HMS Terror by Greg Davis - OcCre - 1:75 scale

[Greg Davis]

I decided to add the bow filler blocks so that I could make a nicer transition from the sides to front of the hull. In particular, I don't think I could have come close to forming the concave dip that forms on the first bulkhead. Of course this means I've taken the tack that requires this buff bow to be planked!

More shaping, especially on the port side, and now very close to the profile dictated by the kit's bulkheads as I'm starting to sand off laser char most everywhere. Besides the midship bulge, there is a rough transition that needs attention near the third bulkhead from the back. 

[clearway]

15 hours ago, Greg Davis said:

this means I've taken the tack that requires this buff bow to be planked!

I found planking on the bow of my Terror wasn't that bad- that weird little bulge Occre created midships was a bit of fun though! I wish i had done like my Erebus and scratched new frames forward and aft of the midship section.

 

Keith

[Greg Davis]

18 minutes ago, clearway said:

I found planking on the bow of my Terror wasn't that bad- that weird little bulge Occre created midships was a bit of fun though! I wish i had done like my Erebus and scratched new frames forward and aft of the midship section.

 

Keith

Yep that’s an issue, looks like Occre cut in too fast! Am I right that the whole hull seems short compared to Betts’ model?

[catopower]

8 minutes ago, Greg Davis said:

Yep that’s an issue, looks like Occre cut in too fast! Am I right that the whole hull seems short compared to Betts’ model?

Would be odd, since they copied his work.

[clearway]

I think the entryway/ gunports are maybe a bit out- when i measured Occres hull it came out at the right length and their Erebus is 12mm too short as they used Terrors hull- not sure if they have amended it but if memory serves the ice bumber should be 20mm below the capping rail and the deck 15mm.

[Greg Davis]

On 8/23/2025 at 1:03 PM, catopower said:

Would be odd, since they copied his work.

Too bad they didn't copy better!

 

On 8/24/2025 at 1:54 PM, clearway said:

I think the entryway/ gunports are maybe a bit out- when i measured Occres hull it came out at the right length and their Erebus is 12mm too short as they used Terrors hull- not sure if they have amended it but if memory serves the ice bumber should be 20mm below the capping rail and the deck 15mm.

Is there any substantial difference between the Terror and Erebus kits?

[Greg Davis]

Shaping, shaping, shaping ...

 

But progress is being made and I am now going to change from 120 grit to 180 grit in order to finish the shaping. (I started with 80 grit sandpaper.) Here are some pictures I took to help me see where there are symmetry 'issues'.

 

[Greg Davis]

Debated this for a bit, but decided to attach the false deck now. 

[clearway]

19 hours ago, Greg Davis said:

Is there any substantial difference between the Terror and Erebus kits?

They used thinner strip around the stern windows which does give a better looking transom than their Terror kit, instead of lasercut ply they used walnut for the keel, prow, etc - its best to read through my Erebus log as i did a review on there and have highlighted any differences i had to make -i.e. position of bowsprit, but everything else -masts, bulwarks etc is identical.

 

Keith

Edited August 27 by clearway
missed info

[Greg Davis]

1 hour ago, clearway said:

They used thinner strip around the stern windows which does give a better looking transom than their Terror kit, instead of lasercut ply they used walnut for the keel, prow, etc - its best to read through my Erebus log as i did a review on there and have highlighted any differences i had to make -i.e. position of bowsprit, but everything else -masts, bulwarks etc is identical.

 

Keith

Thanks!

 

this version of Terror has walnut keel, etc.

[Maid of the Mist]

Looking good.  Nice and sleek.  Why did the original bulkheads have a bulge midships?  

[clearway]

1 hour ago, Maid of the Mist said:

Why did the original bulkheads have a bulge midships? 

i think when occre originally used Matthews plans without his permission they didn't see the bit where he mentioned on his blog there are deliberate mistakes on the images of the frames to prevent copying hence the incorrect hull shape!

[Maid of the Mist]

That's funny 😁  I would have thought a professional kit maker like OcCre would redraw everything in CAD and test-build prototypes.  Even a minor error would get ironed out in that process, never mind a massive bulge in the hull.

 

[Greg Davis]

Unexpectedly workers showed up at the dockyard to begin laying the deck planking!

Space for 11 strakes are being laid in a four butt shift using 8cm planks made from Holly.

 

I'm using the NRG Thin Strip Saw Jig to cut the planks 0.7mm thick. The kit supplied planks are quoted at 0.5mm. Once the deck is sanded, the thickness should be just fine. First I tried to cut the strips using a slitting blade, but the Holly was not cutting clean (it was burning a bit) so I changed to the standard carbide blade and the work is now going well - even though I lose more wood to the blade than is in an individual plank!

[Maid of the Mist]

Are your dock workers doing caulking, Greg? 

 

My workers have had mixed experiences with using pencil caulking, including one who foolishly used a 6B pencil and smudged the deck.  

[Greg Davis]

5 hours ago, Maid of the Mist said:

Are your dock workers doing caulking, Greg? 

 

My workers have had mixed experiences with using pencil caulking, including one who foolishly used a 6B pencil and smudged the deck.  

No, they're not interested in keeping water from entering the joints. 

 

But your caulking came out nicely on Beagle!

 

Actually, I've never 'caulked' planking on any of my models. Currently, I prefer the subtle look that is generated after applying a finish to the planking, especially at the smaller scales. Similarly, I won't be using any treenails on this model. I have seen some models where caulking (and tree nailing) has been done impressively well. I would love to be able to do similar work, but at this point I don't have enough interest in this type of detail to spend the time to learn how to do it! At this point in my skill development, I am more interested in becoming more proficient with the spray gun, with the soldering unit, and miniature carving. 

[Greg Davis]

Mid-portion of deck planked.

Time to make up a lot of 2.5mm wide strips for the diagonal planks - I think I counted in excess of 250 such planks on Betts' deck plan!

[Greg Davis]

First batch of diagonal planks installed:

The edge mating with the straight planks are being cut on the table saw - the rough outer edge (to be smoothed later) is being cut with the nippers as it is a little faster.

[Greg Davis]

I've made it to the bow on the starboard side - about a third of the whole job done with 70 planks now in place:

[clearway]

ahhhh the joys- brings back happy memories- or is that post traumatic planking disorder🤪

 

Keith

[Greg Davis]

One side done as well as a bit of smoothing - a locator plank on the port side and 100+ planks to go!

I wasn't sure about the color variation - client / daughter likes it, so I'm good as well! I'm going to say its icy blue.

[JacquesCousteau]

Very nice work! The diagonal planking is interesting, did it somehow help strengthen the hull against ice?

[Greg Davis]

2 hours ago, JacquesCousteau said:

Very nice work! The diagonal planking is interesting, did it somehow help strengthen the hull against ice?

Thanks!

 

Yes, from a physics perspective the angled planks would help distribute / reduce crushing forces from along the sides of the hull. From this cross-sectional plan it can be seen that the outer portion of the deck was planked in two layers, the top layer being set at a diagonal; the lower front to back as normal.

[Greg Davis]

All deck planks in place and smoothed with 150 grit sandpaper. I will use at least one finer grit sandpaper to finish he surface. The I will most likely varnish the deck to give it some projection as I return to the hull's exterior.

[Maid of the Mist]

Looks lovely and smooth.  Looking forward to seeing the varnished version.

[clearway]

Looks good- i always hold off varnishing the deck so the fittings will all bond properly when gluing them in place- you could just cover the planking in masking tape to protect it.

 

Keith

[Greg Davis]

1 hour ago, clearway said:

Looks good- i always hold off varnishing the deck so the fittings will all bond properly when gluing them in place- you could just cover the planking in masking tape to protect it.

 

Keith

Keith -

 

That is probably the best practice; however, I have just apply a thin layer and, in past projects, found that the fittings still bond very well. I tend to use white glue with a few drops of C/A when gluing to the deck for larger structures. Smaller structures are also pinned and or have recesses cut into the deck. So far (knock on wood) everything has stayed together for years! 

 

Greg

[Greg Davis]

I'm going to say the deck planking is done. Sanding with 220 grit sandpaper was followed by opening the mast and bowsprit holes in the deck. A last go over with the 220 grit and a good cleaning / dusting off prior to a thin coat of clear matte varnish. It will get another coat once the deck furniture is all in place. 

Bulwarks up next.

[Greg Davis]

Started to attach the bulwarks today.

 

I guess I'm going to be a slacker here - from other forums, I knew that the kit bulwarks are not as high as those drawn in Betts' plans. I applaud those that have taken the time to raise them up and make other related adjustments! So this model is going to have bulwarks about 6 scale inches too short and the larger ports, within the bulwarks, are not being enlarged (which only works if the bulwarks are raised). If I change my mind later, the bulwarks could be extended during the planking process ...

[Greg Davis]

I've started to add the stem / cutwater /  keel / stern assembly. This is not the time the instructions say to do so; however, I do have a rationale! The sternpost / screw trunk is basically the same thickness as the false keel, so near the stern, there should be some thinning of the false keel under the bearding line to the keel / stern so that planks can be set into a rabbet. Hence the reason I'm adding in the pieces now is so I can carve out some of the false keel and hopefully have the planks sitting nice in the aft region. Because of the way the bulkheads are formed a rabbet exists along a good part of the keel, but again there is no rabbit in the stem / cutwater region - but here things can be 'faked' a bit!

 

Here's the screw trunk / stern post being added - note, because I messed up the first kit, I had some extra parts available; here I've added the extra concave supports for the lower stern planking next to the false keel. This will let me plank this region in halves, but still have support on both sides of the planks.

When looking a picture of this region on Betts' model, I happened to notice that the doublers on this structure do not end at the same location fore and aft of the screw. So unlike the kit instructions, I tried to mimic Betts' work here.