ended up removing most of it. The final item was somethi
  12. Finishing up the gun ports After filing 3 or 4 a day I finally finished all 20 gun ports. I used my test cannon to confirm that the gun barrels were centered in the ports, they were - almost. There was still a small “shelf” of wood right at the base of the ports that I could not see or even feel with my finger but when I pushed the cannon right up to the bulwark it would rise on almost all the ports so I had to speed a fair amount of time using what amounts to a milling cutter on the Dremel slowly going over that area until the guns are all centered.
  13. Glazing putty from an auto store will fix just about anything. If you need it to be thicker than about 1/16" then you need to put in on in several thin layers, allowing each to dry. A one-time thick application may not dry properly inside and will not harden.
  14. One trick for filling small cracks is to use white (or Elmer's) glue. It has the strange property that if you are filling in a small crack or gap, say between a deck and a vertical bulkhead, the glue not only fills the gap but it tricks the eye into not even seeing the filled crack even though the glue dries transparent. That has really saved me a couple of times where I had 2 surfaces painted different colors that would have been tough to tape off and paint - white glue made the problem invisible1
  15. Laying out the gun ports I’ve been spending a LOT of time measuring, marking, comparing, erasing, remeasuring, etc, etc, etc as I’ve tried to figure out where the gun ports are supposed to go. It’s no surprise to anyone on this site that one of the great things about working with wood is that there are few unrecoverable errors but getting the gun ports wrong on a model of this size might be one of them so that is why I have been doing all the ruminating. In the process of figuring out where the gun ports go I also dry-fitted the PE transom and figured out I would need t
  16. Thanks Hank and Jaager, good info! Hank - Nice build of the AVS, that was my first (and only) planking build, hopefully I'll remember enough from it to get me through this build. Tim
  17. Good point, mine is 1:96 so from 100 ft away I would not expect to see plank seams. Thanks
  18. I'm working on a 1775 vessel that was built too early to be coppered. All the models I've seen of ship's of that period show a white coating below the waterline which I assume is some sort of white lead to combat worms and other destructive organisms. My question is: In order to accurately represent that underwater coating should I assume it was put on so thick that individual planks were not really visible and therefore I should use filler on my completed planking in that area so that I will have a smooth finish. Most builds I've seen seem to have smooth, off-white underwater hull
  19. I was hoping someone would start a build log for this kit - I've always thought it was one of the nicest looking models available
  20. Thinning the bulwarks This is the step that I have been dreading, I’ve never had to do it before on any of my builds and I’m not very good with chisels so the thought of having to reduce the bulwarks by about 80% to only 3/32” thickness almost kept me from buying this kit. The instructions go thru the same process for thinning that I have seen on build logs using a hobby knife, small saw, chisels, files and sanding blocks but it also mentions that a rotary tool can be used so that was they way I decided to go and it turned out to be much easier and less time consuming t
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