HM Brig Badger by ERS Rich - Caldercraft - 1/64

[ERS Rich]

HM Badger

 

Log begins after first planking install.

 

Small seam gaps were filled with Titebond.  A few larger triangular openings were filled with Minwax Wood Filler - Natural Color, 

 

Hull was first worked with a coarse wood file, then finer files, and finally a light sanding with 100 grit.

 

 

 

Edited December 26, 2025 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Counter

 

Next was installing the counter.  Soaked the plywood counter for a half hour, the piece was not very pliable so used a jig.

 

Jig is plywood with a v shaped notch, bar - from a PE bending kit, and a clamp.

 

 

Nice curve.

 

 

Counter Installed

 

 

 

Edited December 25, 2025 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Shaping the Area Aft of Bearding Line

 

Here the task is to taper, or thin, the First Planking from the Bearding Line aft to the Stern Post, so the top if the Second Planking is close to flush with the Stern Post and Keel.

 

First made a template of the Bearding Line off the plan with Velum and transferred the Bearding Line to the model.

 

 

The tools for doing the work: large and small gouges, triangular and round files, and a pattern file - with cutting edges and perpendicular safe edges.

 

 

Making large gouge cuts. Finer cuts were made with the smaller gouge.

 

 

Using a piece of Hardwood Second Planking as a Scraper to remove the chips, along with the pattern  file.

 

 

And working along the Keel and Stern Post.

 

Edited January 18 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Installing the Wales

 

Installing Wales is difficult because they need to be precisely positioned so both sides mirror each other.  Here is a way to do it simply.

 

Start with a full length plank, cut it to fit along the Stem Lost.

 

A tool like this can be used to form the curve, it’s quicker and saves time compared to soaking.

 

 

Make up a set of blocks, here I use 4 x 4 mm Plastrut. 

 

 

Next position the Wale in the exact location and secure with cloths pins, and take a break.  Come back and make sure everything us right.

 

Then install the blocks along the Wale edge with a dab of CA.  

 

Now the Wale can be removed, glue applied, reinstalled to the exact position, and clamped.

 

 

 

After the glue dries, use a pair of pliers, and snap off the blocks.

Edited December 25, 2025 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Second Planking

 

Many ways to do this.  Even after many hulls I still find this a challenge.

 

My method is place the plank, mark where it overlaps the adjacent strake, taper with hand plane.  I use dots of Titebond and 3m gel CA to install the planks.

 

First cut the strips into 2 1/4” lengths to represent 12’ boards in 3/16” scale. Taper planks with the hand plane.

 

 

Going along

 

 

Check that the strakes follow the necessary curve, basically from the middle sweep up fore and aft. Use stealers aft, and drop strakes forward, as necessary.

 

 

Use a sharp chisel and remove high spots along the edge to form smooth curve.

 

 

Work the planks with a file to smooth edges, and high and low spots

 

 

 

Edited January 18 by ERS Rich

[ERS Rich]

Second Planking Notes

 

Wood strip widths and thickness vary greatly.  Next time I’ll run them through the Byrnes saw to get consistent 4mm width.

 

This is hardwood, so if there is chipping (tearout) cutting the plank edge, with the chisel in one direction, try cutting in the opposite direction.

[ERS Rich]

Planking Above the Wale & Marking the Waterline

 

Planking above the Wale was unremarkable.  As before installed the planks and worked the edges with a file.  Trimmed upper strake, protruding above the gunport pattern, flush with the pattern.

 

 

Also worked the plank ends meeting the stem into a smooth curve.  Some small openings between the edges will be filled with Minwax filler.

 

 

Finally marked the Waterline.  The kit has a handy piece that fits on the keel to raise the bow to the appropriate height.

 

Edited 22 hours ago by ERS Rich