Brass Framed Display Case

[isali]

I am trying to make a display case and use 1/2 inch brass angle on the edges.

 

I am looking for ideas/ips  on either how to solder or join the brass corners, or thoughts on which local trades may have someone who can help. 

There is a lot on material on soldering brass on jewlery sites and plumbing sites but this forum (or where ever the moderator puts this post) may have some specifics for making of a case frame. 

 

 

THanks

Ira

[wefalck]

How big is your case ? For small ones, say up to 30 cm or so long/high you may not need to solder at all. I just cement the glass together and cement the brass angles on. Your half-inch square brass may be a bit heavy for this.

 

In order to be an effective protection, you will have to somehow seal the glass or acrylic glass panes into your frames. Have you thought about this ?

 

wefalck

[isali]

The case will be about 39 x 10 x 28 inches, so the brass frame will need other support

 

I will use some sort of caulk/adhesive to hold the glass to the underside of the brass angle.

 

I am not sure if I should seal the case where the glass meets the base, or just use a rubber weatherstrip between the glass and base, In channel

 

Ira

[wefalck]

Rubber doesn't keep out the dust very well, I think felt would be better. I use self-adhesive felt, if needed.

 

If you design it that way, that the top panel rests on the side panels, you will not need to worry too much about the glass not sticking to the brass frame.

 

wefalck

[isali]

Thanks,

 

I am trying to figure out the best way to cut the brass. An yes, the top should rest on top of the vertical pieces of glass,

Ira

[mtaylor]

Ira,

 

A hacksaw with a metal cutting blade will work or you could use table saw with a metal cutting blade.  If doing it by hand, use a miter box to guide the blade.

[wefalck]

I am cutting the rough mitre by hand and then grind it to an exact fit on the flat side of a grindstone. You have to have a table with a mitre-guide on your grinding machine.

 

wefalck

[isali]

I'll probably do the same, hacksaw with a mitre box then fine tune each angle to fit

 

Ira

[jud]

Read a report about cast lead and solder deterioration of old models being archived, some being in wooden crates for years. They found that some woods and other materials, as they age will produce gasses  that will cause lead and solder to break down into a white powder. Wasn't addressed but I would expect organic building materials and glues used in construction of models would also produce gasses that would concentrate in a sealed display case and have an impact over time on the very thing intended to be preserved by the sealed case. The recommendation was to allow venting with a minimum of 2 total changes of the air inside the case every day, to prevent the accumulation of harmful gas.

jud.

[wefalck]

This diverts the thread somewhat, but considerations of materials' use and their longevity are important. There has been a discussion on this topic on MSW 1.0. You may also want to consult this article on the Web-site of the Nautical Research Guild: http://www.thenrg.org/here-today-maybe-gone-tomorrow-dana-wegner.php

 

Some museums refuse to accept models in which lead has been used, either when commissioned or even when donated. Metallic lead is not a very stable metal and will chemically react. A particular problem is lead in the presence of acetic acid, such as released as fumes from silicone rubbers. The lead will from lead acetate and just crumble away.

 

I would shy away from using silicone rubber for the very reason that it perpetually gives off acetic acid. Seas made from it or sealings in cases will cause problems down the road. I know that some eminent modellers, such as McCaffery, suggested it in building cases, which is quite strange given that he is otherwise quite preoccupied with the durability of materials he uses.

 

A twice-daily air-exchange is quite difficult to achieve consistently for a case in a home environment. It would mean some forced ventilation presumably. I think the important point is to allow air-exchange in order to avoid the build-up of humidity and, hence, condensation. In a home environment dust is the main consideration. The inward migration of dust can largely be prevented by felt-seals and/or creating a tortuose air-path between the base and the glass-case itself. I never had any humidity or dust problems in the cases I constructed. However, they were always in a properly heated appartment.

 

wefalck

[Don Jane]

Just to change the subject from brass to wood - I am just about finished my Bounty and am now trying to figure out how to make a nice display case - this is my first build so I am very green at everything - any help would be very much appreciated.

[wefalck]

Do you have a table-saw or a router ? Whether you have one or not would determine further recommendations.

 

wefalck

[gregs1234]

To make sure I was committed to finishing my Jefferson Davis, I bought a rosewood display case from this vendor on ebay

http://www.ebay.com/usr/handcraftedmodelships

I offered him 65% of his original asking price and he accepted it. It is nicely designed and much better quality than I could have done myself.

I believe he may also sell acrylic and brass cases.

[isali]

I;ll take a look,, '

 

THanks

[isali]

Thanks for all the answers, I incorporated a lot of this great advice, and some from members of our local club in Philly, A great group of people.

 

For those new to building a case, I found the following, and made the following errors:

 

- There are some great download books out there, some sell for $ 10.00 or so and are worth it.

 

- working with brass was easier than I thought, I tried a plumbers torch but found it was too big, a micro torch was perfect.

 

- I used low temp solder (430 degree melt) vs high temp,

 

- If you have several melt point solders, use the higher melt temp first so if you go back to add to that joint ie. adding the vertical legs to the top frame, you don't melt away the first joint,

 

- base the sizes around the largest, heaviest size, I used mirror in the back and plexiglass everywhere else.

 

- get plexiglass from a glass dealer, they use sheet molded vs Home Depot uses continuous roll

 

- glass is heavy

 

- some frames did,t have the brass soldered, the strength was in the melting / glueing of the plexiglass, and it seemed fine.

 

- measuring, add to the length both the width of the side pieces ( or visa versa) AND the width of the frame pieces!!

 

- Joann fabrics has great covers for the base, I used a velvet which gives a great look.

 

- practice with spray adhesive and corners , especially how to cut the cloth corners so there isn't a bump in the overlap. I used the wallpaper method of one cut for the overlap leaving matching sides. Lots of online tutorials on sewing sites for corners.

 

- a nice brass. Plaque is pretty inexpensive, and better that what comes in the kit, especially if you want more info on it, or a second plaque for the side or back with your name, date, etc,

 

 

If I can answer any specific questions, let me know. It took me about two months to learn, lots of trial and error, and please recall that that everyone has different methods, which work, even if they are in conflict with other methods,.

 

 

Ira.

[mtaylor]

Ira,

 

Can you show us a photo?