Norwegian Sailing Pram by J Snyder - Model Shipways - 1/12 - My First Model

[J Snyder]

Thanks Jim, this is a new hobby as I have gotten older and out of shape I can't do the more physical things I use to do. As I said in my intro I want to make a series of models of the sloop I helped build in the 1970s and this is good practice for that. I am debating whether to build the Model Shipways Lobster Smack or jump right in to working on the Gary Thomas. The kit teaches mold fairing and carvel planking which I have done full scale. 

I guess I will decide when I am nearer to completing the pram.

[SaltyScot]

Welcome to MSW, sir. One can see pretty much instantly that this is not your first "rodeo", even if this is on a much smaller scale that what you did before. As someone already mentioned, you are going to do just fine here.

[J Snyder]

Just about ready for paint. 

The stern sheets, and thwarts are fitted but still loose. Midship knees are in. I had to trim them some as my thwart is just above the center board trunk and I didn't want to cut down the support knees (maybe I should have).

You can see in the bow I had a few small mistakes that i filled with auto spot putty that I had (I will be painting anyway).

The top of the dagger board (where I grew up a centerboard always swung down on a pivoted pin) has a smaller stop them in the directions. It just looked to bulky.

 

I may have mentioned this already but by not moving the center board trunk to the back the midship thwart has a gap so I had to fill it in I am going to stain the thwarts but is it stands out to much I will just paint them.

 

On preparing for painting I had given a sonic care tooth brush to my son in-law to modify as a micro sander. He wasn't happy with the way it worked. I( just got in from him and tried it and NO BUENO the vibrations don't move in the correct direction or far enough. He bought a MicroLux sander that I will use. He prints game characters and makes game scenery (boards?). I am already thinking about what I can have him print up.

[druxey]

All very neatly done!

[Jim Lad]

Ditto what Druxey said! 🙂

 

John

[J Snyder]

I sprayed some rattle can primer on the inside and outside. It was hard covering the wood as I am partial to a bright finish but this is just a skiff (pram).

I stained and wiped on some Danish Oil ( thinned polyurethane ) on the thwarts for some contrast.

 

While that was drying I made the rudder gudgeons. The directions state to drill two holes the size of  the tubing in a piece of 3/32" scrap and file the tubing down to the wood for length. This worked perfectly and I would have never thought of that.

 

I decided rather then Gluing the brass together I would solder them (good practice). I cut some solder and placed it on one side of the tube but the pieces were to big so I had to file it off I think it looks OK.

[druxey]

Also, solder tends to clog a file! But the end result looks very neat.

[J Snyder]

Yes, no problem with my file so far and I will make sure to use less solder next time.

[Jim Lad]

At least the end result looks good!

 

John

[J Snyder]

Between sanding the primer on various pieces in preparation for paint I got the pintles built. I tried following the directions to bend the strap around the tube but the straps are to short to have any meaningful hold on the rudder so I soldered the tube to the back of the straps. I also am working on the tiller. Boy the tiller extension at 0.042" is not much bigger than the brass rod at 0.032" that leaves 0.005" (0.13mm) on either side! I'm glade I have a good drill press.

 You can see (in another blurry photo) In the glue up of the tiller I missed the mark of where the cheek pieces end. I will have to remove them or whittle away the end of the tiller? I'll have to think about that one.

Another item was the floor boards. I started on the rear as per the directions but didn't like the way rear board had to be cut narrower. I reduced them from 6 scale inches to 5 and they fit very nicely. Then moving to the front I thought I had made a mistake and would have to keep with the 6 inch width but I used some scrap and added two small pieces under the thwart. I think it will look OK.

 

To get them to fit the hull and be even I taped them together with the spacing I am using and sanded the edges them placed them in the hull taped together. I will do the same when I go to gluing them in. I will try to remember to take some photos of that.

[J Snyder]

I decided on the paint colors. I am using Magic Fly acrylics (something my wife picked up for some signs)?

for the outside I added a drop of Burnt Umber to the White to tone it down. On the inside, dagger board, and rudder I mixed Sky Blue, Emerald Green, And White to get a Aqua Marine color. I wanted the rub rail the interior color and I continued it around the bow and stern. Looks like I will have to do some wet sanding of those.

[J Snyder]

I don't know if I like the bow. The stern looks ok but I think there is to much color on the bow.

[JacquesCousteau]

Great paint scheme, it looks excellent! 

[J Snyder]

9 minutes ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Great paint scheme, it looks excellent! 

Thanks I couldn't decide on Blue or Green so I just mixed them together.

[Jim Lad]

You've ended up with a very handsome blue from your mixture. I think the bow looks fine - the blue follows the line across very very nicely.

 

John

[J Snyder]

It's has a little more green tint them my computer screen shows but ether way it's done. I am going to let It dry some and install the floor boards.

[J Snyder]

I put some tape down and stuck the floor boards to it lining them up. Then I taped the top side and after cleaning of some of the paint under where the boards would set, applied glue and moved the whole bunch into position. After the glue sets I will remove the tape.

[Jim Lad]

The floor boards left natural make a nice contrast with the paint.

 

John

[J Snyder]

I started on the stand but couldn't bring myself to use the supplied parts. I found a piece of birch from an old cabinet and a section of brass welding rod that I will use. For the cradle I copied the supplied pieces to 1/4" cherry (I think) as I needed something thicker. Sealed in wipe on poly.

 

Gluing up he mast halves I messed up with the alinement and cant use the dowels as they are bent so I cut a piece of the cherry and will use it. 

[J Snyder]

I went brain dead cutting the brass rod. Instead of two pieces 3" long I cut two over 6" long. At least I have plenty.

I'm going to have a hard time gluing the boat to the stand. Here it is setting on the stand.

 

I'm glad I cut the mast blank from 1/4" stock as it warped some but after planing to size it is nice and straight. I have it marked out for the tapers.

[Jim Lad]

Delightful!

 

John

[J Snyder]

The top of the stand and the mast that I thought my be cherry was of course poplar. As it was obvious as soon as I started working with it.

Anyway for the mast, I drilled the needed holes, tapered the ends, planed it to eight sided, then sanded it round.

One picture is reversed.

[druxey]

You may need to drill shallow holes in the hull for the rods to secure the boat properly. Doing a very nice 'kit bash' on the mast!

[J Snyder]

I got the spars sanded and I put a wipe on layer of poly. For the mast chafing pad Rather than the paper painted to look like copper I thinned out a piece of copper and used it as per the actual pram. After the poly dries I will finish the fittings.

The mast step hole is larger then the end of the mast so I think I will make a copper band to fill the space.

 

To block the clutter in the back I set a picture of one of the boats I helped build at the school near Fort Bragg.

[J Snyder]

I got the eyes in the boom and gaff. I worked on the oars (just two) sanded and sealed then put on the leathering.

I am not a fan of the cloth for the sail. I think I will try using silk span if it doesn't work I try to find something with a tighter weave.

 

The line that came with the kit looks kind of shiny and as I had an old cigar box from my great uncle with a few things from his model building days including some old line I am using that. 

[druxey]

You'll find that old cotton to be of excellent quality. Those oars look first rate.

[Jim Lad]

I agree with Druxey - those oars look really good.

 

John

[J Snyder]

Thanks, yes the  line seems really nice. There is a interesting assortment in the box, a few small boats, some blocks, deadeyes, belaying pins, and more.