Tally Ho by vaddoc - scale 1:12 (maybe) - as rebuilt by Leo

[Saburo]

Hi Vaddoc, 

I've been following the Tally Ho restoration and her journey as well. 

Best of luck on you're endeavor and I'm following you with interest.

             Bill

[vaddoc]

Dear all

 

Many thanks for visiting, for your likes and comments.

 

I ve done a lot of work on Tally Ho - shed buckets of digital sweat. The deeper I dig into the boat, the bigger respect I have for Leo and his crew for pulling this off - the complexity of building something like this does not really come out fully from his videos.

 

So where to start...

 

First a correction regarding the missing beam at the bow: Leo explains that there was actually a notch at the beam self that was however filled in - so the builders decided not to install this beam, probably to allow more space at the bow for activities.

 

I also fixed a ripple in the hull midships that is visible at the previous photos - one of the frames was wrong.

 

Now, no matter how much I tried I could not make the stem and sternpost as narrow as Leo's without deviating a lot from the plans and table of offsets. However, for the sternpost this is a problem. If I make it too wide, the frames will ride very high and the sternpost knee will be huge. If I make it as narrow as Leos, there is a tiny area at the stern were planking will be unsupported. So either I make the sternpost wide and trim almost all of it away which will be a huge job or add a very small filler piece - the second solution is much better and even a lot of this will be trimmed.

 

With this sorted I arranged the bow and stern timbers.

I followed Leo closely in his arrangement, almost all frames will be notched into the keel. All keel pockets will be milled before the keel goes in - I hope I will be able to pull this off as the keel will be monumentally huge. And it will have a 1 degree slope - somehow must be made.

I then made the transom timbers and the transom itself - this took some head scratching. Note the aft most half beams - these will be fun to make...

Then I made all the beams and carlings, including the one that is offset from the midline at the bow. There is a bit more work that needs to be done but they are mostly ready.

I also made all the stanshions, I followed Leos arrangement pretty close but not quite - I arranged them to lie next to beams to help with placement during the build.

I now need to make the beam self and figure out how far from the underside of deck it should be placed.

This was a massive piece of work but I think now we should be ok to move on to the next stage.

 

So now each frame needs to be extended and the deck slope marked - this will be where they will be trimmed in the end. All the frames need to be arranged on wood sheet patterns 1000 x 100 mm to figure out how much wood I ll need - times 2 as each frame is a double one.

The deck beams will also need to be arranged in the same way. Same with bow and stern timbers. Same with hull that will be built up in several layers.

The covering boards, bulwarks and deck planking will need to be calculated and of course the hull planking, the Transom as well.

 

Adding wastage and considering the actual length of 1.2 m, this will be a massive quantity of wood, in multiple thicknesses.

 

I will be using pear and cherry for the keel and frames, perhaps maple for the hull planking - or pear. I would like to use Alaskan yellow cedar for the deck but I do not think I can get this in the UK - perhaps Castelo then if I can get it in 1000mm strips/sheets. Perhaps mahogany for the deck structures. I do not think there is a modelling alternative for teak - I ll use cherry maybe.

 

Considering how thick the timber will be, I thought a new toy is needed. 

It works great - highly recommended but no doubt I will also need the very expensive Proxon thicknesser - if I can get the Admiral to authorise the investment.

 

Many thanks for visiting and

 

Merry Christmas!

 

Vaddoc

[Bedford]

Thicknessers make excellent Christmas presents !

[dvm27]

As a fan of the real ship I'm enjoying your build tremendously. Nice ships saw you've purchased. I have had the Proxon planer for at least 15 years and it is one of my favorite tools. Changing the blades, however, is a nightmare and the company could not find a US dealer who would do it.

[KeithAug]

17 hours ago, vaddoc said:

It works great - highly recommended but no doubt I will also need the very expensive Proxon thicknesser

Yes i have always thought I needed a band saw, but I have so many versions of saws I think it would be an indulgence too far. Don't Axminster do a thicknesser?

 

I have always found Metabo tools to be good - Metabo DH330 Bench Top Planer 1800W 240V

Edited 6 hours ago by KeithAug

[dvm27]

30 minutes ago, KeithAug said:

I have always found Metabo tools to be good - Metabo DH330 Bench Top Planer 1800W 240V

The thing I like best about the Proxxon planer is the ability to thickness to 0.030" and even less If I use a carrier.

[KeithAug]

1 hour ago, dvm27 said:

ability to thickness to 0.030"

good point