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Posted

I finished painting the hull, applying the blue paint above the waterline.

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Once the paint had dried, I proceeded to install all the electronics along with the propeller.  The only thing I'm still unsure about is what to do with the antenna and how to support it.

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Thanks for looking in and for the likes.

Sal

Nautical Research Guild

Current

Nordkap 476 - Billing Boats

 

Complete 

USCG Harriet Lane - Model Shipways

U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways

New York Pilot Boat 'Phantom' 1868 - Model Shipways

Posted

Nordkap's looking wonderful. The paint looks just right to me.

 

I think the idea with the antenna is to keep it above the waterline, and away from things that are electronically noisy (I.e. the motor)... Since the boat is not carbon fibre it shouldn't make a Faraday cage, so you should be okay having the antenna inside the model, and unless you have to I would advise not changing the antenna wire unless  you have to. I believe they are matched by length to the frequency.

 

I have always just had the receiver in a tray up towards the deck away from the motor and rudder servo. Having said that I have more experience with 27Mhz and 40MHz... my tests with 2.4GHz seem okay though.

 

A distance test is always a good idea... plug everything in, connect transmitter to receiver, and then get someone to watch the bost while you walk away from it using the transmitter. See how far you get before it stops responding. It'll give you some idea what to expect on the water.

 

Also, doing a first sail (or indeed sailing in general) somewhere where you can wade out and retrieve the model is a great comfort. 

 

Hope that's helpful, and apologies if I'm repeating things you already know.

 

Rob

Posted

Thanks for the advice, Rob — and no need to apologize. I can use all the help I can get when it comes to electronics! As for changing out the antenna, that's definitely way above my pay grade.

 

So, you think I can keep the antenna inside the cabin? I was under the impression I needed to run it up through the cabin roof and keep it vertical, kind of like a car radio antenna (not that cars really have those anymore).

 

7 hours ago, robdurant said:

A distance test is always a good idea...

Good advice, I will definitely do that before putting it in the water.

Sal

Nautical Research Guild

Current

Nordkap 476 - Billing Boats

 

Complete 

USCG Harriet Lane - Model Shipways

U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways

New York Pilot Boat 'Phantom' 1868 - Model Shipways

Posted
25 minutes ago, _SalD_ said:

So, you think I can keep the antenna inside the cabin?

When I (briefly) sailed a One Metre class yacht, the 2.4GHz receiver was just sat in a plastic pot along with the battery just beneath the deck, and it worked fine. That was a fibreglass hull and deck (albeit with patches). The orientation shouldn't make any difference unless you're pushing the signal to its limits, as I guess it changes relatively anyway as you move the transmitter around, and as the boat sails in different directions.

 

The one article I found about this (again from a radio sailing perspective) talks about having problems at a distance of 180 metres because of a carbon fibre hull and rain reducing the signal strength.... so that gives you some idea of the capabilities of modern radio control transmitters and receivers. (Here, if you want to go down the rabbit hole...  https://www.onemetre.net/Build/2.4GHz/24GHz.htm )

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Cap Rail and Main Deck Planking

With the hull painting completed, it was time to move on to the main deck. The first step was installing the cap rail above the bulwarks. Before gluing the rails in place, I sanded the edges to round them off. Then I stained them, and once dry, applied three coats of wipe-on polyurethane.

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 For the deck planking, I used leftover material from a previous build. Since the deck features three hatches and a winch along the centerline, I decided to install the first six planks—three on each side of the centerline—as single, full-length pieces running from the cabin to the bow structure. The remainder of the deck was planked using a three-butt shift layout.

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To make the job easier, I treated myself to a razor cutter. Honestly, I should have bought one ten years ago—it made a huge difference when cutting all those planks.

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Deck Completed.

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I also installed the bow trim pieces at this time.

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I was slightly disappointed by how dark the stained deck turned out. I had tested a strip beforehand, which looked considerably lighter. Still, I do like how the darker tone complements the blue of the hull, so I can live with it. After the stain dried, I applied three coats of wipe-on poly to the finished deck.

 

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Battery Access Hatch

 The next step was a bit nerve-racking. I needed a way to install and remove the battery, so I decided to cut an access hatch into the deck. Using an X-Acto knife, I carefully cut through the deck in the area where the two deck hatches will go. I also used an X-Acto saw to cut through the bulkhead frames.

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Battery Installed.

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Hatch in Place.

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Thanks for looking in and for the likes.

Sal

Nautical Research Guild

Current

Nordkap 476 - Billing Boats

 

Complete 

USCG Harriet Lane - Model Shipways

U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways

New York Pilot Boat 'Phantom' 1868 - Model Shipways

Posted

I've always wanted to try the laser cut version of this model.  the one I built was over 40 years old when I got it.  I got another one some Christmas's ago, which I am scratch building the Progress.  I'm still in the early process's of it..........still a ways to go yet.  a few years ago, Billing finally began producing a fittings kit for this model........bit I'm not happy with some of the contents.  they cheaped it out by supplying some of the metal parts with wood.

   the nice thing about yours, is you got netting with it........I had to source some for 'Ole Nordie {that's what I nicknamed her}.  you've done a super job so far.........looking really sweet! ;)  don't mind me..........I love Billing kits - built quite a few in the past.  the Nordkap and the Cux 87 were my first two wood builds.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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