Forceps Selection

[GGibson]

In looking at the search history on the discussion of forceps, I did not see anything specifically related to my query, so thought I would throw it out for discussion.  I have a couple of locking forceps that, as memory serves, I probably picked up through Amazon.  I use them regularly to hold my blocks when prepping them for rigging.  I am finding, though, that when working with the smaller 5&6mm sized blocks, the forceps sometimes crush the block, as the squeeze is so tight when locked.

 

What are others using to hold their blocks?  If using forceps, have you found ways to "loosen" them just enough to not be crushing?  Are there certain designed forceps that work better?  I would assume the length between the forcep hinge and the tip where the block is held would have something to do with the force strength.  Any recommendations on what type has worked best is appreciated.

[dvm27]

Hemostats, by nature, are designed to securely hold and crush tissue for hemostasis. The box section is rivited and there is no way to modify it for a looser grip (that would defeat their purpose). While I've not used them for ship model making you may want to try Doyen intestinal forceps. They have longitudinal groves designed to hold tissue but not damage it. As an example https://universalsurgical.com/product/doyen-forceps/. I think the 7" version might work well for your needs.

Edited Friday at 12:39 AM by dvm27

[Dr PR]

I use small spring clamps to hold blocks, hooks and lines. They are about 2 inches (50 mm) long and have rubber coated tips - you see them in a lot of builds here.

 

 

I have a two-arm gadget with rotating alligator clips, and I clip an arm of a clamp in each alligator clip. This allows me to position the ends of the clamps close together the right distance.

 

For stropping a block to the rope I first wrap the rope around the block and add a small amount of diluted white glue to glue the rope strop around the block. Then I clamp the block and rope into one of the clamps.  I pull the two ends of the rope into the other clamp to hold them in place. I tie an overhand knot around the rope with small thread to pull the rope strands together tightly. Then a small drop of Duco Cement (or CA if you prefer) is worked between the rope strands with a needle point. The thread is wrapped around the rope strands for a few turns and tied off with another overhand knot to create a seizing. I usually wet the seizing coil with diluted white glue. After the glue dries I trim the loose ends of the thread and rope.

 

To strop a hook to a block I first put the block with the rope strop around it in the clamp as before. The hook is placed in the other clamp with the eye facing the block. I pull both ends of the rope through the eye of the hook, fold them back over the clamp holding the block and tape them there. Then I make a seizing between the hook and block as described above.

 

I make eyes in the ends of ropes the same way as I strop blocks, but without the block.

 

NOTE: If you are using polyester rope the seizing alone will not hold the rope and prevent the end from pulling back out of the seizing. White glue or shellac will not glue the polyester rope strands together. You can use a drop of CA (cyanoacrylate) to glue the rope strands together, but it dries too quickly and creates a lumpy seizing. I prefer Duco Cement (nitrocellulose in acetone) because it cures more slowly (20-30 seconds), allowing you to wrap a tight and neat seizing.

[Toolmaker]

The link is to a short one page thread of mine showing simple “fittings” ideas. Those little spring clamps are used extensively. I find them continually useful with my ship building.

 

Hopefully of some use

Paul

Edited Friday at 06:36 AM by Toolmaker